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30,000 miles for cv shafts?

2

2007grandprixinks

New member
I can't find the search function. lol So, Sorry if this has been covered already. I have a 2007 Ponty Grand Prix. Been a great car for the entire 160k miles I've owned her, EXCEPT, I get at the most, 30,000 miles out of the cv shafts. It isn't just one side more then the other. I'll replace one, then few weeks the other. Get around 30k miles. Do it again. I've tried every brand on the market. Always the same. It's not like they are hard to install, or all that expensive. Just annoying as hell haha. Any ideas, or is that pretty much normal for a front wheel drive car?
 


Not normal at all... Went 190k before cv went on one of my GP, 90k on the other. You leave out info., what make, what mods, suspension as well? Also, driver style, which unless Granny driving to church only on Sunday's, could have a lot to do with it.
 
I beat the piss out of mine and use cheap GSP china ones. Probably get 60K from them, which I find surprising.

Have you used the Napa shafts?
 
If your engine or transmission mount in leaking and sagging, that can also contribute to CV shaft wear since they'll always be out of alignment. 30,000 is definitely low, I've done over 50k on a cheapie CV shaft I got when I was broke, still no problems.
 
It's bone stock. There has been no modifications what so ever to the car. It is a base line 07 grand prix. And I drive I guess normal. I don't hot rod her or anything like that. I bought it new in 07. The issues started in 09 or there abouts. Hmm. Maybe there has been a broken motor or tranny mount since 09 for some reason? I'll have to look into that. I have used NAPA shafts, and even spent the 200 a piece of GM shafts. I'll look into the mounts though, that would make some sense atleast haha.
 
i have the same exact problems with my 01 and i had a 00 that had the same problems. all had good motor mounts. my current 01 has newer lower mounts, new control arms, i have it aligned every few months (especially after changing the axles).....i am tired of dealing with it as well. i don't drive like a granny but i'd be hard pressed to believe it makes that much of a difference if its not being raced. i have only a few other ideas. maybe it needs new struts and springs and also i wonder if the sub frame bushings make a difference. maybe it is as simple as incorrect torque. i break them loose with a breaker bar and cheater bar over it and tighten it with just the breaker bar until it gives resistance, but not too tight. maybe its low tire pressure. i don't have stock rims but i used to and it did the same thing.

they are meant to flex so i'm puzzled by the whole thing.

i would love an answer to this riddle.
 


I have my original factory on my drivers side with a ripped boot lol and have yet to hear anything from in like 10-5k miles of that.
 
I really like factory ones, I know aftermarket ones can be repetitive failures. My passenger side boot ripped, and I just replaced the boot myself. The inner one broke which is the easy one. Although doing both at the same time is just as easy. It's just doing the outer that can be tough. (because if you do the inner you don't have to take apart the outer joint. You just need one joint taken apart to do both. And the inner is much easier)

So still on the factory axles at 116k
 
they pop with turning sometimes and they can pop on changes in orientation, like a divit in the asphalt in a parking lot or something, and vibrate under acceleration or vibrate around 45mph sometimes. sometimes there is creaking noise when turning the wheels. has newer outer tie rods.

change the bad one out, shortly thereafter the other goes. rinse, repeat.
 
Hmm. Try napa axles yet? Idk about you guys but that would annoy me, going through axles that much. Although to me every 30k miles is like every 8.5 years...lol
 


NAPA's reman and new axles are cardone btw. I would take a look at the motor mounts, ball joints/control arms and make sure your struts aren't blown/worn.
 
I have never changed cv shaft but have read somewhere on here that could be my problem. My car started doing it around 32,000 miles on it... shaking/vibrating going down the road that is. Starts around 45 mph. Comes and goes as you speed up. Had tires changed and that didn't help. One mechanic told me he never heard cv go out at 32000 miles. Thinks it's a motor mount without looking at it...car now has 60,000 miles on it without getting worse. I have rotated the tires and seems little worse right after that is done. I did have one tie rod fixed under warranty right after I bought the car. Any thoughts would be great.
 
Tire balance, alignment, hub, shaft, strut, mounts, etc... "ALL" OR "ANY" could be cause of vibration... You've got to find the cause without shotgunning parts to try and fix the problem. There are ways to identify each being worn, you have to check each.
 


Well, I have checked over everything. As I said originally. This started as a brand new car. I actually found the warranty ticket for the first two cv shafts. 35,000 miles. lol So. the problem started brand new. Upper motor mounts seem alil worn so I am replacing them. Ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings. All look good to me. It's never had a single mile on a harsh dirt or rock type road. So all that hasn't taken a beating. I had it aligned 3 years ago just because I'd never had it done. I don't feel quite so stupid now that I see I am not the only one with the issue. As far as the condition of the bad cv shafts, Clicking sounds while turning has always been the clue. The very first set of cv shafts, that came new on the car. One of those actually fell apart on me at the 35k mark. The car has treated me beautifully other then this issue. Only thing I've ever had to do to it was those silly hard plastic coolant elbows. Changed belt and water pump and belt tensioner when I did the elbows. lol I dunno. It is a puzzle wrapped in a riddle for sure.
 
Yeah it's not a worn suspension part causing them to fail that early obviously. Something else is wrong causing the issue. My best guess is the cradle isn't aligned properly. Maybe it's too far forward or back, I suppose if the outer cv joint is always at a slight angle when at a constant cruise it could accelerate wear. Not sure of a way to check this other than eyeballing it.
 
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