07GXP - P0030 & P0443 Code Help

[DrParmeJohnson]

Hello,

As the title suggests, I need some help with a P0030 (Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1) and P0443 (Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit) on my 2007 GXP. It has a Cold Air Inductions CAI, ZZP 2.5" DP, and a custom, 93 Diablew Tune.

These codes have only recently appeared and are very annoying. Often, when the car is cold (been in the 30's here in Ohio), I will get a VERY rough idle. The car chops like it has a huge cam and dumps a ton of fuel through the injectors, which leads to a very pungent gas smell in the exhaust and a lot of white bonus smoke (could just be from the cold) to come out the exhaust. It often only happens right after a cold start and the car is idling, stopping for a turn or a drive-thru, for example and only for a minute or two at max.

I have already replaced the pre-cat O2 Sensor and the Evap Purge Control Valve. I found a slightly bare wire going to one of the "distributor" rails/wiring harness that plugs into all of the coil packs on the back side of engine and covered that back up but, there has to be something else shorting out or blown/melted that I can't find.

If anyone has any ideas on what can be done or need more information, please let me know.

Thanks,
DPJ

 

[FordMan77]

Check the fuses for these 2 items. If the fuse is blown it will throw a code.

 

[DrParmeJohnson]

Check the fuses for these 2 items. If the fuse is blown it will throw a code.

Totally forgot I posted this but, after your message, I checked the fuses (which I did before) and I realized that there are actually two emissions fuses. I checked the second fuse before but, after releasing there were two, I checked the second one and it was blown. I threw the spare in there and have been engine light free since.

So, a delayed thank you, but thank you for putting the idea in my head because it was driving my crazy. Now just to figure out how to fix my hood latch sensor from thinking it's always open...

 

[FordMan77]

Found this from an old post, might help on the hood latch issue--> After poking and prodding and testing found out there was a chafed wire going to the sensor on the harness side that was broken. What happens is it rubs on the edge of a plastic, or fiberglass, piece behind the grill and allows the wire to corrode to the point it looses connection. Repaired the fault and works like a charm.

 

[DrParmeJohnson]

I believe it’s something similar to that but the problem came after installing my trans cooler. It’s mounted right beside the hood latch on the driver side and I neglected to re-attach the sensor wiring to the plastic pin that holds it in place so, after it jiggled around from wind, it had its casing melted off by the hot trans cooler. I tried to electrical tape the gap in the line back and seal it off, which did help keep it from sporadically reminding me that the hood was open every other second to only a few times each drive, but it still thinks it’s open. It’s not really an issue other than that it prevents me from using my remote start because it thinks the hood is open. There could be another melted spot that’s still screwing with things but it’s hard to see inside the bumper through just the one grill. I’m not sure if the sensor itself can get damaged if it was shorted out or something when the wire was open as I don’t really know what the sensor looks for. I assume a ground, which the tape may not be giving it, but again, I really don’t know.

Thanks again for the tip tho, it’s probably something else dumb that I just need to find in there.

 

[FordMan77]

The latch works on resistance. When it sees a certain resistance (can't remember what the value is) then it will turn off the light and knows that it's latched.