I had the 'stuck in park' problem on my car. I opened up the console and found that the green wire was not attached. I soldered the wire and still did not work so I just zip tied it and put the console back together. I had the car on ramps because I had to replace the elbows on my coolant lines. They are always leaking. Anyway, I started the car and moved it off the ramps. Turned the car off, put the ramps away and then started my car again to take down to barn to air up tires. Once I got to the barn, I turned off the car. I realized I needed to move it to a better position so I went to start it and it would not start. I still cannot get it started. The dashboard lights and gauges were flickering and the 'P' was flashing. I do not have a security light that is on. We managed to push the car into the garage. I tried to start it again this morning after hooking it up to the battery charger. I turn the key and I just hear clicking. Sometimes it will 'almost' start. My headlamps and taillights work. My windows will not roll down. Everything comes on like supposed to. Also, I 'boosted' the battery and then the head/taillights came on and the key was not even in the car. Did I screw something up with the green wire? I am at a lost and do not know where to begin. any help would be appreciated!
02 Grand Prix GT won't start
- Thread starter dalesandn
- Start date
BillBoost37
New member
I would check them at both ends. Positive goes to starter, negative to the transmission near the starter
wstefan20
New member
Not about the no start, but for the "stuck in park", I'll have to dig out the schematics, but one of the pins on that connector supplies the brake signal, and if it or the ground is not making contact, it won't allow the shift solenoid to work. Though rare, I did see Selliot's actual shift solenoid stopped working altogether, so that's a possibility. One thing you can check is the resistance values of the solenoid (again, I'll find the schematic). Usually if the solenoid fails, there'll be either a super high resistance value, or just OL. I'd start with checking for the brake signal though as it's your most likely culprit, along with the key in ignition signal (can't remember what the signal is but I think it's just a DC voltage (again, I'll send the schematic).
As far as the no-start, I agree with bill and the others. Just start by cleaning the terminals and checking the engine and chassis grounds and the starter too. You can further test by performing a voltage drop to verify the starter is receiving enough power. Let us know what happens!
As far as the no-start, I agree with bill and the others. Just start by cleaning the terminals and checking the engine and chassis grounds and the starter too. You can further test by performing a voltage drop to verify the starter is receiving enough power. Let us know what happens!
Update--I cleaned the battery cables and posts. I checked the purple wire going to the starter and nothing. I checked the ground wires, too. I started to tear into the ignition switch but what a nightmare. Super frustrated as spent all day yesterday trying to figure it out. It seemed the car was getting worse as the day went on. I use to be able to get it to crank a few times, now it just barely clicks. The doors had even started locking/unlocking on their own. So, I ended up calling a wrecker and having it sent to a mechanic! I hated to but I am a college student and I need my car. I don't have the time to figure it out and, being probably something electrical, it would take me forever. Not only that buy I hate mechanics. I prefer to do everything myself as I don't trust them nor can I afford them. I have done all my other repairs myself so I am capable, I just don't know anything about the electronic side.
I want to thank you for the responses. I will be sure to post what they find. I do have one more question, however. I have had to replace the elbows on my coolant lines like four times now. The o-rings disintegrate allowing leaks. Anyone else have this problem or know why this might be happening?
I want to thank you for the responses. I will be sure to post what they find. I do have one more question, however. I have had to replace the elbows on my coolant lines like four times now. The o-rings disintegrate allowing leaks. Anyone else have this problem or know why this might be happening?
BillBoost37
New member
I have found coolant elbows seem to fall apart if people bolt them in w/o wiggling them. What happens is they end up with pressure on them, then are heated by the coolant and they bend closer to a 45 and start leaking. Another thing is you should use some steel wool to clean out the spots where they go in order to give them a clean surface. Also lightly lube the o-rings before you slide them in.
I myself have never chosen to use rtv on them because I've cleaned the rtv out of plenty of other cars when folks used it and then their elbows 45'd and leaked. Nightmare to clean it up.
I myself have never chosen to use rtv on them because I've cleaned the rtv out of plenty of other cars when folks used it and then their elbows 45'd and leaked. Nightmare to clean it up.