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ABS Trouble...lets see if this forum can step it up

Zef_66

Zef_66

New member
Alright, so I have been plagued by an ABS light that would come on intermittently. So I was able to borrow a Snapon scanner and I got the code. It is:

C1225 Excessive LF Wheel Acceleration

Now, I recenlty replaced the RR wheel hub because of a bad bearing, and thus the WSS. But I doubt this should have anything to do with it. Also, about a year and a half ago, I replaced the LF wheel hub because of a bad bearing, but never had any trouble until recently.

Any thoughts on this? I would be inclined to say the WSS in the LF is bad. But I don't know much about these things, so looking for some help. Lets see if this forum can step it up and get some real help here.

Thanks!
 


I've had the problem where the wire to the sensor was rubbed through on the control arm. You could obviously see this. My old Grand Am had this problem with both front hubs where the sensor or reluctor was loose inside the hub. Replaced both of them, and it went away.

FWIW it would only happen when I would back out of a parking space and pull forward....or when I would crank the wheel from side to side to side while parked.
 
Im going to have to agree and say the WSS in the hub. I have never seen my ABS light come on at any other time. Does the TCS light come on?

I just have never seen that ABS light come on for anything other than the sensor being bad. I had to replace my LF hub last year for this reason. The ABS light doesnt even come on when I hit the brakes and slide on the ice we have had here. I thought that was a problem, but apparently its a warning light and not an indication light.
 
Yes, the ABS light is a warning light and not an indication light. On my 97, the ABS light comes on when there is a problem with the ABS system. The Low Trac light will come on when the ABS engages.

Right now, the ABS light and the low tire pressure light both come on at the same time....when the C1225 code is activated. The 97 GTPs did not have traction control, so this light does not illuminate since I don't have it.

But my question was whether by coincidence after I replaced the rear hub, that there is a problem with the front WSS that is still new (at least newer than all the other ones), or if there is possibly a problem with the EBCM. Didn't know if anyone else had run into a similar problem with this code.
 
UR LOSN said:
I do like the fact that is so easy to change the hubs out....
Click to expand...

But I don't like the fact that you have to change out the entire hub assembly just to change the WSS. Other vehicles you can change only a $20 sensor in 15 minutes. With our cars, you have to scrap a good hub and bearing just to change a bad sensor. Poor design.
 


I dunno I would call it an improvement, new technology maybe. Yeah, its extra preventative maintenance to keep fresh grease in the bearings, but with todays availability of synthetic greases I can see those things not lasting long past what most people keep a car for.
 
Probably won't help you, but on my wife's Grand Am, her ABS, Traction Low, and Traction Off lights were coming on and off and after a bit of research I found out that the electrical connectors can get wet and cause shorts. Sure enough when I disconnected the wire on the passenger side, I was able to shake out a lot of water from the wire loom. I dried everything with some compressed air and re-installed. I did both sides and it has been fine since.

I'm guessing you just have a bad wheel sensor if it isn't intermittent. It was probably coincidence with when you replaced the rear hub.
 
DuBob said:
Probably won't help you, but on my wife's Grand Am, her ABS, Traction Low, and Traction Off lights were coming on and off and after a bit of research I found out that the electrical connectors can get wet and cause shorts. Sure enough when I disconnected the wire on the passenger side, I was able to shake out a lot of water from the wire loom. I dried everything with some compressed air and re-installed. I did both sides and it has been fine since.

I'm guessing you just have a bad wheel sensor if it isn't intermittent. It was probably coincidence with when you replaced the rear hub.
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Dave,

Thanks for the help. I did disconnect all the harnesses on each wheel to test resistance. But I didn't notice any water. But I will try to disconnect all of them again and clean them with electrical cleaner and make sure they are all good. I am probably going to just get a hub from Ed to sit around. Right now, it is fine. But every now and then it acts up and will throw the lights all the time. So we will see.

Thanks again.
 


Good thing the hubs on our cars are easy to replace. If it doesn't fix it, I guess you ruled out the hardware as fault.
 
DuBob said:
Good thing the hubs on our cars are easy to replace. If it doesn't fix it, I guess you ruled out the hardware as fault.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not hard, but still a pain. I like working on my car when I want to do it....not when I have to.
 
pick up a cheap used one that tests good and swap it out. I found the hub I put on my car last year is junk already(stupid aftermarket crap)
 
seeing as your code is not comming up as "open or short" it's not likely that it is a connector problem. as far as the WSS goes, it appears that it could be just gone bad and reading incorrect values, but there is a slight chance that it could be the brains of the unit, rather than the sensor side that is reading incorrectly-- but i'd almost expect if it were the brains of the abs, you'd see more/other issues. swapping the hub and WSS sounds like the cheapest option out there....

i'll include this tidbit about the connections/wire harness just for fun...

when you disconnected the harness at the hub and checked those, did you also disconnect at the frame? at least on the front two, there are two short harnesses that go from the hub up to the frame-- so there is another connection to check. I know on my regal, the contacts at the frame side were actualy kind of loose. Needed to use a small jeweler's screwdriver and pry them back out again.
 
Toasty said:
i'll include this tidbit about the connections/wire harness just for fun...

when you disconnected the harness at the hub and checked those, did you also disconnect at the frame? at least on the front two, there are two short harnesses that go from the hub up to the frame-- so there is another connection to check. I know on my regal, the contacts at the frame side were actualy kind of loose. Needed to use a small jeweler's screwdriver and pry them back out again.
Click to expand...


I disconnected them both places and checked them.

And I have a hub coming from Ed. Should be here is a few days.
 


Ohm out the wiring harness too to make sure you don't have a short and check for open or bare wire. There is also an intermediate harness between the pcm and the abs wheel sensor. It is about 12"-15" long I believe. I've had to replace those before.
 
japslpr said:
Ohm out the wiring harness too to make sure you don't have a short and check for open or bare wire. There is also an intermediate harness between the pcm and the abs wheel sensor. It is about 12"-15" long I believe. I've had to replace those before.
Click to expand...


Thanks Japslar, I did Ohm the wiring and sensors on all four corners. They were all between 1020 and 1100 ohms. I checked the sensor itself and the wiring harness that you mention.

But this past week, I did notice that I was getting a humming sound that was very likely another bad bearing. So I ordered a used one from Ed and go to put it in this weekend. Come to find out the brand new ($140) NAPA bearing that I replaced less than 1.5 years ago is bad. Bone dry and definitely the cause of my noise. And this was on the LF, which is the one that was throwing the ABS code. So I replaced it with the used Morad unit and vow to never buy another new hub again!

Thanks for all your help. But I just couldn't believe that this bearing would go bad so quick!
 
It happens more often than you think. Just because something is new doesn't mean it can't be bad. I deal with it every day.
 
Zef_66 said:
Thanks Japslar, I did Ohm the wiring and sensors on all four corners. They were all between 1020 and 1100 ohms. I checked the sensor itself and the wiring harness that you mention.

But this past week, I did notice that I was getting a humming sound that was very likely another bad bearing. So I ordered a used one from Ed and go to put it in this weekend. Come to find out the brand new ($140) NAPA bearing that I replaced less than 1.5 years ago is bad. Bone dry and definitely the cause of my noise. And this was on the LF, which is the one that was throwing the ABS code. So I replaced it with the used Morad unit and vow to never buy another new hub again!

Thanks for all your help. But I just couldn't believe that this bearing would go bad so quick!
Click to expand...

has to do with low quality and offshore built. I have the same issue on mine the one I put on last year is bad, but I won't use a used bearing (just my own preference)
 
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