Thread: Project LQ4 - V8 S10 - Sold.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Go ahead and de-crypt that for us willya?

I thought someone would never ask!

The only thing that matters are the first four digits of the second line.

4L10 = 4:10 ratio with limited slip carrier. Should be a stump puller.

Looks like an 8.8 from an exploder or some ford.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Looks like an 8.8 from an exploder or some ford.

Indeed. '99 Eddie Bauer. It's fancy.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Looks like an 8.8 from an exploder or some ford.

I figured this much. 4.10 though woohoo! In an O/D world thats a good thing. Facilitates running bunches of tire.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

I figured this much. 4.10 though woohoo! In an O/D world thats a good thing. Facilitates running bunches of tire.

For sure! Honestly, I was trying to find a 3.73 with a locker, but they were either all lower ratios, non lockers, or inaccessible. This rear got pulled by default. I'm hoping 4:10 is not too short for decent highway speeds. I suppose, worse case scenario, I could pull a 3.73 carrier and pinion for under $100. Coincidentally, the truck that the motor and trans came from had a 4:10 LSD rear also.

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

my wife will be buying a 2006 Ford Exploder, Eddie Bauer edition next week probably, it has the V6, what are the chances it has a 4.10 limited slip rear end?

I think '05 was the last year for the solid axle. (?) Not sure if the same rules apply for the IRS's. I know very little about Ford rear ends, or Fords in general. I researched just enough to know what to look for.

Good deal, except for the c-clips.

Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

Good deal, except for the c-clips.

Yeah. Can't have it all, I guess. At least not for that price.

I did get back out to the yard this afternoon and snagged the axle that previously eluded me. 15 minutes start to finish. Amazing how much more efficient your work is when you're not exhausted and can actually think straight. Under $40 out the door.



Also stopped and talked to a driveshaft guy and rear end guy. Sounds like I should be around $200 for a driveshaft if I bring him a stock one to modify, vs building one from scratch. Rear end guy said $100 flat to shorten the 8.8 if I brought an empty housing and all he had to do was cut, fixture, and weld. For $100, I'm not going to mess with it.

4.10 should be ok, my 03 gmc with the same engine and tranny as you had them. just dont run a tiny wheel tire combo.

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Rear end guy said $100 flat to shorten the 8.8 if I brought an empty housing and all he had to do was cut, fixture, and weld. For $100, I'm not going to mess with it.

That's a great price. Probably be in the $2-300 range up here.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

4.10 should be ok, my 03 gmc with the same engine and tranny as you had them. just dont run a tiny wheel tire combo.

I'd like to run a stock, or close to stock size. That's going to require re-drilling and re-studding the axles and rotors.

Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

That's a great price. Probably be in the $2-300 range up here.

I think he was captivated by my charm.

Made a trip to the trans shop today. Had to return a handful of 4T65e steels. So, rather than sitting on a $32 credit, or waiting 3 weeks for a refund check from the central office, I decided to convert my credit to 4L80e parts. Got an extension housing seal, extension housing bushing, and the improved output shaft case bushing.



I really only needed the extension housing bushing, but the other stuff was cheap insurance.

Whats new this week?

You gotta admit the truck needs a wheel upgrade. If you buy new pairs of same wheels that have the different lug patterns, you might dodge the hassle of altering axles and rotors. Just a thought. I bet sneaking more rubber under the back is gonna be something you'll end up wanting / needing to do without spoiling the sleepy effect. A custom-spec set of black steelies with some sort of utilitarian trim woud give it the right look, IMO.

So, I meant to update this thread yesterday, but photobucket was broken pretty much all day. Here's what I wanted to post yesterday at about 10am... Work hasn't ramped up just yet, so I made a trip to the yard. Scored a driveshaft and flexplate.

Just a plain steel shaft, but it was only $30 and should save me some money at the driveshaft shop. Modifying something is said to be cheaper than making new from nothing. It's out of a 2500HD, so it has the big 1410 U-joints and the proper 32 spline count yoke. Just need to be shortened (I assume). I'll hit it with a wire cup brush, and some paint when I get a chance. I'm thinking white.



And because I need to convert the 80e from 4wd to 2wd, I have the output shaft sitting on a shelf and was able to verify shaft and bushing fit.



Another $52 for a 1410 series flange for a Ford 8.8, and that should do it.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p234..._inch_fem.html

Speaking of converting the 80e from 4wd to 2wd drive... I talked to a guy at a local trans shop. Asked him a ton of questiops, including how he feels about the fancy Kent Moore holding fixture. He said don't bother. He just uses a bucket and flexplate, So, that's my plan!



Haven't done much with the truck lately. Been focused on that 4T65e I'm building, but that should wrap up sometime next week. Then I'll start the 80e conversion. As far as the wheels go, I might do something in the future. Just taking it one step at a time. Whatever I do, It will have to be a common size. I need cheap tires. I think you can guess why. If redrilling the axles and rotors becomes a huge pain I might skip it, but my OCD really struggles with the idea of two different bolt patterns on the same vehicle even if I do run a different size front and rear.

Forgot about the OCD factor, lol. That's probably a good idea scoring the boneyard driveshaft. PB was warning of slowness yesterday but dang if it didn't work perfect for me. Unusual. Just checking for progress, carry on.

I kick myself every time I think about letting the aluminum drive shaft go with the donor truck. Shrug. The steel is supposed to be a lot stronger than aluminum anyway. I guess I can afford a couple pounds from a steel shaft. Not like the truck is a tank.

Semi stripped and fully cleaned the rear today. Probably won't do anything with it for a while, but if I'm going to be tripping over something in my garage, it better at least be clean.

Before



After



Judging by the crust, I'm thinking the pinion seal was leaking for quite a while. No matter, I plan to replace all the seals before it's installed. Seals are cheap.

Nice. Man if you ever end up in a ditch or something (heaven forbid) you might thank yourself for the steely driveshaft. The aluminum ones can be scary when an impact occurs.

They do seem rather fragile. Every aluminum shaft in the yard was massively dented, while the steel ones (while not as pretty) seem to be fine. I guess nothing beats the burly strength of steel.

Factory AL shafts are thin walled aluminum and that's the main reason they dent and break. They are also only rated for 100mph speeds too.

You can buy a thick walled AL driveshaft that would be much stronger. I'd rather have a steel driveshaft though.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Factory AL shafts are thin walled aluminum and that's the main reason they dent and break.

Yeah, driveshaft guy said something like 1/16" wall for gas trucks and maybe 3/32" for the diesel ones.

You can buy a thick walled AL driveshaft that would be much stronger. I'd rather have a steel driveshaft though.

Me too. I have to imagine a high horsepower aluminum shaft would be quite pricey. I think I'll take some of the money I save on custom driveshaft and get a driveshaft loop.