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I can get you pics of Nitrous if you want, doesnt mean anything though.
I can get pics of anything else as well, doesn't mean this isn't sitting in my lap right now.
I'm still waiting for the day that ItHurtz says anything meaningful and helpful.
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If I wanted to hear sarcasm and bad comedy I'd watch a Dane Cook skit.
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I wish you lived in MN and I could line up with you in my turbo L67 haha haha 😁😁😗
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So I've been doing a lot of research and I can't decide what UIM, TB, & MAF combo I want to use. Has anybody used an L36 UIM on a turbo setup, hopefully not with explosive results?
Someone mentioned using an LS7 MAF, has anyone successfully used/tuned one? The small amount of research I've found seems to indicate they are a bit touchy and can be difficult to tune. How much boost is the LT1 Maf good for without a mini afc?
I have two different cars, this one is an L36. I need to make a signature, lol.
plug TB coolant holes with 1/4" npt, remove side cover and use a 4.5" grinders 1/4" wheel to grind a 5/16ths deep 1/4" wide trough through the divider to restore coolant flowuse stock tb/maf, use afc scaling if your able to hit close to 11khz
inspect the area around the EGr stovepipe near the TB coolant passages, if there's any evidence of erosion/overheating at least plug the tb coolant ports and egr
this is your warning vet, dont come back.
your not funny nor are you wanted around here. keep it up.
yes scott edited your crap post. now contribute or stfu!
Last edited by Scottydoggs; 09-19-2016 at 08:42 AM.
Or because you couldn't make up your mind and blew up too many motors but whatever ya know.
You brought alot of the drama on yourself anyway.
So I've been trying to decide on exhaust manifolds. I should just change the thread title to Mitch's Neverending Turbo Build Questions.
For the front it seems that the ZZP Plog is my only option, but from what I've read it is definitely worth it.
For the rear there seem to be a couple different options but I haven't been able to find anything that seems to indicate what works best. I've seen some that have kept the stock rear manifold and turned the tube on the #6 cylinder, which makes sense, but I'm not very good at fabricating so I would have to pay someone to weld it. ZZP has the turbo rear plog but that would require relocating the wastegate since I have the Cartuning kit. The third option would be the ZZP NA Rear Plog that still has the downpipe opening for the wastegate perch. Of course I could just leave it alone, especially if none of these choices make much difference anyway.
I measured the ID of the pipes on the Cartuning crossover they are about 1 7/8, so a manifold any bigger than that likely won't make much difference. My eventual goal is 350 - 400 hp.
Those of you that have done any of these or remember folks that did, what worked best or was most cost effective?
For 350-400hp, there is no reason to run anything other than stock manifolds.
Get the front plog and leave the factory rear, you won't need better that that for a very long time.
Wait for Black Friday and get the rear NA plog cheaper, I got it for $190-$200 last year.
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