alright I'm in to process of doing a retro fit. I'm using moriomto minis. my first question is how much do i grind back to fit the projector? I've been trying to find a picture of a previous build but i can't
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alright I'm in to process of doing a retro fit. I'm using moriomto minis. my first question is how much do i grind back to fit the projector? I've been trying to find a picture of a previous build but i can't
Here is Korys page(GrandPrix06GT) for some visual.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...talled!/page27
just cut the hole... is there a way i can get a bigger silicone washer so i wouldn't have to use the jb weld to aim it ? the one they gave us in the packet isn't near big enough
If the frame extends past the hole, drill for small bolts and slot them for rotational movement.They would be used for an idea of how high when you test drive.
Then use them for support while aiming at a 25ft level wall and stick the weld in there.
Thats what I did (minus the drive part) then filled voids with stick weld and completely sealed the back with the Kwik Weld. no need for boots.
I read some guys would use an old jar lid with an appropriate hole cut for the back.
OK after doing more research I got a couple questions...
1. When I put the rubber butle in do I do it from the reflector bowl side or do I do it from the back side?
I just use the rubber butle to make it easier to aim? And then when I'm happy I slop on the jb weild?
2. In the link he used plasti dip but people on here told me not to use it...
I've been doing research on this forever I just want to make sure I'm getting everything strained out before retrofit day
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Rubber butyl on the reflector side that way it can hold the projector in place while you align them . Then JB weld on the backside when your happy with the placements.
Plasti dip for what? You don't need that crap use something that's meant for high temperature like engine enamel. Do it right the first time or chance it and use plasti dip and then hate yourself when it starts to peel and then you have to open the lights up again.
Alright so rubber on the front and jb on the back... Got it. And Alright I will pick up some black high temp paint... I definitely don't want to be cheap with this. I'm gunna do the high beams black also.
And about throwing the headlight back in the oven after your done to re-seal kinda makes me nervous... I mean I'm gunna spend a lot of time aiming but I don't want them to move in the oven when I get all rubber warm
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That's why u aim and JB weld them first before you throw them back in the over to deal the lens. Or you can use a heatgun.
I sealed the back of mine completely with kwik steel then coated it with the kwik weld to make them completely waterproof and baked away.
After that I ran a bead of Permatex black rtv around the perimeter.
Oh god I didn't know there were different kinds of jb... I gotta look to double check what kind I got
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Yea there's a few different kind. Hell you could use JB weld or JB quit or even use JB putty instead of the butyl to line them up. There's really no wrong way of doing it. I like using the butyl to aim because it doesn't get hard like JB weld and is easy to remove. JB putty well it'll only gives you like a 5 min gap to get if set and aimed which isn't that long.
Nope leave it on there. No point in removing it plus if you apply it from the reflector end it's going to be damn impossible to remove it when the projector is in place. Don't go overboard with it you don't want it to be visible when the projector and shroud is on.. Now on the backside of the reflector.. Go crazy. I wouldn't use plastic weld stick to the other JB products
OK sound good... And damn the one jb product I get is the wrong onewhat one should I get
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Plain old JB weld. Or JB quik or JB putty any of those will work obviously the standard JB weld is probably the strongest of the bunch but doesn't matter as long as whatever you get you apply enough.
OK sounds great... thank you for your great help like always
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