Thread: Post Whoring - 5.5.1 - We have a turd in the punch bowl

I tore my factory transmission down to the driven chains something like 6 times, put a new 4th shaft\clutches in, new TCS, PCS, and a new VB\CP with Sonnax upgrades and such. Then I ended up picking up a JY transmission from a Century (IIRC) and used parts from both transmissions to make one good one. Century transmission had plenty of life left in it, but I used a steel for the second stack of my factory transmission in it, stuff like that. Also picked up some GXP chains, and used the N\A torque converter since it was a LOT lower mileage and higher stall. I'm not 100% satisfied with the new transmission, but at this point I think it's the VB\Channel plate. I kept the one from the Century so I'm going to go through it and swap over what I can from this one. I might even just use the extra separator plate I have instead, since this one is drilled, and I think that might be it.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/boob...00%20GTP/4t65e

Gonna have some fun shoot some targets Sunday


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Originally Posted by Booba5185

I tore my factory transmission down to the driven chains something like 6 times, put a new 4th shaft\clutches in, new TCS, PCS, and a new VB\CP with Sonnax upgrades and such. Then I ended up picking up a JY transmission from a Century (IIRC) and used parts from both transmissions to make one good one. Century transmission had plenty of life left in it, but I used a steel for the second stack of my factory transmission in it, stuff like that. Also picked up some GXP chains, and used the N\A torque converter since it was a LOT lower mileage and higher stall. I'm not 100% satisfied with the new transmission, but at this point I think it's the VB\Channel plate. I kept the one from the Century so I'm going to go through it and swap over what I can from this one. I might even just use the extra separator plate I have instead, since this one is drilled, and I think that might be it.

Woah.

Originally Posted by theaceofspades

Gonna have some fun shoot some targets Sunday


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Steel, paper or "other"?

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Woah.



Steel, paper or "other"?

Plastic jugs with water. Some tannerite. A couple half filled spray paint cans. Lol I have land so I can shoot whatever kind of target and round. Perks of not having to go to the range.


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Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Woah.



Steel, paper or "other"?

Yea, the Century stuff was and is just something to hold me over until I get a 7\8" chain set machined out (gotta get on that, I have it all set up just need the chain and set). I'm also thinking of saving for a new TQ converter and a 300m input shaft, along with new clutches and all that. It'll probably be after I take care of the rocker panel rust though.

What is this rust you guys are always talking about? lol!!

I took a lot of pictures today. One picture of every bore in the valve body. This is just one:


Best tool for auto repair: A camera!

Any bores have too much wear?

I don't think so. None of the valves were scared and there wasn't any grit in there either. I feel good about it.

Hey Navy, totally random (but not really). How much of a PITA was it to change the A/C compressor clutch. Mine is started to make very faint and random sad noises

Not hard at all with the right tool. Jack it up, take the tire off, remove the cover over the pullies and go to town. It just clears the frame/body. You might have to go under the hood to turn the wrenches

ill vouch for its right there with the shield off. it was in the corner of my eye for a few days straight fixing that balancer leak.

Can the puller be rented at AZ? Mine is starting to make some noise, would rather not replace the whole compressor and hassle with have it evaced out and what not.

idk, but this is a much better deal than the tool I bought
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automotive-Air-Conditioning-A-C-Compressor-Clutch-Tool-Kit-Installer-Remover-Set-/371031021906?hash=item56632c1952&item=371031021906 &vxp=mtr

It's cheaper and comes with the clutch holder

I just watched a video of a guy doing one on a different style compressor but it has the same clutch by the looks of it. Looks super simple. Looked on RA, OEM clutches are like 50 bucks so thats not bad vs new compressor + cost of evacing the crap out.

Im gonna check clearances first and adjust if needed, i seen somewhere gap should be like .030 to .015

Yeah you need the tool to gap it as well. The clutches always fail because the return springs loose their tension and the clutch drags. You could adjust the gap a little by pulling it out slightly til it's gapped correctly, but the springs may get worse over time and do it again. Can't hurt to try that first really. Unless only one of the springs failed and it doesnt rest flat and the gap would be different around the clutch. There are a few stops around it. make sure they're pulled all the way in.
Also ours is pressed on, and has a nut as well, although the nut just acts as a safety I guess.



the 3 not straight strips of metal are the springs. The top part with the 3 bumps are the stops. My old one had gaps in its resting position.

It just requires a set a feeler gauges doesn't it? I probably have a bit of time left on my clutch it makes hardly any noise right now. But if it fails I hope it does it whike its still warm lol.

I just eyeball it.
I used feelers the first time and made it too large somehow

I looked at the air gap and it didn't seem like anything was rubbing or uneven but i didn't check all around just from top view, there was what looked like properish gap.

And my grandpa lost his set of feeler so yay new tools can be bought! Thanks for the info navy, don't see why more people don't do it that way vs new compressor.

You can spin the clutch with your hand (just the top part that won't effect the gap) and listen for anything, and watch the gap as it spins around. You can also put a flashlight under it to see the air gap.

I don't know, I've got all the tools to charge the Ac and still wouldn't change the compressor for that lol.