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14* of KR..........Trannyman?

t24moore

New member
I have been battling this problem for awhile now. Essentially if I just punch the gas I get 14* of KR, if I just give it a TINY bit of gas then punch it I get 0* of KR. We cannot find anything wierd in the scans outside of the 14* of KR. My tranny is stock with a shift kit, is this a possible tranny problem? My gap is set at stock on my plugs (.055), is this too big? I dont have any problems at WOT in the upper RPMs. Ideas please.
 


do you have any way of tunning it? i think it might be false. maybe up a pulley size or two to see if it goes away, because who knows how long that motor will last with that much knock.
 
"do you have any way of tunning it? i think it might be false. maybe up a pulley size or two to see if it goes away, because who knows how long that motor will last with that much knock."
???? I dont think the pulley has anything to do with it simply because I can give it a tiny bit of gas (1% throttle) then stomp on it and go all the way to 120 with 0 KR. If the motor goes it goes, its a 97 with 130k on it. Thanks tho.

"hat are the O2s looking like? What spark advance are you running?"
The 02s are around 920 and im commanding 17* of timing.
 


t24moore, whats your PE enable set at as well as your s/c decel boost control by throttle(if using the powertunr)?
 
Sounds false. I believe if you had 14 actual degrees of kr, your engine would let you know something is wrong, kr values max at 15... Either way you need to get rid of it. Check your downpipe for clearance/scratches like bio said.
 
My swaybar is flipped and my downpipe is custom, theres plenty of clearance. Fst, my buddy does all my tuning with a powrtuner, I will get the bin from him and let you know. Thanks everyone for suggestions.
 
I have seen pretty ugly KR like this on an initial hit on the throttle before and just as you say if you give it a little throttle first then jump on it, or even stall it up from a dead stop and run the quarter it will be fine. If you are doing a roll and jump on the gas the KR shoots up the instant you stab the throttle and then falls away then some tuning should clear it up. When I see this it is normally because it goes lean right when you stand on it and you need to work on the PE table to add more initial fuel and then it should be fine. This requires custom tuning and there is really no other way around this unless as you mention it is false KR and something else is causing it but that is a pretty big spike if it is false.
 
Trannyman95
Here is my post on ClubGP:

His setup (as far as I know):
XP cam
JP double roller
90# springs
Wbodystore fullsize intercooler
N* throttle body with LQ4

TOG headers > no cat > 3" exhaust back to stock Y pipe
No egr
No evap

42# injectors
Racetronix pump + rewire
Alternator rewire + volt booster

Stock GT transmission (3.29 gearing) with Transgo shift kit.



The scans dont show a lean or rich condition MOST of the time the knock appears (according to narrowband O2s). Fueling seems to be pretty good - when stabbing the throttle o2s are around 950 and taper off to 925 and stay there pretty consistently. Sometimes when taking off from a stop his fueling is very rich (goes up to 1000s). I have specifically tried to tune out the take off rich condition at the track over the course of 3-4 passes and it did not make any difference.

Commanded WOT timing is around 15 degrees right now. He doesnt seem to get knock when rolling into the throttle even with 17-19 degrees of commanded timing. Ive messed with the timing quite a bit trying to see if lowered timing makes a difference and it has not.

Also... after t24moore put in his shift kit the knock seemed to dissapear for a while. (t24moore - was this BEFORE or AFTER the 90# springs?)

Things to give some thought:
We both have JP timing chains and have had them for over a year so we might have the "good" ones (year and a half to two years for me).

He broke a 105# valve spring a couple of weeks ago. If the valve kissed the piston a little bit is it possible that a tiny mark on the piston could be causing these issues?

He is running LS6 springs now on 97 heads with an XP cam. Lots of people say they wont fit and his sorta didnt at first (according to him, I didnt see them). He said when he turned the motor over with the springs on they snapped into place. Could this cause any issues? Maybe a different install height or something so the spring pressure isnt what it should be? I know nothing on the specifics of valve springs so I have no idea if this could be the case.

He had to modify his fuel canister to go into his fuel tank. It is a Racetronix pump setup inside of a 97 style canister and I think he has a plastic tank. The canister physically fit with a few weird issues that he fixed so that it would go down all the way. For all intents and purposes... I dont see why the pump would be the issue but I thought Ide throw that out there.

His tranny use to slip pretty bad before the shift kit. After the shift kit was installed it felt like a completely different car! Now it seems the trans has "adapted" and canceled out the shift kit or something... hah.

If the boost bypass solenoid is NOT hooked up and the PCM is looking for it... will that create some type of issue where it will pull timing when/if it thinks it needs to pull boost and it cant? We deleted the boost bypass solenoid and also deleted the code for it from the pcm.
 


Well this problem was there before I replaced my 105s that broke with LS6 springs. We did some tuning/scanning. We leaned it out quite a bit, which felt awesome by the way, and now instead of it bogging now the trans is slipping. The RPMs are up but the car is not pulling much. In the scans it showed the input shaft spinning almost 3x the output shaft. I will probably be giving you a call tommorrow trannyman for a new tranny.
 
Well I finally got my wideband hooked up and we pulled a **** load of fuel from it. The car seems to run alot better and it also downshifts like it should now. All I have to do is just slightly push the gas to unlock the TC then floor it. Its running pretty lean AF ratio in upper 11s/lower 12s but its not knocking any. Only time I get the 14* of KR is when im not paying attention and the TC is locked, this used to happen on my old setup. Now I havent tried to just stomp the gas, but I have no real need to ever do that.
 
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