• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

2008 Door Rust - Welcoming Opinions

S

stocker

New member
I noticed some rust bubbles last year where the metal is joined and bent together. I think water is seeping from inside the door between the two pieces of metal forming rust which bubbled up under the paint. I already ground it down once and applied some "rust stopper" and touch up paint - clearly that really worked well. Anyone have thoughts on how to address this?

 


I think the problem is the inside of the to door/drain area was not painted properly during manufacturing. With the salty water in the winter running down the windows into the door it sits in there and is creating the problem. I was considering cutting the whole bottom of the door from drain hole to drain hole, sanding away any rust and spraying the area with something like rhino liner. I'm thinking this would allow water to escape and would hopefully slow the rust.

Any thoughts?
 
See how the bottom edge is kinda crooked? I bet a magnet will not stick everywhere on the outside of the door, meaning bondo is there. It got smacked and the metal distortion caused the skin to slide off the shell slightly. The original corrosion protection was disturbed and not reapplied after a dent repair in the outer door skin.

This is a good example of how "Well, this other shop said they would fix it for a lot less." happens, in reality. No line on the bill saying "restore corrosion protection". When your door skin was smashed, that folded flange moved, breaking up the paint and sealer in between. If you're finding that in other places around the edge, the car had a new door skin when it was younger. So like death punch guy says... If you can find an undamaged and matching salvage door that won't need paint, it won't cost much more than all the goo you are considering using. In a case like this, I would prefer a one step rust converter followed by glossy spray paint but that will only buy time. Undercoat holds water and does not protect metal from rusting, FYI
 
couple choices

A. get a southern door and apply seal-out coating to the inside.

B. take 80 grit to door bottom till its clean bare metal and apply seam of 3M panel bond adhesive to bare metal area, then paint/ add seal out to inside of door.

c. new GM door shell for 500$

d. keep adding converter/touch up.

i deal with this alot at the body shop i work at, most folks opt for option B as it seems to be the most cost effective/semi good results.
 
I never imagined there were any repairs or bondo but I will check.

A color matched door may be the easiest in the end.
 


You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top