Upgrading my alternator
- Thread starter GAFF
- Start date
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
If your lights aren't dimming there's no reason for a higher output alternator. Do you do burps or anything SPL related? If not...don't get a new alternator. You won't see a difference in anything at all.
I guarantee you that you're setup isn't sapping enough power on daily tunes to necessitate a new alternator. If you're having any problems at all find a buddy who has something better than a ryval and try that amp hooked up in your system. If you have light dimming issues it'll be resolved with a better amp.
I guarantee you that you're setup isn't sapping enough power on daily tunes to necessitate a new alternator. If you're having any problems at all find a buddy who has something better than a ryval and try that amp hooked up in your system. If you have light dimming issues it'll be resolved with a better amp.
offroadfury6
New member
big 3 maybe? thats what i'm going for when I get home...
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
Nope. Big 3 won't help amps or sound either. Either your alternator makes enough power or it doesn't. However, very few people reach the extents of their alternator with daily audio.
When you "crank" it you have maybe 10 watts going to a single speaker. That's 40 watts for four speakers. Add a sub...maybe 60 watts total. Let's say the amps are 50% efficient. That means you're drawing 120watts. No reason for 0awg, big 3, alternator, etc.
Most of what you see people installing is snake oil and advertising. However, this is assuming you've set up your system correctly too. Misalign your gain, create some square waves and all hell breaks loose.
When you "crank" it you have maybe 10 watts going to a single speaker. That's 40 watts for four speakers. Add a sub...maybe 60 watts total. Let's say the amps are 50% efficient. That means you're drawing 120watts. No reason for 0awg, big 3, alternator, etc.
Most of what you see people installing is snake oil and advertising. However, this is assuming you've set up your system correctly too. Misalign your gain, create some square waves and all hell breaks loose.
offroadfury6
New member
I dont understand why caps are trash then.
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
EDIT: My numbers may be off but the theory still applies, sorry :/
This might help too:
Grand Prixs Of North America • View topic - Capacitor Info
Think of a capacitor as a battery that can maintain a very high voltage but doesn't hold a lot of power so it maintains the ability to discharge VERY quickly.
A battery is charging ~12.6V. If you're charging system drops below 12.6V then your battery is no longer charging and you begin to draw current from the battery. A 1 farad capacitor only maintains enough juice for about 1/10 a second in a 1000watt system. Once the capacitor is drained it becomes a secondary load on the charging system. You're cap will not discharge until you drop below the charging state for the battery. However, it will wait until the battery returns to a charging state before becoming an additional load on the charging system.
So in that instance, why use a capacitor?
In addition, a well designed amplifier already has the capacitance necessary to maintain it's output built into it's power supply section.
Although the voltage is low on this...here's a photo of a 1 farad capacitor...
1 Farad 5.5 Volt BackUp Capacitor
Feel like you were ripped off yet? I will admit, this one is only good for 5.5V. A higher voltage would increase the size but you could always wire four of them for 22V and 4F.
Here's another...
CPAG1.0F - 1.0F 2.5V Aerogel Super Capacitor Products Solarbotics
So after it's all said and done, you either need a higher output alternator or a better amp
This might help too:
Grand Prixs Of North America • View topic - Capacitor Info
Think of a capacitor as a battery that can maintain a very high voltage but doesn't hold a lot of power so it maintains the ability to discharge VERY quickly.
A battery is charging ~12.6V. If you're charging system drops below 12.6V then your battery is no longer charging and you begin to draw current from the battery. A 1 farad capacitor only maintains enough juice for about 1/10 a second in a 1000watt system. Once the capacitor is drained it becomes a secondary load on the charging system. You're cap will not discharge until you drop below the charging state for the battery. However, it will wait until the battery returns to a charging state before becoming an additional load on the charging system.
So in that instance, why use a capacitor?
In addition, a well designed amplifier already has the capacitance necessary to maintain it's output built into it's power supply section.
Although the voltage is low on this...here's a photo of a 1 farad capacitor...
1 Farad 5.5 Volt BackUp Capacitor
Feel like you were ripped off yet? I will admit, this one is only good for 5.5V. A higher voltage would increase the size but you could always wire four of them for 22V and 4F.
Here's another...
CPAG1.0F - 1.0F 2.5V Aerogel Super Capacitor Products Solarbotics
So after it's all said and done, you either need a higher output alternator or a better amp
Last edited:
offroadfury6
New member
^^^ lol...good job man, bravo lol
1800collect : I've often asked people why they use caps in cars. I've never met an electrical engineer that thought it made sense or would work.
I ran a 600W a/d/s system for 7 years on a stock 105A delco alt. I never had a problem, But i was easily able to overload the alt even at 3000rpm. But it didn't matter, under 99% of conditions the alt had plenty time to catch up. Before a/d/s was bought by directed I often talked to the tech support guy, who also told me not to bother with caps.
I had a run of 4AWG wire to a fusebox that split to two 8AWG runs, to the 2 amplifiers. I don't know if i necessarily needed as big as 4AWG, but the price was right at the time
The way the price of copper has shot up since then, I might look into some 24AWG
I ran a 600W a/d/s system for 7 years on a stock 105A delco alt. I never had a problem, But i was easily able to overload the alt even at 3000rpm. But it didn't matter, under 99% of conditions the alt had plenty time to catch up. Before a/d/s was bought by directed I often talked to the tech support guy, who also told me not to bother with caps.
I had a run of 4AWG wire to a fusebox that split to two 8AWG runs, to the 2 amplifiers. I don't know if i necessarily needed as big as 4AWG, but the price was right at the time
The way the price of copper has shot up since then, I might look into some 24AWG
97gtsc
New member
offroadfury6
New member
i just dont see it....I have a ZX1000 amp and my headlights blink, not bad but they do. my DIC usually says my car runs at 11.4V, depends, it floats up and down...
eh, keep something else in mind. 1000W output will only produce 3db louder then 500W. and will easily consume 2000W instead of 1000.
my system with the 480W for subs and 160W for components was able to hit 118DB in my truck. I typically tried to keep it down around 90db on long trips, I do like my hearing. But there were times id almost clip the system playing a good house song.
my system with the 480W for subs and 160W for components was able to hit 118DB in my truck. I typically tried to keep it down around 90db on long trips, I do like my hearing. But there were times id almost clip the system playing a good house song.
This :th_thumb-up:
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
This is a great thread great input everybody. Enough info to steer people in the right direction.
great input everybody. Enough info to steer people in the right direction.Factor in thermal compression and that kind power means NOTHING unless you've got very good drivers.
offroadfury6
New member
new yellow top battery maybe? when system is off or down it runs 14-15V, I dunno been sooooo long since I was home, Lmao...2 days and I begin my travel back to the states...:th_nanana:
then i'mmma get me a WS6 bizzznitches...:th_thumbsup-wink: