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I'm just glad she passed the smoke test!
That's kinda what I was thinking. We don't fight bad grounds , or corrosion in general like you guys do out east. Heck, I think the entire time I owned the Grand Prix I only drove it in the rain 5 times.
Haha! That's funny. See... I can see it working in low speed. Relay 1 feeds power to fan 2 through pin 87. The "ground" wire for fan 2 feeds power to pin 30 on relay 3. Since it is "off", it passes that power through pin 87a to fan 1. Ground side for fan 1 runs to chassis ground. They run in series.
I can't see it working in high speed. The ground for fan 1 in high speed confuses me. Unless... Pin 30 on relay 3 turns to ground in high speed? Yeah... That almost makes sense.
Ug. I wish buddy. That's still weeks away at least.
I'm thinking he meant the other smoke test, the one where grey/white smoke starts pouring out from under the dash because something in a new build was wired wrong.
Ohhhh. You mean the one where you "let the smoke out" when you power it up? Haha! Yeah. All good there. Still don't know if it runs, but at least we're getting power to all the right places without blowing fuses. Full disclosure... My heart did skip a beat the first time I hooked up the code reader and it didn't connect. I knew my serial data line was good. Turns out I blew the PCM fuse. Not sure how, but once I replaced it, she connected.
Here's what I see.
Pin 42 is a ground trigger from pcm.
This connects pin 30 of relay 1 to pin 87 and sends power into fan 2
Power will come out of fan 2 into relay 3 pin 30
That comes out of relay 3 (at rest) on 87A and into Fan 1 which is grounded and should complete the circuit.
LOL! So far, so good!
Oil pressure sender adapter came today. I'll be reusing the old stock S10 sender.
To get at it, I had to take the intake off. Not the worst thing in the world. Only 15 minutes to remove. Plus it will give me a chance (and access) to clean up the harness work back there.
That's when I found out nothing in my toolbox would get the old sensor out. No way a wrench was going around it, and none of my sockets were deep and/or thin enough to go over it. Turns out they make a special tool for them. It was like $11 after tax at O'reilley. I'm sure I'll use it again.
Should work. I'll pull it tomorrow. Family time now.
And that's how my "can I borrow that one tool" collection started
Sensors & special sockets...GRRRRR...What the Fudge...02 sensor=same thing......effin engineers...lol
mechanic buddy had that socket. I used pliers
I only have a couple specialty tools, but the ones I do have, I really like. My favorite being the 4T65e tools.
I've actually been pretty lucky so far. Every O2 I've been able to get with a 7/8" combo wrench.
Ha! Not on this truck.
Got it buttoned back up. Dumped about 8 quarts in and started cranking.... After about 4 rounds of 15 seconds bursts of cranking, it started to build pressure. I was happy to see 40 lbs just while cranking.
Maybe I can get some video of it running tomorrow...
maybe you can do it tonight
TURN KEY! TURN KEY! say like animal the muppet
He turned key to get pressure
we gotta tell him to reconnect either fuel or spark..whichever he disabled.
I'd have to leave the garage open for quite a while to air it out afterwards. I'm done for the night. Daytime video would be better.
Haha! Soon enough. Running through my mental checklist...
Indeed! I don't know how long it usually takes to build pressure, but I was starting to get concerned. About 10 seconds into the last try, she pumped up!
Both. I disconnected all 8 injectors and both coil harnesses. They're all back on now.
Does that cluster have a tach? If not you should definitely swap it out for one that does.
Takes longer than you think to pump up oil on a motor that was apart. Say 2 minutes of cranking on/off for about 15 second intervals. Starter turns it much slower
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