Thread: Z7 Install help

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  1. #1 Z7 Install help 
    Donating Users ARFF22's Avatar
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    So i got my Z7 kit and am having it installed and have run across some questions/concerns that I need some assistance with.

    Just to start off, I am installing a Z7 kit on a 2001 NA GP GT L36. With the kit I ordered ZZP front and rear stainless power logs, cat'd ZZP Down Pipe, Air to Air Intercooler, Boost Controller, the Tial Blow-Off Valve upgrade, 180 thermostat, high-flow fuel filter, ZZP pre-programed PCM, and #42 Injectors. The car is running and not throwing any codes at this time.

    Here are some of my questions/concerns, the down pipe has very little clearance in the back between the "plastic" valve cover and the brake booster. It actually is rubbing up against the brake booster and do no have anymore play to adjust it, can hear rattle inside car, any suggestions? Shorter dog bones?

    The clearance between the turbo and the plastic harness to the transmission is crazy close, I can not re-route that transmission harness as suggested in the instructions, what have any of you done to protect it? I put a thermal blanket over that and the PCM so they don't get cooked, but am still concerned?

    The AIT, where the hell does it go? Shouldn't it be inside the air intake before for the throttle body to measure the air temperature going into the engine? I was told to zip tie to the top of the engine some where? Just doesn't sound right to me???

    A lot of movement in the engine is now evident, should I step up to poly engine mounts or just replace them with new OEM rubber ones? If I replace with shorter dog bones will this take care of this issue? The car is a daily driver and I have head that once you go poly on these type of mounts there are crazy vibrations from the engine that get transferred to the car?

    Lastly, I think, when the car is at idle, the blow off valve is open, so in essence, air is being drawn in through the blow off valve and not thru the air filter? Again, doesn't seem right and maybe asking for problems later on down the road if debris gets in the engine. Any suggestions? Can a get a different spring for the blow off valve?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, want to get the car on the road, but don't want to burn it up or cause damage to the engine. Thanx!
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  2. #2 Re: Z7 Install help 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I worked on a Z7 pipe car recently and have a bunch of pics etc.

    Login to a private Photobucket.com album
    If you need a password it's "Boosted"

    The pipes are very close to the rear valve cover and transmission by the connector. Open the loom and see about moving them a bit.

    Booster, I believe the suggested fix is to use a Monte Carlo booster as it's smaller. Not sure on the year, should help with your search though.

    Step up to the poly engine mounts. It'll be the best long term solution. The rubber would probably get beat to heck over a little time.

    I believe the car I worked on had the IAT in the maf sensor, which was post IC.

    Hope this gets you some of what you need.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  3. #3 Re: Z7 Install help 
    SE Level Member BlackGS's Avatar
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    Monte brake booster is the smaller version. That is what I am running with my 3" downpipe. Email Matt at Stattama.com for the exact year that will work for you.

    Get a high-quality turbo blanket for the hot side. Anything that is near the turbo will then be protected. Expect to pay $100 for quality.

    The intake air sensor should be in the air flow and you should be tuned correctly for the amount of heat seen by the sensor. If the turbo is not intercooled it will produce extremely high temps very quickly, and timing should be adjusted accordingly. You might have to fabricate a sensor bung, and that is probably why zzp tells you to just zip-tie it somewhere.

    I have solid engine and trans mounts, and poly on the upper mounts. Vibrations are not noticeable at all.

    What BOV do you have? The spring should be sized to hold the BOV closed at idle and boost, and open smoothly when the TB closes to produce a nice smooth whoosh. If it is opening at idle, the spring is too light. You can shim it to fix a light condition. If you get chatter when letting off the gas after boost, the spring is too heavy.

    2000 Regal GS | Stattama Twin-Charge with Comp Turbo 6765 | 12.55 @ 110 15psi | Now running 20psi on E85!! |
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  4. #4 Re: Z7 Install help 
    GT Level Member rodman's Avatar
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    Go poly everything...Ii have z7 kit and blew the flex pipe apart with oem bushing ffs!!
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  5. #5 Re: Z7 Install help 
    youtu.be/xhrBDcQq2DM FoSHO99's Avatar
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    You should loosen the bolts on the crossover, the 2 going to the front log and 2 goin to the rear log, then loosen the bolts on the turbo. Once everything is loose, things should be pretty easy to adjust. Move things to bring up the downpipe a bit or where it needs to be. Then start tightening one at a time, making sure it still has room.

    I would use some header wrap and wrap the harness of the trans that is directly below the downpipe that may be touching. It would cause some trans problems if the harness gets melted.

    The IAT sensor usually only adds or takes away a couple degrees of timing. If it were plugged in and is in your engine bay, it probably will sit at a high temp. It would only take away 2* max in very hot temperatures. I wouldn't worry about it as much right now because it usually doesn't work to put it in the intake and not have it leak past 5psi. They might have zeroed out the IAT table in the pcm anyway. Here is what it looks like stock:

    2001 GTP PT61 Turbo, E85, Stock Motor
    2011 Chevy Cruze MT6 1.4L Turbo
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  6. #6 Re: Z7 Install help 
    SE Level Member Blownl36's Avatar
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    i had the same problem witht the dp brake booster. Just switched to the monte/impala today. also you might want to get the screw-in iat sensor. it goes where your stock maf would be.
    Z7 Turbo kit w Intercooler/F1 Hood/F-Body Brakes/And some other go fast mods. Tuned and built by:

    http://tunetimeperformance.com/
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  7. #7 Re: Z7 Install help 
    Donating Users ARFF22's Avatar
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    Ordered the shorter dog bones and poly engine mounts, will have to see how these work outs in regards to clearences. Any suggestions on where I should get a Monte Brake Booster? What year Monte am I looking for if mine is an 01 GP GT? Part #?
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  8. #8 Re: Z7 Install help 
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    Got the shorter dog bones and poly bushings for everything, doesn't vibrate too, too much, but definitely more noticeable than stock. The engine does not move at all! Rev it and it stays put, and the shorter dog bones made plenty of room for the down pipe, no more issues with the brake booster.
    Now for the bad news, had a problem with the manual boost controller, can not get it to adjust the boost at all? It is stuck at 15psi? No matter what I adjust it too, stays at 15psi so I am totally baffled?!?! Hooking it up is pretty straight forward, just can't figure it out? But now for the really bad news! Took the car out for a couple passes, car seemed to drive ok. Took it a little easy because the Tranny was already a little weak and didn't want to destroy it. Got the car up to about 40, got on it a little, car made boost then back fired. Eased off and then got back on it again thinking it was cold made a loud bang, car was dead! Wouldn't start, thinking that the time chain let loose? Hopefully the valves didn't take a hit???? If it was the chain, guys have any suggestions if I should just go stock or replace it with something different? If I destroyed a cam or valves and head need work, any suggestion for that as well? Too much invested in the car at this point to walk away from it. Want to keep it a daily driver, so I don't want anything too radical.
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  9. #9 Re: Z7 Install help 
    youtu.be/xhrBDcQq2DM FoSHO99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARFF22 View Post
    Got the shorter dog bones and poly bushings for everything, doesn't vibrate too, too much, but definitely more noticeable than stock. The engine does not move at all! Rev it and it stays put, and the shorter dog bones made plenty of room for the down pipe, no more issues with the brake booster.
    Now for the bad news, had a problem with the manual boost controller, can not get it to adjust the boost at all? It is stuck at 15psi? No matter what I adjust it too, stays at 15psi so I am totally baffled?!?! Hooking it up is pretty straight forward, just can't figure it out? But now for the really bad news! Took the car out for a couple passes, car seemed to drive ok. Took it a little easy because the Tranny was already a little weak and didn't want to destroy it. Got the car up to about 40, got on it a little, car made boost then back fired. Eased off and then got back on it again thinking it was cold made a loud bang, car was dead! Wouldn't start, thinking that the time chain let loose? Hopefully the valves didn't take a hit???? If it was the chain, guys have any suggestions if I should just go stock or replace it with something different? If I destroyed a cam or valves and head need work, any suggestion for that as well? Too much invested in the car at this point to walk away from it. Want to keep it a daily driver, so I don't want anything too radical.
    15psi is not taking it easy first of all, lol. But that's pretty unfortunate.

    Where were you getting the 15psi from? a boost guage or just from scanning the car? The map sensor on the car maxes at 14.7psi or something, past that and you need a boost gauge. How do you have the boost controller hooked up? I don't think it's a good idea to run 15psi on mostly a stock motor and a canned tune as well, what are you using for tuning and what was the knock at?
    2001 GTP PT61 Turbo, E85, Stock Motor
    2011 Chevy Cruze MT6 1.4L Turbo
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  10. #10 Re: Z7 Install help 
    Donating Users ARFF22's Avatar
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    Yeah, I hear ya, I was not looking at putting 15 lbs of boost into it first time out. I was hoping to run anywhere between and 6 to 9 lbs of boost, but since the manual boost controller was not working correctly we took it out anyways. Whats done is done and I have too much invested in the car to walk away. Installed a boost gauge so I can see the vacuum and boost levels, car is in the shop across the river, will have to take a photo of the manual boost controller hook up and post it later. I'm more concerned on what broke in the engine. Hopefully its nothing major?!?!? Leaning towards the timing chain because it was a quick bang and the engine instantly cut out with no other noises, will update what I find as we tear into it.
    Has anyone ever broke a timing chain before?
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  11. #11 Re: Z7 Install help 
    Donating Users ARFF22's Avatar
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    So as it turns out, the timing chain is in OK, but I stripped the teeth off the cam shaft gear? Only thing I can think of is the age and mileage on the engine and I guess that was the weakest part of the system. The cams are also damaged due to them rolling over after the gear went, not sure about the valves and pistons yet? Anyone know how stout these engines are? Is there a lot of room there where maybe they didn't get damaged? Since the cams have to be replaced, any suggestions on what I should replace them with? Was trying to keep the car a daily driver and get reasonable gas mileage, any suggestions would be appreciated.
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