My 2002 GT dies while driving in town, never on the highway. Replaced the fuel pump, EGR (got rid of the service engine light), throttle position sensor, and another sensor that I can't think of the name but it's right above the TPS (sorry, I'm a newbie youtube by example person). after all that, it still happened. ""THEN"", my wife happened to overhear a conversation in the elevator of someone describing a similar situation (this is a God thing, I'm sure) the guy was told that "sometimes the unit under the dash gets hot or there's a loose wire that causes this.". I figured it was worth a try to prove or disprove that theory so I rigged cardboard over the AC vents to vent cold air under the driver side dash. Sure enough, the engine hasn't died for over a month. I looked under there and found the motherlode of wires, enough that I thought I had to register for mineral rights. I pushed some here and there but really had no idea what to do with them all. Without the AC vent work-around I had the old problem of it dying, when I put the vent back on it ran just fine again. So, my question is, what exactly is under the driver side dash that is causing this stalling?
2002 GT Dies when warm - narrowed it down to something under driver side dash
- Thread starter merit501
- Start date
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
dont know nothing about under the dash, but does the tach ever quit working, or quit working right before it stalls? will it fire back up right a way? or some times start 30 minutes later as it see fit?
random stalling 90% of the time is a bad crank sensor, and they hardly ever set the check engine light off either.
random stalling 90% of the time is a bad crank sensor, and they hardly ever set the check engine light off either.
that sounds really weird, I could only think of the ignition harness. on my 2001 to the right of the steering column is a big plug with some heavy gauge wires in it and it has like a 7mm or so bolt in the middle of it to lock it in place.
I don't recall there being a motherload of wires. I guess it depends on what you consider a motherload. Has someone installed a remote starter? its amazing how many shotty remote starter jobs i see where wires eventually rub through somewhere and start shorting out.
what that would have to do with the ac venting it i have no idea. I mean cooler air technically would make metal contract and possibly not allow a short but that's really stretching it.
I don't recall there being a motherload of wires. I guess it depends on what you consider a motherload. Has someone installed a remote starter? its amazing how many shotty remote starter jobs i see where wires eventually rub through somewhere and start shorting out.
what that would have to do with the ac venting it i have no idea. I mean cooler air technically would make metal contract and possibly not allow a short but that's really stretching it.
JEFF WATSON
New member
Things you did not mention replacing: to consider,
Weak ignition switch, keys dragging it to off.
Shorting ignition switch.
Short on the wiring harness where it crosses over the steering column.
Outside:
Shorting oil pressure switch,remove and sniff- if it is shorting out you will smell it.
Trans safety neutral switch.
Weak ignition switch, keys dragging it to off.
Shorting ignition switch.
Short on the wiring harness where it crosses over the steering column.
Outside:
Shorting oil pressure switch,remove and sniff- if it is shorting out you will smell it.
Trans safety neutral switch.