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Ticking sounds from 2001 GTP

BrentHamm

BrentHamm

New member
My son's 2001 GTP started making a ticking sound today. Gets faster with more rpms. When driving it seems to go away under 1,500 RPMs.

Here is a link to a video with the sound.

Fingers crossed that it's nothing to serious.


http://youtu.be/DPSZjkjle80
 


Hmm...i checked the oil earlier..and did not notice anything..but was not looking specifically for that either.
But will look more closely in the morning. Thanks!
 
If oil looks good... Grab a screw driver longer one or mech stethascope and touch the metal end on coupler head ect. It sound kind of like my flex plate did so crawl under by oil pan to the driver side of it and put your ear near that plastic cover it may sound from there. But if oil is sparkly that calls for pulling head off. Im actually fixing flex plate at the moment. Good luck
 
Actually if the oil is sparkly then you get to install a new short block as a bearing (or more) is toast. Pulling the head won't help you here, unless it's to put it on a used shortblock.

OP- Wipe the oil from the stick onto a WHITE towel and check it for junk. Sometimes the metal background of it being on the dipstick and make it appear differently. Same goes for trans fluid.

And turn off the A/C on the next video so it doesn't mask some other sound. My .02- sounds like a rod knock starting.
 
i also heard the a/c turn off and on, does it make that noise when the a/c is off? could be the compressor clutch is bad, or the dreaded spun bearing.
 


Ticking can also be an exhaust leak such as cracked downpipe, bad gasket, cracked manifold or EGR tube. I chased a tick for awhile that was the EGR tube gasket. With an exhaust leak you can typically find the general area it is coming from such as front of the engine, rear passanger or front passanger.

How many miles on the motor?
 
So..removed the the belts, no difference. Checked oil again, looks ok. Also tried it with/without air on, no difference.

Have not tried some of the other things mentioned here but will.

Thanks for all the tips. Still hope it's nothing to serious. (The rusted out rocker panals costed alot to fix...would hate to spend more)
 
Father in-law and son pulled the motor out today. Nothing funny in the pan. So far they have not found the source. Maybe did not need to pull the motor out...
 
check the flywheel over real good they like to crack, and you kinda need to pull the engine or trans, or at least separate them so you can get in there.
 
If the ticking is still there with the engine out, then you know its just a loud watch :-) Seriously, if you took the time to pull the entire engine, you may as well send out to a competent machine shop to check the crank and replace the bearings. Unfortunately I also recently spun a bearing. Started out as a simple tick.
 


If the lower end is bad, you'll save more in the end by just getting a low mile longblock and swapping your accesories onto it as the machine shop has to do more than just stuff new bearings in the bottom end on these motors (align bore, etc..) Its just not worth it to most people. If you get lucky and score a complete engine then you have spare parts from your old one to keep onhand and use when something breaks. Then you don't have to go out and buy it.
 
Well if just spun a rod bearing then replace the all the rod bearings. As long as no damage was done youll be fine.
 
You cannot "just replace the rod bearings" on these motors w/o doing some machine work to be sure everything is straight otherwise the "rebuilt" bottom end will come apart shortly. And if a bearing spun the crank has to come out to be checked for damage to the journals which involves taking all the rod caps off anyway. The rod bolts are TTY and not reuseable so you have to buy new ones. So with the cost of replacement rod and main bearings, rod bolts, machine work to align bore the block, machine shop labor to reassemble everything vs. just getting a used short or longblock its really not worth the effort/money, unless you are really dead set on having the matching engine that came w/ the car.
 
i didnt spin a bearing but did replace to rod bearings without machining anything, and i know your not supposed to but reused to rod bolts and had no issues. i busted 3 pistons but that was unrelated.

check out car-part.com for engines at junkyards near you.
 
Arggh. Piston is burnt, blue, sleeve is scorched. Not good at all. Not sure what to do now. This car has been a disaster for us. First the rusted out rockers..that we just fixed..and now this..like just a few tanks of gas later.
 


Not sure what to do. What engines could be dropped in? I assume if i find a non supdercharged 3.8 it would work?
 
Nope.

Dont buy a NA motor, you cant do that unless you know how to tune for the high compression motor. And alot of other thing.

Start checking junkyards and carpart.com and craigslist for L67/L32 motors.
 
Well..bought a donor 2001 GTP with less miles than this one had. Was t-boned, so motor should be good. Going in later this week if all goes well.
 
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