BillBoost37
New member
There are some different fittings etc when talking about braided fuel lines. This post is a basic how to and was done on a Bonneville. The steps are basdically the same though.
Got most of the parts from Summit. they seemed to have the best prices.
To go from hard metal lines to fuel rails.
(Call your local Swagelok dealer for these two parts)
Swagelok for the 5/16" tube adapter to -6AN is part # SS-500-6-6AN
Swagelok for the 3/8" tube adapter to -6AN is part # SS-600-6-6AN
Russel RUS-640850 Fuel rail fitting
Russel RUS-640860 Fuel rail fitting
EAR-981506ERL Fitting, Coupler, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each 2 $5.90
SUM-220687 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each 2 $25.90
SUM-220690 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each 2 $9.76
SUM-230610 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 10 ft. Length, Each 1 $36.95
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Keep in mind that this is on a Bonneville and the Swageloks were not used in the below pictures.
If you want to run the lines all the way back to the filter and nylon return these are the fittings you need:
Fuel Filter and Return Line Fittings:
Fuel Filter (16mm x 1.5) to -6 AN
-6 AN to 5/16 in. Female Spring Lock[/
I should have looked under my hood a little more and then I would have ordered one fitting differently. A straight piece instead of a bend for the supply line. Then the regulator would clear the line to the rail for supply. Either way.. it's fairly easy to do and looks amazing.
From this
To this
A couple hose connections
Cut a line or two
In the 96-99 B'ville the lines run back to the firewall, to the passenger side behind the strut (no f'n room there) and that is where they convert to metal lines. Unclipping a line holder at the back and lower area of the engine bay I was able to get enough movement to gently pull the lines out from behind the strut one at a time. This gave me enough room to cut the old plastic off, attached the tube to AN fittings and hook them to the braided line which I ran along the firewall before connecting to the new fittings. Pushed the line back in and pulled the excess SS line back toward the rails. Made the rail connections and hoped for the best when I pressurized it the first time.
No leaks and pressure is right where it was before. Only difference is no nylon lines to possibly kink.
On a W body, it's relatively easy to get at the lines near the master cylinder. On go the swagelocks, a couple female hose ends with the hose already attached, then run the hose to the fuel rail. At this point Connect another end on and put the Russell/Earl fuel rail clip piece on and you are all set.
Got most of the parts from Summit. they seemed to have the best prices.
To go from hard metal lines to fuel rails.
(Call your local Swagelok dealer for these two parts)
Swagelok for the 5/16" tube adapter to -6AN is part # SS-500-6-6AN
Swagelok for the 3/8" tube adapter to -6AN is part # SS-600-6-6AN
Russel RUS-640850 Fuel rail fitting
Russel RUS-640860 Fuel rail fitting
EAR-981506ERL Fitting, Coupler, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each 2 $5.90
SUM-220687 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each 2 $25.90
SUM-220690 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each 2 $9.76
SUM-230610 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 10 ft. Length, Each 1 $36.95
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keep in mind that this is on a Bonneville and the Swageloks were not used in the below pictures.
If you want to run the lines all the way back to the filter and nylon return these are the fittings you need:
Fuel Filter and Return Line Fittings:
Fuel Filter (16mm x 1.5) to -6 AN
-6 AN to 5/16 in. Female Spring Lock[/
I should have looked under my hood a little more and then I would have ordered one fitting differently. A straight piece instead of a bend for the supply line. Then the regulator would clear the line to the rail for supply. Either way.. it's fairly easy to do and looks amazing.
From this
To this
A couple hose connections
Cut a line or two
In the 96-99 B'ville the lines run back to the firewall, to the passenger side behind the strut (no f'n room there) and that is where they convert to metal lines. Unclipping a line holder at the back and lower area of the engine bay I was able to get enough movement to gently pull the lines out from behind the strut one at a time. This gave me enough room to cut the old plastic off, attached the tube to AN fittings and hook them to the braided line which I ran along the firewall before connecting to the new fittings. Pushed the line back in and pulled the excess SS line back toward the rails. Made the rail connections and hoped for the best when I pressurized it the first time.
No leaks and pressure is right where it was before. Only difference is no nylon lines to possibly kink.
On a W body, it's relatively easy to get at the lines near the master cylinder. On go the swagelocks, a couple female hose ends with the hose already attached, then run the hose to the fuel rail. At this point Connect another end on and put the Russell/Earl fuel rail clip piece on and you are all set.
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