2001 gp gt v5 compressor leak. Anyone interested in reseal tutorial?

[paedbo]

My gt was loosing Freon pretty fast. I injected 1/4 oz of dye and found the leak at the belly o rings of the compressor.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg195/paedbo/IMAG1132.jpg



My MO is I buy a junk yard compressor that is good. Reseal it and then do the swap so I don't have any down time on the car in case I run into an issue.

I bought a 6 mo warranty compressor from a local junk yard and pulled it all apart. resealed it and put an upgraded double lip front shaft seal on it.

Anyways to make a long story short. The swap has been made, the pic above is the original compressor in the car showing its leak.


I am now going to proceed to reseal the original compressor.

Are there people interested in me doing a pic tutorial on how to reseal these v5 compressors? leaks is the number one reason they go bad. Many shops just charge $$ and throw in a rebuild but I have found that unless the v5 is run low on oil its internals are usually in great shape and theres no reason to replace it.

It was also fairly easy to get out through the wheel well. I was able to do it on ramps without even taking the tire off.

Anyways if there's enough interest then I will go ahead and make a pic tutorial of the job.

 

[Russosaur]

I say do the write up anyway, you never know when that random guy needs it and finds it.

Sent from the Milky Way

 

[spazzz]

Can always use another quality how-to on the webz and you seem to know your HVAC.
I take it you would have to put a vacuum pump on it after install??

 

[paedbo]

Yes you would need a few things. A vac pump. You can get one from harbor freight for about $100. Don't bother with that cheap air compressor attachment one. You need a manifold gauge set. I think $50 at h/f too.

Here is a list to show what else is needed for the compressor repair.

You can search ebay for a full kit like the one I bought.

A/C V5 Compressor Gasket Oring Kit & DOUBLE LIP Shaft Seal Kit GM V-5 AC O Ring
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151313084141?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Another essential part you need. Do not think you will get the seal on without damage you must use the following tool.

Part SPGM - SEAL PROTECTOR DENSO 10PA / GM LIP SEALS-SPGM <----- its the last one listed on that page at the bottom showing it can be used on the V5 compressor.
http://centuryautoair.com/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&cat=17

This next tool could technically be optional if you plan on tearing the compressor apart since you could knock the seal out from behind. But its helpful when you go to reinstall the new seal.

90486 - GM Ceramic Seal Set Removal - Installer
https://www.ackits.com/pc/90486/Miscellaneous/90486+-+GM+Ceramic+Seal+Set+Removal+-+Installer

Here's the loan a tools you need from autozone.

pulley puller
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...d-Equipment/A-C-Clutch-Pulley-Puller/_/N-263k

clutch hub puller and installer.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-26vf?itemIdentifier=948077_0_0_&target=shelf

You could probably get the loaner clutch holding tool too but I'm a pretty strong guy and im able to pull/reinstall hub by just holding it with my hand.

You'd also need a bottle of pag 150 oil and I prefer to coat all my new o rings with stuff called Nylog you can easily find it online. Although its not necessary.


Anyways that's just to give people an idea of whats needed for the job. I have a lot of projects going on but I will get it done slowly in the near future and give updates/instructions.

 

[paedbo]

Ok so I had to work on an old retrofitted 3/4 ton truck today after work so my time was limited with the v5 compressor.

In the following picture you will see I have capped the high and low side ports before power washing the compressor. You can also see the control valve sticking out of the top of the compressor ( we will deal with this later).


In the next picture its hard to see but the clutch gap is way too tight hence the reason for the intermittent whirling/ scraping sound I would get when the a/c was off. This will be addressed and fixed when reinstalling the clutch hub.


Right above the blue identification sticker in the next pic you can see the case drain plug. After cleaning off the compressor and letting it dry pull this plug out and drain all the pag oil. Make sure you measure how much comes out so when you go to put it back in you can add the amount that was drained ( generally around 3 oz's sits in the compressor). Don't forget to reinstall the drain plug for the time being.


Spray some pb blaster in the nose of the compressor and then remove the center nut.


This is where I had to stop for now. I'll keep the updates coming.