Thread: Stock Spoiler Studs?

Hi all -

The stock spoiler on our '03 GTP was letting water into the truck. The decklid was also rusting under the wing. So I removed the spoiler today. 3 of the 6 studs wouldn't come out - they spun in place. I was finally able to remove the spoiler by grabbing the studs with needlenose pliers to keep them from spinning. But now what? How are those fastened to the spoiler? Can they be replaced? I figure worse case is I can drill a few new holes in the decklid and use some self-tapping screws to attach to the spoiler. With only 3 bolts holding it on now it doesn't look right and rattles. Ideas?

Water into the *trunk* that is.

dealt with this exact same issue. First off, the spoiler seals via grommets, so using self tapping screws will just ensure your trunk will rust in three years. For the holes that stripped out, most hardware stores sell this fastener Amazon.com: Jili Online 6 Pieces M5 Metric Rubber Grommet Rubber Well Nuts Blind Fastener Windscreen Wellnuts Kayak Accessories: Automotive All you have to do is run a screw with some gm sealant through it and the holes in your trunk are sealed. These aren't probably the right size, the link is just so you know what I'm talking about. For the ones that don't spin, just use a set of rubber washers like this Isolate It: Sorbothane Vibration Isolation Washer 30 Duro (.13" ID - 0.5" OD - .13" Deep) - 12 Pack: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific to seal. Just make sure you clean the surfaces well before you install these (again, link just for an idea, not size you'll need, just go to the hardware store and size them with your old bolts).

From many, many tries, there isn't any great sealant that'll actually seal your spoiler directly to the trunk without having to sand and repaint, but then it becomes a "pool" up there (trust me). Better thing to do is space it up with the aforementioned fasteners to seal the holes. This also spaces the spoiler up a tiny bit. Not enough to be visibly different, but it'll drain better so water won't pool.

If you're still having a trunk leak, try putting some rubber washers around your taillight holes as it commonly leaks here. Another point is the body sealer by the rear taillights sometimes cracks (mine did). Just have a friend pour water on the trunk while you're sitting in it with a flashlight. You'll be able to see the leak with the carpet pulled back.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

dealt with this exact same issue. First off, the spoiler seals via grommets, so using self tapping screws will just ensure your trunk will rust in three years. For the holes that stripped out, most hardware stores sell this fastener Amazon.com: Jili Online 6 Pieces M5 Metric Rubber Grommet Rubber Well Nuts Blind Fastener Windscreen Wellnuts Kayak Accessories: Automotive All you have to do is run a screw with some gm sealant through it and the holes in your trunk are sealed. These aren't probably the right size, the link is just so you know what I'm talking about. For the ones that don't spin, just use a set of rubber washers like this Isolate It: Sorbothane Vibration Isolation Washer 30 Duro (.13" ID - 0.5" OD - .13" Deep) - 12 Pack: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific to seal. Just make sure you clean the surfaces well before you install these (again, link just for an idea, not size you'll need, just go to the hardware store and size them with your old bolts).

From many, many tries, there isn't any great sealant that'll actually seal your spoiler directly to the trunk without having to sand and repaint, but then it becomes a "pool" up there (trust me). Better thing to do is space it up with the aforementioned fasteners to seal the holes. This also spaces the spoiler up a tiny bit. Not enough to be visibly different, but it'll drain better so water won't pool.

If you're still having a trunk leak, try putting some rubber washers around your taillight holes as it commonly leaks here. Another point is the body sealer by the rear taillights sometimes cracks (mine did). Just have a friend pour water on the trunk while you're sitting in it with a flashlight. You'll be able to see the leak with the carpet pulled back.

Thanks for the reply and the links.

So those grommets should pry out of the wing? I'll give that a shot.

I covered the holes in the decklid where the missing studs are with duct tape for now. I gooped up the remaining mounting points with RTV silicone. It is easy to remove when I get around to sanding and priming the decklid - that needs done to keep it from rusting any further. It's all pitted as it is. Then I'll use the proper grommets and rubber washers to reinstall (assuming I can get the old grommets out).

I also had to drill a 1/2" hole in the underside of the wing to fish out the studs that fell inside it. Otherwise they'd be rattling around in there. I don't know whether to plug the hole or just leave it as a drain.

I had same issue. Also somehow had road sand inside spoiler so I drilled a hole in it and vacuumed it out and sealed it back up with some silicone and a male plastic plug. I managed to remove the spoiler without losing the studs into the inside of the spoiler. All but one were stripped and wanted to fall inside. I kept the nuts threaded on barely and used 2 part epoxy to glue them back to spoiler and spaced them out tight against the nuts with cardboard to put pressure on the stud. All but 3 worked and I need to try it again because I didn't get the epoxy mixed right using a 2 nozzle epoxy syringe-it was all I had at the time. I used garden hose gaskets for the perfect spacing and drainage and they crushed well and are not visible. However I now have a water leak I need to figure out and need to redo the 3 that stripped out.

So would you drill out the old studs and use those expansion well nuts?

Okay - all fixed. Here's what I did. I got everything at Home Depot.


I used 1/4-20 x 5/8 expansion nuts. I epoxied them in like a dope because it didn't occur to me at the time that the EXPANSION part in "expansion nut" means that when drawn down it will expand and secure itself to the spoiler. Since they're neoprene I didn't put washers under them. I put neoprene washers under the 3 remaining stock studs. I also used coated, sealing washers on the underside.


I had to make the stock holes a little bigger after drilling out the stock grommets to accommodate the new expansion nuts.


I covered up the rust with Rustoleum. Their red is remarkably close to the Victory Red.


The expansion nuts and neoprene washers raise it up just a bit which I think looks much better and will allow debris to pass under it.