Just got a turbo kit, couple quick questions

**SgtMarshal** · 08-24-2016

Originally Posted by NebTurboST5

Why would he need a 2 bar map...the computer is not mapped out for those values...and the cartuning tune is **** out of the box

I figured the 1 bar map sensor would be less effective for boost, and of course the tune would need to be adjusted for the different values.

**Mitch R** · 08-24-2016

Ok, so I am very seriously considering buying a tuner and seeing what I can do. You guys convinced me to give it a shot. I don't really want to spend the money on a hpt one though just for one car. What are the major differences between hpt and dhp? Is there any reason I can't buy a used one? What should I look out for?

**Scottydoggs** · 08-24-2016

dhp is out of business, so theres no support. but its free to use on w body cars only. a new interface is only 250. hpt will run up to 500 iirc

where hpt is thriving and improving yearly. and you can tune many other cars with it. but you need to pay for credits to unlock the cars your tuning.

used works and is cheaper.

either tuner will get the job done for you. dhp is just a lot cheaper.

**SgtMarshal** · 08-24-2016

when used hp tuners come up for sale, sometimes they don't have any credits left, and those ones aren't worth buying because you only save 100-150 bucks. a new one will run 500 for the standard or 680 for a pro. the only real difference is that the pro has an input that you can use to get data from sensors not part of the engines obd2 system, like a wideband. they both come with 8 credits, so you could tune 4 cars without buying more credits. the hp tuner is easier to learn, set up and use. I started with a dhp, then sold it and bought an hp tuner. the hp tuner has some features the dhp doesn't have, like when you make a mass air flow sensor calibration and your fuel trims need to relearn, when the hp tuner is used, the relearn is rapid, like within a few minutes. with the dhp, it can take up to an hour of driving.

**Scottydoggs** · 08-24-2016

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

when the hp tuner is used, the relearn is rapid, like within a few minutes. with the dhp, it can take up to an hour of driving.

perhaps longer then that lol the time it takes for the trims to learn is the biggest draw back to dhp. if you own the tuner, theres no sense in rushing it. make your changes, drive it normal for a few days scan and adjust.

everyone has ants in the pants and wants it tuned in a day. thats not the best practice with dhp.

and as far as tuning goes. theres very few things to change and the changes are small. for the most part.

**Mitch R** · 08-25-2016

I've been searching and have seen a couple posts that dhp sometimes likes to brick pcms if it gets interrupted or fails to finish writing for some reason, does hpt have this same problem? How much easier to learn on hpt are we talking?

Also, is an Hv3 insert worth it?

**chrsmi1** · 08-25-2016

Yes the hv3 is worth it. And don't half ass a turbo build by having someone else, who probably doesn't give a damn about you car, tune it. Buy a tuner, do some reading and do it yourself

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 08-25-2016

You can brick a computer with DHP and HPT. DHP is pretty problem free for the most part, they run into issues with 04+ cars and aftermarket audio equipment it seems.

DHP has the advantage of being able to do BIN swaps so you can plug in stuff for running boost. HPT can't change that stuff but can still be made to work.

**Scottydoggs** · 08-25-2016

Originally Posted by Mitch R

I've been searching and have seen a couple posts that dhp sometimes likes to brick pcms if it gets interrupted or fails to finish writing for some reason, does hpt have this same problem? How much easier to learn on hpt are we talking?

Also, is an Hv3 insert worth it?

bricking a pcm is a right of passage lol rule one of tuning, you get a spare pcm asap just in case. 04 and 05 cars with dhp its best to use a of board tuner rig, it bypasses the cars electronics.

**Mitch R** · 08-25-2016

Alright well its a 99 so I shouldn't have any concerns then. So because of the bin swap ability dhp might be best for my needs? Can either or both remove the security/vats?

Thanks for being so patient and answering all of my questions.

**Scottydoggs** · 08-25-2016

i have a dhp, pretty sure you can turn the security off all the way. not sure about hpt tho. i dont dabble with it at all.

**SgtMarshal** · 08-25-2016

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i have a dhp, pretty sure you can turn the security off all the way. not sure about hpt tho. i dont dabble with it at all.

I haven't messed with vats, but I've seen the file, so I could change it if I needed.

**Swiggles** · 08-25-2016

Having tuned with both go with hpt, it's more user friendly and customer service is pretty good.

Hv3 is helpful, I have a new l26 one for sale. You might also want to consider upgrading to an l26 upper intake manifold, it's aluminum and holds up to the boost better. I might also have a cartuning tune that I can email but I'll have to check when I get home.

**GTPChristopher** · 08-25-2016

I'd highly recommend the HV3 insert. I have a L67 bottom end & heads, and L26 lower and upper manifolds (with HV3) installed. I could only turn up the boost to 9psi because the MAF was almost maxed out. Had 42# injectors but had to swap them out for 60# because the duty cycle was getting a little high. With 60# injectors, fuel logs, fuel pump rewire kit, and high flow fuel filter, my (new) stock replacement pump is doing just fine. Still have an upgraded one but my tune guy said there was no need to install it (until I up the boost). I installed an intercooler with in/out temp sensors, and when I'm raging on it, the temperature drop is 80-90 degrees. I know a guy here in the Twin Cities that will street tune it. Haven't gone to the dyno yet. I wanna turn up the boost first

**Mitch R** · 08-26-2016

Originally Posted by Swiggles

Having tuned with both go with hpt, it's more user friendly and customer service is pretty good.

Hv3 is helpful, I have a new l26 one for sale. You might also want to consider upgrading to an l26 upper intake manifold, it's aluminum and holds up to the boost better. I might also have a cartuning tune that I can email but I'll have to check when I get home.

One thing leads to another lol. If I upgrade the UIM then I need a different TB or an adapter. Someone mentioned upgrading the maf to an LT1, what else would I need for that and is there a specific vehicle that works best for that?

**GTPChristopher** · 08-26-2016

Oh yes, it never ends lol! I'm running my L67 (2000 GTP) TB body with the L26 upper manifold. I purchased an adapter plate from ZZP and it works perfect. My stock MAF almost maxed out so I'm stuck at 9psi until I upgrade to an external MAF. I've read that the PCM needs to be tuned for an external MAF upgrade. Haven't done that yet so maybe else could chime in on this? ZZP sells an external MAF kit that comes with everything. I would HIGHLY suggest running an intercooler. I started out with no intercooler, and after installing it, it made a HUGE difference.

**Scottydoggs** · 08-26-2016

you can get a n* tb and maf for like 20 bucks at the junk yard...why give zzp your money? yes the pcm needs to be tuned for the maf change.

**GTPChristopher** · 08-26-2016

I like Scotty's idea better. Why not save a few bucks when possible?

**SgtMarshal** · 08-26-2016

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

you can get a n* tb and maf for like 20 bucks at the junk yard...why give zzp your money? yes the pcm needs to be tuned for the maf change.

some people have had bad luck with the LQ4 maf sensor and turbocharged applications. you could use an LT1 style maf, but it's old technology. the LS7 maf is a card style and would work better. another option is the mini afc, that zzp sells.