Thread: having issues with my HIDs

what brand hids you buy? i had flickering on drivers side and was just the cheap realy harness i had mixed with bad ground.

Then with the drls there isnt enough voltage running through them. but if you have a harness this should correct that, if not i would be looking at faulty ballast

I would say it has something to do w/your drl's... if they're anything like my TBSS, then they need to be killed... drl's typically run at 70% power and about 10V instead of 100% power and 12V when your headlights are on, and the signal is pulsated for drl's... the relay harness simply protects your stock wiring harness.. it has nothing to do with drl's... I know for the trailblazer platform we can add a diode to make the drl's run at 100%, but I'm no sure about the GP platform..

i am gonna go against what the above is saying cause i have no issues with the drl. a harness has a relay wictch doesnt pulsate thus create a 12 volt with a triggerd source. i would still look at othere possibities.

the relay has 12volt from battery, switch from original headlight wiring, and 12volt out from the 12 volt in. nothing like a cap in anyway, unless your battery is dyeing and not producing 12v,

Maybe check the connections inside the oem plug. Sometimes they corrosion on them which would give a bad connection.

well i would say put it back in cause that will cause you to get the 10 volts for sure, you have to have other elctrical problems going on

Originally Posted by painthorsemoe

Battery is brand new just put it in a week ago.

But when I'm running the drls does it run 10v or 12v?

Oh an I have since last night removed the relay

Drl's run at a 70% pulsated signal... I'm not familiar with the GP platform as much as I am with my SS.. I know for the trailblazers, we need to kill drl's or do the capicitor mod at our BCM.. without those, we run into major problems with HID's.. if we do the cap mod, we don't need relay harness' as the cap mod makes the drl's function at 100%.. and a relay for the tralblazers only protects the stock wiring, has nothing to do with make drl's run at 100%.... but it looks like the GP's are slightly different.. that's why I won't run them in my '01 GP, stupid auto headlights and drl's.. I know how to kill the drl's but since I have an '01, I can't pull the drl fuse to kill the autolights too...

in 97-03 its simple to disable, on 04+ bcm related, not gonna beat a dead dog here but quit talking about th 70% bs, if you use a harness wont matter cause it will give the ballast 12 volts no matter what the trigger input is.

Originally Posted by Jteske88

in 97-03 its simple to disable, on 04+ bcm related, not gonna beat a dead dog here but quit talking about th 70% bs, if you use a harness wont matter cause it will give the ballast 12 volts no matter what the trigger input is.

No its not simple, well kinda yea but still lol.. '97-'00 you can pull the fuse and/or heat sync, '01-'03, it doesn't work via the fuse.. unless ur gonna tell me that when I pull my fuse and get the constant clicking of auto headlights is normal... the heat sink works to kill drl's but not autolights...

And the 70% isn't BS.. anyone who knows about electrical in any gm vehicle, knows that drl's function at less lower power and it's a pulsated signal... if your car is off and you turn your lights on, why will your ballasts buzz? You have a relay hooked up to you battery that is 12V, but yet, they'll still buzz until you turn the car on.. why is that then??... I know what the harness' function is and primarily, they are used to protect your factory wiring... and also pull power from the battery... but at startup! Not for the duration that the drl's are on.. Some vehicles might be able to power up HID systems normally without problems. The inrush load can be up to max 13 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen/stock bulbs. The factory design parameters for headlight circuits are usually 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continuous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, because of heat buildup. (I have 2 relay harness' on my SS, but you should still kill drl's to prolong the life of the bulb and ballast), obviousy the harness doesn't matter in the OP's case.. he is having problems with it and without it.. so its either a bad relay, , ballasts, bulb, or something else... just because yours work doesn't mean others do... each car is different and each HID manufacturer is different...

To the OP, hope you can figure things out.. I have VVME 35W HID's low's and fog's in my SS, had them for over 2 years now w/zero issues..

Edit: while jogging today, noticed that later model GP's have drl's in the bumpers and are orange... so drl's wouldn't matter/cause issues... and also going off of what TJeno posted... my apologies for the confusion...

A bud of mine had the same problem with his DRLs, he installed a relay and problems solved.

I'm picking mine up from the post office on Monday..so excited. (And thank god '04s don't have DRLs.)