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How to drain

DirtDog

DirtDog

New member
So I am changing the type of coolant I use in my engine after doing some extensive reading and searching on it. I have been told that there is a drain somewhere on the engine other than the radiator one that is meant for draining almost all coolant from engine. Does anyone have an ideal as to where this drain plug is on the engine block?

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Not sure there is one on the 5.3, on the 3.8 you could remove a knock sensor and drain most of the block.

I would just remove the rad hoses and drain the rad.
 
ahhhh 5.3 nvm then...

This be what i did for 3.8
heli plug on drivers side of rad.
You wont get all of it, but what i did was mix in some 50/50 let it run for a few then re drain.
Done.
 
I've been searching and I found a pic on ls4 forum off some manual that says there's one on both sides of engine specifically designed for draining. But in my GM repair manual I can't seem to find them. I want to do a through flushing of the system to get all the old orange out.

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if your changing fluid types, you want to do more then drain the old coolant, you want to flush it clean, then use the new brand of coolant.
 
I got this stuff from oreillys that after u drain the old coolant and flush several times with water to where only water is in the system u pour it in and run it for 100-150 miles then drain flush several more times and then add the new coolant. Just would like to find those drains so I can completely get as much old as possible out

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well if your flushing it, you dont need to drain it really.

take your T stat out, and then put the housing back on, then take the upper hose off the rad, open the rad cap, start the car, coolant will pour from the upper hose.

have a hose handy, when the rad gets real low on coolant, put the hose in the rad, run it till clear water comes out the upper hose. then add your flush cleaner, drive it, do this again, to flush out that crap. after you got clear water again, turn the hose off, and run it till the water stops coming out the hose, then shut the car off, add your new coolant to the rad, and put the t stat back in. put the hose back on the rad, top off bleed it if you got one of them things, and off you go.
 
Hmmm...that does sound ally simplier. I'll do it that way. I guess since I'll have to take t-stat out might as well replace it anyways. They ain't to expensive. I just don't have access to a water hose is the only problem with doing it that way....or I could wait till summer and do it when I'm home

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you can get a coolant tester to see how cold its still good for, quite cheap really, 10 bucks or so.

but being your in the south im sure you could wait till summer time.
 
scottydoggs said:
you can get a coolant tester to see how cold its still good for, quite cheap really, 10 bucks or so.

but being your in the south im sure you could wait till summer time.
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I've actually already got a coolant tester. It was cheap and simple as heck to use. I just don't have a water hose to do it the way u stated to above unless I'm at home in TN

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Pardon my ignorance, but on my 3.8 if I want to change the t-stat, will any coolant be lost? I believe I have a cooler t-stat than stock and its throwing a code.
 


LS1GTP said:
Pardon my ignorance, but on my 3.8 if I want to change the t-stat, will any coolant be lost? I believe I have a cooler t-stat than stock and its throwing a code.
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Its all good. On the 3.8 yes u will loose some but not much. The t-stat is on the upper rad hose exiting the engine

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Found it finally. I'll post up the pick of location of drain bolt in a few minutes. Just in case anyone else ever needs the info

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uploadfromtaptalk1356398288628.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1356398301646.jpg

Under the headers on front of engine it looks like to me

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marines542 said:
Found it finally from gpona. I'll post up the pick of location of drain bolt in a few minutes. Just in case anyone else ever needs the info

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Yes thank u for helping to. Its exactly what I needed lol
And I left the original up there

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