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05 grand prix ...going balder by the second

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PontiacGrandPrix2005

New member
Hey guys ...new to this site and would like to gets some feed back to help solve my issue.
I have the base gt 05 grand prix. The things runs like a champ when cold but when it gets up to operating temps i'll be driving and come to a red light/stop sign and itll seem like it has no power then bucks into drive very rough like someone just bump into me. Also it seems to be more of a kick in the ass and go(worse) if im driving it hard then come up to a red light. Ive done a regular tune up plugs wires ..cleaned the maf got a new used TPS and throttle body and cleaned. Ive tried un plugging the maf, o2 up front, egr valve and at seperate times. And each time code came up for each one. I do have a bluetooth odb reader and other then those coming up when unplug them i have no codes. Ive gone to the back lot of walmart and can replecate the issue only in (D) gear ....when i try it from 1st 2nd and 3rd gear shifting through each and its smoother then a babys bottem no chunky start. Stumped please help of u guys can.
Thanks
Also we have had this car since 2008 or 09and it started doing this far faaaaaar a few in between. Now for the last 6 to 12 months has been like crazy i cant leave town with out this happening.
 
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Seems close but i dont think thats my issue ..it may be trans but its when the car is hot that it does this and not cold.
And it doesnt really take long to get moving from the stop, its just voilent jerk then im moving again ...some times i can feather the gas and it is not that bad. Or if i throw it in N and rev it a bit just before the light goes green and put it into drive its not as bad or not there at all
 
It can happen when warm too, it says it for both in there.

To me it seems like that part is starting to be the issue, it just sounds internal to the transmission. Nothing on the engine side should be making it do with.
 


Ive un plugged the maf and the issue is still there also have clean it twice with maf cleaner. Does that make a difference.. Also i do have a blue tooth odb reader but have know idea how to use it but to check codes ...which i have none
 
If you unplugged MAF and it still has the issue then that would rule out the MAF as the problem.

You can look at Fuel Bank 1 Long Term and Short Term. If you are having mpg issues you should really be seeing at least -12 Long Term trims, likely even higher than that. I'm not sure exactly which tool you have but it should work with the android Torque app. If you have iPhone, I'm not sure.

Does the car have any issues starting? Both cold and hot starts after sitting 5-30 mins.
 
Add a couple new digital displays for Fuel trim bank 1 Long Term and Fuel trim bank 1 Short Term. Normal values are usually within +/- 9.

When my MAF was dying it would bog a little bit at a light and would have problems hot starting. My Long Term trims were like -25 at times (maxed).
 
Fuel trims should be as close to zero at all times, ideally. They read the fuel as it goes lean and rich of stoich. On the o2 sensors that's .500mv give or take a couple, they always bounce over and under that mark.

Having constant negative fuel trims on a vehicle that has everything factory, means something is dirty like a MAF sensor, incorrectly reading o2 sensors or even something like a fuel injector leaking extra fuel in. Having constantly postive fuel trims can mean similar issues besides the injectors and have a vacuum leak allowing extra air past the o2 sensor.

Ideally trims while driving at a steady speed and idle should be within 5% of zero. Trims go up and down with throttle applications.

I don't suspect this being tied in anyway towards the problem you are having though.
 


Yes, based on your first post this sounds transmission related.

You say it happens when the vehicle is in Drive but less when in manual first gear and 2nd, 3rd. So how is this not a transmission problem when you can make it happen less when you change the gear selector?

The engine is not going to make it slam/bang into year, that is not putting the power to the ground. Reduced fuel mileage can be 20 different things, that sounds like a whole seperate issue regarding that. Fix the first problem before going to another.
 
It doesnt happen at all in 1 2 or 3gear (edit)when i do it manually. Is there a way of testing the problem u have described? **** didnt see the seals part....ive heard of this issue quite a bit and problems steming from being a bad solinod in the tranny, fouled coilpack or plug wires being to close or touching the o2 sensor wires. Im losing my mind and cant really just put out that kinda cash ....ill call a place in victoria and price that kinda fix out or see what they think it is ....ive heard great reviews from them.
Any other input would be cool. Ive also put bottle of lucas trans fix in the other day
 
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Well called around and got from one shop complete tear down and its gunna be around the sum of 3000 and i different shop said 2-300 to to diagnose the issue then go from there.
I explianed my issue and noted the post fivefingerdeathpunch put up....dont really have that kinda cash to be throwing around
 


U figure that death punch is on it like a hound dog? ... I guess my next step is to call for a used one and price that and labor....i can fix most thing on my car but pulling the trans seems like a headache
 
i just did it a month ago. its not horrible. you need no special tools either really. we got a damn good how to here to follow with a tool list even.
 
K would u mind posting it up....i was reading about it and said pull the motor pull the trans. And right there im pooped cause i dont have a picker nor do i know anyone with one
 
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