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Front seal replacement

M

mechanicboy

New member
Does replacing the front crank seal require removing the timing cover and thus another gasket I'd need to purchase? I need to change the water pump and passenger CV so I figured I'd replaced the front seal while I was in there. I don't think it leaking, but between the CV throwing grease, the water pump leaking, and my transmission lower cooler line leaking it's a freaking mess down there so for $12 I'd rather have peace of mind that all the leaks where fixed at once.

Thanks.
 


I'm pretty sure people have said to leave the original seal in there.
Spray brake cleaner all over it and drive it for a coupe days and see if it's leaking. If it's not, don't replace it.
 
i can count on one hand how many times ive seen the oem front seal leak. i have to take off my shoes to count how many ive seen leak after someone replaces it.

replace wp, dont go ape**** with the rtv, rtv bolt threads, replace elbows.

i just squirt new grease into my cv's with a needle fitting every oil change. over 60k and 3 winters with blown boots.

no ****s given
 
Turbocharged400sbc said:
i can count on one hand how many times ive seen the oem front seal leak. i have to take off my shoes to count how many ive seen leak after someone replaces it.

replace wp, dont go ape**** with the rtv, rtv bolt threads, replace elbows.

i just squirt new grease into my cv's with a needle fitting every oil change. over 60k and 3 winters with blown boots.

no ****s given
Click to expand...

Sounds like I wont be replacing the front seal unless I know for sure it's leaking.

I want to replace the CV, it's only $40 and it's making a mess with the grease flying everywhere. The previous owner said he repacked it 2 times, maybe that's why there's so much everywhere.
 
get like 3 cans of de greaser and hit a self wash car wash bay and use the hot water high pressure spray gun after the de greaser sets in.
 


before you do make damn sure the engine mount isnt sagging, most times i find the drivers boot popped off at the clamp because under wot/hard bumps the cv clamp can hit and subframe and release tension/knock the boot off.

kneel down and look at the valve cover lines across your radiator support, my guess is youll see its the leaning tower of power if the mounts gone
 
If...you replace the seal, you are asking for a leak. Don't pull a Scott... look at the balancer if you decide to pull the seal.
 
I told you not to touch it.. you did.. you leaked so much you built the first 3800 drip shield. Then did a seal and didn't look at el balancero.. did another after that hahahahahha
 


ScottyDoggs said:
get like 3 cans of de greaser and hit a self wash car wash bay and use the hot water high pressure spray gun after the de greaser sets in.
Click to expand...

I have one at work, I'll use it. On another note, I noticed today that the alternator doesn't like to put out much voltage when cold, is that normal is should I expect to replace the contacts soon?

ScottyDoggs said:
moral of the story is, dont touch the seal.

in my case im sure it would have leaked any way.
Click to expand...

LOL, nice work.
 
Like above.. DO NOT TOUCH. I went through 3 seals (I have an extra one in the garage, brand new if you want it). 3rd one Finally stopped it leaking. ugh.
 
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