I found these for cheap and i love them
|
My money on these people breaking wheels studs, is that they don't know what a torque wrench is. Never had any vibration or broken studs at 100 ft.lbs. every time.
Also, the only time I've ever seen four studs broken at once, like the guy in that thread, was when none of the lug nuts got tightened. Not accusing him of anything, but that's the only time I've ever seen it happen. Hand tighten them, let the car down, get sidetracked and forget to tighten them down. Few miles later and they all go bye bye.
FWIW, the reason hardly anyone has any trouble with Mustang 5x114.3 wheels is because the Mustang hub is only 0.2mm larger in diameter. (70.5 vs. 70.3mm) The wheels come virtually hub centric.
Just putting that out there for anyone concerned about the 114.3 pattern.
No. Bullitts are ugly.
not proof, per say, but the studs bear all of the weight and do all of the work. it just so happens that we have a 70.3mm hub bore which is what most aftermarket wheels use.
also, if it was hub-centric you wouldnt be using a 60* acorn lug nut. the lug nuts keep the wheel centered, not the hub bore.
Our wheels have the same bore as our hub, stock. That's no coincidence.
A 50lb+ wheel isn't going to center easily with just the taper of the lugs. The hub protruding into the wheel at the same diameter is there for a reason.
I've ran hub centric and non hub centric wheels and spacers, you want hub centricity on our cars.
I had a set of 15lb 17" 114.3 wheels that were not hub centric and I had chronic front wheel bearing and stud issues. at 450-500miles/week. I tried various brands, the axle nut torque spec was always correct, etc.
At the very least, why wouldn't you want to roll the way your car did from the factory?
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |