07 rear suspension torque values please

[KCprix]

So I've got 07 GP base 3.8L n/a, L26 due to alignment problems the rear camber is not adjustable and my tires have been wearing down to steel belts on inner side.
Tires Plus suggested camber bolts, which I have done and tried to re-align.... Still no joy. I then found some minor crease dents in RR trailing arm... Now replaced with fully boxed dorman unit.

And I need to verify torque values. I have both Haynes manual and factory service manual and they both seem incomplete.
For example...

To remove the rear trailing arm front bolt you must remove the 3 bracket to body bolts, the arm bolt hits body or subframe and wont come out until you take the body bracket off... neither manual states this.

Haynes 1988 to 2007 GP manual lists "Trailing Arm to body nut/bolt" 2000 and later 40 ft-lbs.

Factory service manual lists "bolt and nut to trailing arm and the trailing arm bracket" to 77 ft-lbs.

It is bolts only, no nuts on the bracket to body. Unless I'm missing it or misunderstanding neither manual lists bracket to body bolt torque.

But they both agree that the arm to knuckle bolts are 177 ft-lbs.

So, i need to verify 5 bolts.... One in front of trailing arm and 3 for the bracket to body.
Then rear arm bolt to knuckle.

Can anyone verify what is correct or incorrect?

I think they are all the same but factory manual shows pictures for a 2005 GP, aren't all 04 - 08 W bodies the same?

Your help is much appreciated!

 

[Iceman6669]

Moved to the proper section..

 

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Take this from someone who has replaced these things before.

Don't torque them down to factory spec if re-using the original bolts and for sure that one bolt can't be 177 ft/lbs, that will just snap the bolt for sure. Some can be TTY bolts that could break if over torqued again.

I either zip em down with a impact gun real quick or go pretty snug by hand and extra snug on the large bolts. Use blue loctite if you think you need too. I can pretty much guarantee you that almost nobody uses the torque specs on that stuff, even guys at a dealership. It's all about time and not breaking parts.

 

[KCprix]

Thanks for your input @fivefingerdeathpunch I believe you.
And I'm not a noob, i used to be a ASE certified tech, but disabilities forced me to change careers. So i let them expire.
One of those disabilities is, i am OCD about doing a job right per specs... It makes a person slow. That's why i made crap money as an auto tech.
But i still fix my own stuff.

My torque wrench tops out at 150 anyway, i figure for the final torque, i will ask the alignment shop to confirm.

Currently the 177 rear bolt is at 100 ft-lbs and the bracket bolts are at 40....
The front bolt to the bracket, i cant even get a torque wrench in there (not enuf room between it and body/subframe.) I just cranked it down til stop and then a degree or two extra pull.

So far no noise and seems to drive fine.

I'll keep an eye on it, and if any loosen the blue lock tite is a good idea.

I've been trying to get it re-aligned but TP machine is down atm.

You should have seen me fighting camber bolts that were installed first, they asked for 100 ft-lbs, and to torque a bolt that has to maintain a certain clocked position was NOT FUN.
Holding bolt end while trying to torque nut to 100 AAAARRRRGGHHH!

I had the front camber bolt done, move to the rear, finish it and then 15 minutes after the rear was done the bolt head snapped off.... An hour later the front one also snapped.... Gotta love those lifetime warranties, did i over torque or did i get two bad bolts (more likely the former).

Worst part of the story is, the front camber bolt (magnacam) snapped in a way that the oval shoulder still had pieces on it that prevented the bolt from coming completely out.... I could move it all around, it wasn't seized or anything, i even tried my airhammer and my slidehammer, that broken oval shoulder was just hitting the strut and wouldn't come out.

I had to buy another tool for my collection, an air grinder/cutoff wheel.... Then cutoff the remaining threads, knock the rest of bolt shank back into knuckle.... Then i could finally remove the strut, and the rest of bolt fell out...
It only took about 2 days.

 

[FordMan77]

This is why I just slotted my struts and let the shop align it afterwards. Worked out great and not using camber bolts saved money/frustration on my end. Whole lot quicker to just drop the entire strut out, oval out a bolt hole and reinstall than trying to keep camber bolts in the right spot. I'm still on the stock strut bolts too. Never had one snap yet.

 

[KCprix]

@fordman77 that is a good idea, I've already got them in 2 of 4 struts, but ima talk to my guy at alignment shop about this for any future adjustments, might be a better way to go.
At least saves $25 a bolt.

Do you dremel or just a round file, top hole, bottom or both and how do you determine how much material to remove?