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1989 Grand Prix Spark plug change HELP

K

Kryptic

New member
I have an 1989 Grand Prix 3.1 V6 Non Turbo with 82,XXX. I now have 89XXX and, I'm just getting around to doing the maintenance on it. I did the basic winter weather tune-up stuff and I am to the Plugs and Wires.

My Problem is that I need to get to the back 3 Plugs and can't seem to get there. I tried to take out the alternator but there is a bolt on the underside rear that I can't get to. Is there other way to get the job done? I was talking to my brother who said that some sideways V6 engines in the late 80's to early 90's that have to have the engine taken out to change the plugs.

If anyone could help, I'd be greatly appreciate it.
 


Even with taking the dog bones loose it won't rock foward any? I don't know much on these years, that's why I ask. Seen a pic of a 89 engine bay and noticed the DB's.
 
Idk. I'm not completely sure how to do it. But I have to start soon. I'll have my gf check this to see if anyone has any ideas.
 
I know on my wifes GA with the 3.1L it didnt rotate forward any and it was something of a chore to get to the ones on the back side of the engine.
 


ChngPlgs.jpg


1. Remove the bolts from the engine side of the "dog bone" engine mounts.
2. Pivot the engine mounts up and out of the way.
3. Pry the motor forward. You can use several methods. GM makes an engine tilting tool if you want to spring for it. I usually use heavy duty ratcheting straps, hooking one end to the bracket behind the motor that holds the MAP sensor, and the other end to a secure spot on the front chassis of the car. Then just ratchet away till you have enough room/clearance to stick your arm comfortably behind the motor. MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE GAP YOU CREATED BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND FIREWALL WITH SOMETHING SOLID, LIKE A THICK PIECE OF WOOD. Don't want to loose an arm or two back there in the rare event that the straps let go.
 
do i see 2 different sets of plug wires on this car ? also might wanna look at that belt LOL

RareGMFan said:
ChngPlgs.jpg


1. Remove the bolts from the engine side of the "dog bone" engine mounts.
2. Pivot the engine mounts up and out of the way.
3. Pry the motor forward. You can use several methods. GM makes an engine tilting tool if you want to spring for it. I usually use heavy duty ratcheting straps, hooking one end to the bracket behind the motor that holds the MAP sensor, and the other end to a secure spot on the front chassis of the car. Then just ratchet away till you have enough room/clearance to stick your arm comfortably behind the motor. MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE GAP YOU CREATED BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND FIREWALL WITH SOMETHING SOLID, LIKE A THICK PIECE OF WOOD. Don't want to loose an arm or two back there in the rare event that the straps let go.
Click to expand...
 
lol, yes. I was only half way through changing the wires, and putting everything back together on this car when I took that pic. Sun was going down, so I wanted to hurry up and get some shots while you could see it for some before and after pics. You have NO idea what a mess that car was when I picked it up. Here's what it looked like on the eBay auction:

EngBayBfr1.jpg


Engine mount brackets unbolted, fan was unplugged and unbolted, air intake was lying in pieces scattered about the engine bay, one of the injectors was unplugged, etc. Hell, the thing didn't even have a computer!

That day, I ended up putting in new iridium plugs, new 8mm Taylor wires, 3 new AC Delco coils and ICM, new Kenny K oil return line, replaced the leaking radiator with one I had from a parts TGP, new thermostat, and of course, put everything back together and in order. Followed by a LOOOOOT of scrubbing and cleaning. I think the end results were worth it. :D
 
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