Thread: Thinking of Going Turbo in your GP?

im using a ported l67 tb on an l26 intake. with the turbo forcing air into the intake rather than the supercharger trying to suck air in, the tb doesnt need to be bigger. you can use the n*, most use an lt1 maf, im not sure why not the lq4 but it has also been used. both those mafs also have a higher frequency range so you dont need an mini afc.

The upper I'm not going to port, the l67 tb is a tiny bit smaller already if I remember right and the adapter is a little smaller too. I might bite out the holes a little to line it up better. The lim I gasket matched to the heads but that's all. You'll benefit from smoothing down the channels but i had done so much other stuff that I didn't get to it.

its the front power log's that are the most restrictive

The car tuning kit will work with the new normal rear plog but not the turbo plog. The waste gate attaches to the stock downpipe location on the rear manifold like the z3 kit. You would have to do some fab work to relocate the waste gate in order to use the rear plog.

Go to cartuning.ca they have clearer pictures of the kit.


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I still have the xover, upper DP and lower DP from my CT kit. I wanted to upgrade to the rear turbo plog (new plog wasn't out yet) to open up the exhaust more since I had a rear PEM and needed to help engine breathe. That meant relocating the WG. Which BTW makes it a pain to change the rear plugs with the CT kit.

I moved the WG to the xover right where the front plog meets the xover and made it an open dump. I then blanked up the flange going to the DP.

Amazing thread!!!!

it gives you another place to shove a gerbil

It helps with even flow in the exhaust and reduce turbulence

I'm going to run a L26 with L67 tb

Look at the vendors recommendations...do you like asking the same question 8 different ways to get the same answer 8 times for everything?

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

none of the vendors suggest the 130lb springs. zzp either says 125 for the stattama stage 1 or 140/150 for the stage 4/5, and intense doesn't suggest any particular valve spring. sorry to annoy you with my questions.

for all intensive purposes a 125# spring is basically a 130# spring. i have the crow 125# springs shimmed to 130# seat pressure in my car with an ST5 cam and dont have any issues. i do think that i am getting a little valve float over 6000RPM as my power starts to fall off so heavier springs would be a benefit. but it doesnt mean that you cant run that setup. per your own requirements you said you didnt really want more then 375 at the wheels. 375 can easily be done with your XP cam and about 14-15psi (maybe less) for instance my car made 340 on the stock cam, springs, heads, on 13psi. shouldnt be to hard to pick up another 35HP with an xp cam. no it is not the most efficient setup. i dont think that you will be able to get the same power running significantly less boost with a specific turbo cam. given your power goals i would not switch cams. if you think you want more in the future and are willing to shell out big bucks on a trans in the future then by all means get an ST5. no reason not too.

i guess maybe i dont understand the question, you shouldnt be picking a cam based on the springs you already own if you are going for an all out setup. you have stated that you arent going for an all out setup, in that case your springs will be more then adequate to safely run any turbo cam on the market...

if i had it to do all over again...i would pick these things in priority order...
HOW MUCH POWER I WANTED?
HOW MUCH LAG I COULD LIVE WITH?
-those two questions will pick your turbo/cam for you
-match the springs to the cam
-match the timing chain to the springs/cam ramp rates


none of the stattama turbo cams idle poorly

Where the heck would you even put the other turbo?

It's already at ultra limited space with a single turbo.

Stick them both out the hood maybe.