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2007 GP Base lifters

T

TheRiGuy

New member
Hi all, when the weather eventually warms up I'm planning to do a fel-pro intake gasket refresh on my 07 GP 3800 S3. No major leaks but shes starting to get up there in miles with a few seeps and i feel it would be good preventative maintenance.

Anyway while I'm down that far into the heads is it recommenced to replace the lifters? Every once in a while when its extremely cold (below say -25°C) i sometimes get some light ticking for a couple seconds on start up which quickly disappears and I'm told this could be a lifter. I do most of my own work on the car but by no means an engine expert so i don't wanna go f'ing something up. Ive read in some places online that its as simple as loosening the rocker arm bolts, removing the push rods, remove lifter retainers and put everything back together with only new lifters and re-using push rods and rocker arm bolts. other sources say you have to do a complex series of measurements, possibly new custom length push rods and new rocker arm bolts, quite frankly if that's the case i don't wanna risk anything. any tips would be greatly appreciated including recommended lifters to use.
 


Last I remember the LS7 lifters were the go to replacements for the 3800. The rocker bolts are tty, they should be replaced but I've reused them before. You don't sound like the type that would want to risk a rocker bolt coming loose if you're replacing lifters because of a light tick at -25c, though. Let the new lifters sit submerged in clean oil overnight, too, don't want to install those bastards dry.
 
thanks for the reply. Just to be clear, I should be able to simply grab a set of these from zzp, soak em overnight, and just drop them in without having to worry about push rod lengths or any other form of adjustments? I plan to get new oem rocker arm bolts.

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Make sure all the pushrods and rocker arms go back to the same cylinders, too. Flushing your cooling system so all you have left is water in there before you get started isn't a bad idea either, this way it's only water potentially getting into the engine when you pull the lower intake vs coolant. If you remove the lower rad hose and tstat, then use a shop vac on the tstat opening to blow the water out of the intake, you might not even have to change the oil afterward. I take a lot of precaution on this part because I've bought several 3800 vehicles with spun #1 rod bearings that had the lower intake gaskets done not long before. No doubt they just yanked the intake and a ton of coolant ran down into the engine, no bueno.
 
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