Thread: Project LQ4 - V8 S10 - Sold.

i have a industrial size shoe horn ill let ya borrow lol

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i have a industrial size shoe horn ill let ya borrow lol

That's the running joke I use whenever I tell someone about the project and they ask if it will fit.

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

I'm willing to bet there will not be enough space for the ac stuff.

According to what I've read, just a small notch in the frame for the compressor. I'll know for sure in a little bit. I'm going to do everything I can to keep the AC!

Been so long I couldn't remember how this thing started so I re-read the whole thread just now. Pretty smart how you're going about this.

I like the S-10 you got. You need the seats in my shed. Love rubber floor mats, they make good sense to me. That engine will do ridiculous things even N/A if you start with heads and cam. Boost and time busy tuning is probably more your style.

Comments I can't resist making because I am whut I am-

Rust is to me what greasy is to you. Paint the frame. Paint the inside of the bed and PDR that bed ding and voila its the nicest S-10 body in town. I'd resist the urge to go beyond wheels and tint for appearance mods. You ain't got a hair on yer butt if you don't go manual trans.

In light of your future plans and to facilitate the current one, consider whacking away the firewall / toe board areas and fabbing your own. A light but rigid tubular custom core support is also a thought. With your parlay skills, you could go Vintage Air and ditch the underhood box. If we're gonna go utilitarian, lets embrace it fully and make haulin ass easy as possible. Getting rid of everything then putting back only what you want is sometimes easier than taking measures to work around a bunch of things. Plumb and wire it like a street rod rather than an OE install. Just thinking out loud here and I'll stop now. Its an interesting project. Money saved on essentials in one area opens the door to spendage in other key areas. Rearend should be close to top of list, yep.

^ Awesome post! I'm going to break it down ad give it the attention it deserves!

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Been so long I couldn't remember how this thing started so I re-read the whole thread just now. Pretty smart how you're going about this.

Thanks. Yeah, originally I was just looking for a 5.3 for the '84 K10. Things kinda spiraled outta control.

I like the S-10 you got. You need the seats in my shed.

Leather buckets from a Bravada?

Love rubber floor mats, they make good sense to me.

Me too. It should clean up pretty decent. I plan to pull the bench and the mat to really clean the cab.

That engine will do ridiculous things even N/A if you start with heads and cam. Boost and time busy tuning is probably more your style.

Yeah. I'd say you're right. I really want to learn more about tuning. Maximize the full potential of the NA setup while I squirrel away funds for the turbo build. Then go nuts!

Comments I can't resist making because I am whut I am-

Rust is to me what greasy is to you. Paint the frame. Paint the inside of the bed and PDR that bed ding and voila its the nicest S-10 body in town.

Agreed. I'm sure the bed will come off at some point for a fuel pump upgrade. That's when I'll detail the rear frame. Probably just leave the ding in there. Adds character. Plus, money spent on PDR is money not spent on turbo stuff!

What's your opinion on Ospho?

I'd resist the urge to go beyond wheels and tint for appearance mods. You ain't got a hair on yer butt if you don't go manual trans.

I've never really been one for appearance mods. While I agree the experience of driving a manual trans is more fun (yes, I can bang gears ), nothing shifts faster than an auto.

In light of your future plans and to facilitate the current one, consider whacking away the firewall / toe board areas and fabbing your own. A light but rigid tubular custom core support is also a thought. With your parlay skills, you could go Vintage Air and ditch the underhood box. If we're gonna go utilitarian, lets embrace it fully and make haulin ass easy as possible. Getting rid of everything then putting back only what you want is sometimes easier than taking measures to work around a bunch of things. Plumb and wire it like a street rod rather than an OE install. Just thinking out loud here and I'll stop now. Its an interesting project. Money saved on essentials in one area opens the door to spendage in other key areas.

You know... I'm sure it will be more work, but one of my other goals is to have it look as close to stock as possible. I want to open the hood and fool (average) people into thinking GM actually made a couple of factory V8's, and I got one of them. All dash gauges working, PCM controlled fans. All that junk. I guess that's just my style. Oh, and have you seen the prices on those vintage air setups? Cha-ching! This poor boy can't afford that. I have to make what's there work.

Rearend should be close to top of list, yep.

For sure. If it ever cools down here, I'm going to start hunting the pick-a-part for a 3.77(ish) Ford 8.8 with LSD.



Keep the comments coming!

Have you looked into hood clearance? If you're wanting it to look stock, at least from the outside, you might run into an issue there.

Maybe some low-profile engine/trans mounts? otherwise you might need a scoop/cowl, which is totally going to ruin your plans for "factory V8 look"

Just bedliner it, more character to prove that it's a "work" truck, not meant for racing... lol

From what I have seen, I'm pretty sure the truck intake will fit with stock hood. He could always run a car intake, but then he will have to change his accessory drive to clearance the TB since the car intake is much shorter then the truck intake (I think). I think the OP is correct in saying that all you need to do is notch for compressor clearance. He could also run a high mount conversion too if he didn't want to notch the rail.

Here is a good thread to look into if you haven't already. Pretty detailed on what you will need and run into while doing this swap.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/l...mation-390967/

Once you start the swap, give some detailed info. I really have been leaning towards an extreme blazer with a 6.0 swap once I have the funds to do so.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

Have you looked into hood clearance? If you're wanting it to look stock, at least from the outside, you might run into an issue there.

Maybe some low-profile engine/trans mounts? otherwise you might need a scoop/cowl, which is totally going to ruin your plans for "factory V8 look"

Just bedliner it, more character to prove that it's a "work" truck, not meant for racing... lol

Hood clearance will be close, no doubt. Might have to do some cutting on the intake and/or hood bracing. We'll see...

I love the look of the sprayed in bed liner, but there are so many holes in the bed. I don't think it would be good. I can't do one of those drop in plastic liners. I hate those things. I'm just going to toneau is for now, and hide the mess. I'd like to eventually find a new box. I really like the look of the step sides.

Plus, I'd also like to have a nice sound system. The only way to fit a decent pair of subs is to run a blow through setup mounted in the bed, and it would have to be covered. I would have zero guilt about cutting a giant hole in the cab and that janky box. $1000 truck...

Originally Posted by Below Average Joe

From what I have seen, I'm pretty sure the truck intake will fit with stock hood. He could always run a car intake, but then he will have to change his accessory drive to clearance the TB since the car intake is much shorter then the truck intake (I think). I think the OP is correct in saying that all you need to do is notch for compressor clearance. He could also run a high mount conversion too if he didn't want to notch the rail.

Here is a good thread to look into if you haven't already. Pretty detailed on what you will need and run into while doing this swap.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/l...mation-390967/

Once you start the swap, give some detailed info. I really have been leaning towards an extreme blazer with a 6.0 swap once I have the funds to do so.

Notching the rail gives me an excuse to finally run 220 into the garage and buy a welder.

I actually have that page bookmarked. Lots of good stuff there.

I'll post as much info as I can, but be sure to ask questions also!

I've seen some nice setups with subs, some mounted to the underside of the dash, under seats, inside seats, and even some mounted to the inside of the roof.

Plus, with the welder you can fill all those little holes. Lol

Bravada buckets, nope. Thats whut you need though!

Agreed, looks don't affect going fast.

My across the street neighbor has the same white S-10 but the bed tilts like a dump truck. Haven't seen another but tripped me out when I saw it up.

Ospho I have not used. At least if I did I don't remember. I use Eastwood rust converter normally and have also used Picklex which works good too.

Eastwood rust converter followed by their encapsulator with no paint is actually really durable and has a pleasant soft black look. Minimal work. I can only speak on what I've tried though. Just forget naval jelly and Rust-Mort, lol. weak stuff.

Since Ronnie Sox passed away, yes an auto can shift faster

I can appreciate your wanting to generate an OE look, but that is out the window when the hairdryer goes in. Not unlike a W GP, setting the end performance goal at the beginning can sidestep a lot of work and expense. But you know what you're doing and I'd back whatever play you pick.

Those 8.8s are the hot ticket. Now heres another attempt to tip over your plan... Why would you not do this with a 4x4 S-10? Or is that stage 3, when you drop the tweaked setup in one of those? Imagine the rip-snort factor on that

Run without a passenger seat and put your thumps over there along with the obligatory on board tuning lab.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

I've seen some nice setups with subs, some mounted to the underside of the dash, under seats, inside seats, and even some mounted to the inside of the roof.


Plus, with the welder you can fill all those little holes. Lol

We'll see. The sound system is like phase three. Gotta get the NA setup working, then turbo, then sound and appearance.

Filling holes... Ugh, tedious. Just hide that mess.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

I use Eastwood rust converter normally and have also used Picklex which works good too.

Eastwood rust converter followed by their encapsulator with no paint is actually really durable and has a pleasant soft black look. Minimal work. I can only speak on what I've tried though. Just forget naval jelly and Rust-Mort, lol. weak stuff.

Noted. Thanks!

Since Ronnie Sox passed away, yes an auto can shift faster

Just watched a couple YouTubes. Impressive!

But you know what you're doing and I'd back whatever play you pick.

Pfft. I'm just faking my way through.

Those 8.8s are the hot ticket. Now heres another attempt to tip over your plan... Why would you not do this with a 4x4 S-10? Or is that stage 3, when you drop the tweaked setup in one of those? Imagine the rip-snort factor on that

Weight, complexity, and I already have a 4x4. I have seen a couple AWD builds, but I'm not sure how they stand up to higher horse power levels. What I do know is, 4L80e + Ford 8.8 is just about bullet proof until you get to stupid high power levels.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Run without a passenger seat and put your thumps over there along with the obligatory on board tuning lab.

But then I wouldn't be able to roll with my bride on date night. She volunteered to hold the laptop, so I'm all set there!

Alright then. Hey whats this about buying a 220V welder to notch the frame? Thats turbo money and you could get r dun with one of those hundred dollar new flux core jobs, I'd bet. Don't know where on the frame you're talking about though.

She could sit on a big icy IC box and scoop fresh ice on it with the other hand, lol. Naaawwww... gotta have your happy "ballast" across the cab on Sat nites

I must have spaced the holes in the bed, scoping pics on my tablet. Under the rail liner or bed mat, IMO. Good spray-on liner is too high, the rest is a joke. Tonneaus are also high. Be the freak and make a wood kit, old school. If'n you give a hoot about the bed. The step beds look goofy to me fwiw.

I place the probability that you'll be wanting Extreme bumpers and stuff within 2 yrs... above 50%

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Be the freak and make a wood kit, old school.

This^^^^

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

I place the probability that you'll be wanting Extreme bumpers and stuff within 2 yrs... above 50%

I can already see the WTB ad. lol

"looking for extreme bumpers, for my extreme truck that I did an extreme LQ4 swap into, that makes extreme power and now it needs to look extreme to match the extreme attitude it has. Extreme."

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Alright then. Hey whats this about buying a 220V welder to notch the frame? Thats turbo money and you could get r dun with one of those hundred dollar new flux core jobs, I'd bet. Don't know where on the frame you're talking about though.

You know... I had one of those 110 Lincoln units. It was okay I guess, but if I'm going to get into frame work I really want the 220 burn.

Don't know where on the frame you're talking about though.

Found a picture. I think this guy got a little carried away, but you get the general idea.

I place the probability that you'll be wanting Extreme bumpers and stuff within 2 yrs... above 50%

Maybe.

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

This^^^^

I can already see the WTB ad. lol

"looking for extreme bumpers, for my extreme truck that I did an extreme LQ4 swap into, that makes extreme power and now it needs to look extreme to match the extreme attitude it has. Extreme."

I mean... Possibly in the future. But for now, we gotta keeper sleeper!

Duly noted on the welder. Right on! On the frame... yeah I'd say that guy did get carried away. In the spirit of spirited discussion and not intending to be contrary- Dude that pic almost looks to me like the compressor would almost clear without notching. You should see some of the clearances on the hot rods at work, jeez. Whats I'm trying to say is if theres just one or two conflict spots like at the ends of the compressor, torch rail til it glows in that spot and make calculated sledge hammer blows. Could look factory if done right. If it needs more than that, I am envisioning a way to do a notch without adding any new metal that could work. Be interesting to see just whats up when you get there. Fun discussion and build at any rate

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

If it needs more than that, I am envisioning a way to do a notch without adding any new metal that could work.

Funny you say that. I was already thinking maybe I could run a slit in the male radius that interferes. Maybe about 10 inches long. The a couple relief cuts perpendicular to the first cut. Then just fold the metal in. Patch the open ends and run a bead on the inside (now a female radius). Basically all the cuts would look like an uppercase "I" laying down.

I did dig out the pressure washer today



Doesn't look a ton better in the picture, but I assure it's way better now.

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Funny you say that. I was already thinking maybe I could run a slit in the male radius that interferes. Maybe about 10 inches long. The a couple relief cuts perpendicular to the first cut. Then just fold the metal in. Patch the open ends and run a bead on the inside (now a female radius). Basically all the cuts would look like an uppercase "I" laying down.

Exactly. OR... if it does need to be bigger... seperate the halves of the rail at the top seam in the interference area of rail, make two appropriate perpendicular slices to just the inner half. Bend up and in, re-shape the flap as needed, trim and re-connect flap at original seam then use the scrap to close up the ends.

Are ya sure theres not a bracket mod or adaptation that could also work? You know you'll go ape with making stuff with a new welder.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Are ya sure theres not a bracket mod or adaptation that could also work? You know you'll go ape with making stuff with a new welder.

There's companies that make compressor relocation kits, but they're stupid expensive. Like, I could (will) buy a welder for what they cost!