Thread: My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!!

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

new battery cables dont cost all that much.....just saying... when i ran dual batterys in my 03 gmc, i had new cables all over the place. iirc one was 10 foot.

Ugh. Tunnel vision. I'm a dummy. I'll do some research and see what vehicles have a slightly longer NEG cable. $5 for a cable at the PAP. I just need to find one with the integrated chassis ground loop.

Intake is on and torqued. LM7 throttle cable is installed. Going to need some geometry modification. As it is now, I can only get about 50% throttle. A little pedal rod bend or cable ferrule should take care of that. I test fitted the headers. I'm gonna say about 7/10 for fitment. I need to make some clearance on the frame for the primaries and both collectors pretty much dead head into the T-case crossmember. The right O-2 is pointed straight at the front driveshaft. Looks like I'll be ordering that TIG welder sooner rather than later! Been wanting one for a while.

Tig aw ****! Moving onto the big leagues. Since your doing that just get the 220v oven too

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

Tig aw ****! Moving onto the big leagues. Since your doing that just get the 220v oven too

Prices on really decent AC/DC TIG machines are so good, it's hard not to get one if you're doing any king of fabrication. Been a while since I ran one, but I do have experience. Hoping to hit the ground running. I'll be fabbing turbo kits before you know it! I'd love to have a powder coating oven. Real estate is at a premium in the garage, so it would have to be one of those small apartment size units. I hardly ever see them for sale used, and never at a good price. In due time.

I got the frame all clearanced for the headers. Didn't take much.





I cut the collectors (?) off since they weren't going to work for my application. Once the TIG welder gets here I can cobble something together. I have the exhaust pretty well laid out in my head. I probably would have been better off spending the extra $100 and buying the ones that are a direct fit, but what's the fun it that? Besides, now I can justify spending $1K on a welder and cylinder to save that $100. LOL

At the risk of appearing way to frugal, I decided to remove, relocate and reuse the original O2 bungs vs just plugging them and buying new ones. But hear me out on my reasoning. I have a TIG welder on order. I'm going to need some practice. Instead of wasting gas and rod on coupons I'm just going to toss, why not practice on something that actually serves a purpose (although less critical)? I'll get my feet wet by patching over the hole. By the time that's done, I should have things dialed in well enough to weld the bungs in their new location. Makes sense in my head I suppose.

To drill the bungs out from their original location I had to instal a bung plug. This served as a guide for the pilot of a hole saw. Worked pretty well.



Left minimal cleanup on the pipe and bungs.

He must be a sucker for sales,
but its $30 off from $200!
But you dont need it!
But I would save $30!

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

spend 1k to save 100, that's awesome

I'm terrible like that. To be fair, most of my big ticket purchases either save of make money in the long run. Transmission tools, MIG welder, etc...

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

He must be a sucker for sales,
but its $30 off from $200!
But you dont need it!
But I would save $30!

Well, this unit was down to $690 from $800. I was planning on buying a $1200 Everlast machine, so it really was a bargain overall. LOL. Plus, if I get good enough, I could make a couple extra dollars on the side doing light fab work.

Got a couple small victories. The original ground cable will work after all. I just moved it to a different spot on the block. There's a tapped hole right behind the power steering pump used for a support bracket in the HD models and not used on the 4.8/5.3 setups. Power steering pump is in and plumbed. I used the high pressure side from the Yukon and the return line is a mystery piece from my leftover pile. Had to clear the frame for the return hose. Nothing major. Shift linkage is connected. I was able to reuse everything from the original 700r4 configuration. Right down to the bracket on the manual shaft. Getting closer and closer to doing the wiring, no matter how much I want to put it off.

WooHoo!!



I'm going to do a LOT of practicing before posting ANY weld pictures. LOL

What I've learned so far;

1. Weld material must be CLEAN! TIG doesn't like junk in the material.
2. Stick out/ gas coverage is critical.
3. TIG welding in FUN!

I want to hit the metal supply store next weekend to build a welder cart. More practice!

PCM is mounted. I used the original Yukon PCM bracket. Pretty close to the factory GMT 800 location, so wiring should fall into place nicely. I welded a plate to the bottom of the K10 battery tray, then added a little outrigger from the PCM mount to the battery tray support. It's super solid and it doesn't interfere with the fan shroud.

wont be long now........your in the home stretch now.

Congrats on getting a TIG, man. You're doing it nicely as always. Theres a previously sloppily LS'ed K10 at the shop right now in the assembly phase.

Lets see the first tig practice! do it on aluminum for ****s and giggles! I enjoyed rolling the ball on the tungsten, after that it was all down hill.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

wont be long now........your in the home stretch now.

I figure I'm about 65%-70% done. Still have the majority of the wiring, exhaust and fuel system to do yet. Making progress every day though.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Congrats on getting a TIG, man. You're doing it nicely as always. Theres a previously sloppily LS'ed K10 at the shop right now in the assembly phase.

Thanks! Yeah, this truck is far from perfect but I'm doing what I can.

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

Lets see the first tig practice! do it on aluminum for ****s and giggles! I enjoyed rolling the ball on the tungsten, after that it was all down hill.

No way I'm posting anything until it stops looking like chicken poop. I'd need to find some scrap aluminum first also. I will. I promise. Just not right away. I did take some pictures of my first beads so I can show where I came from.

I figure you got the TIG to expand your home capability to include stainless and aluminum mainly. But if it were me, my first efforts to get to know the new machine would be on steel. Once satisfied with those results, you could sell the MIG to gain floor space and offset your expense like usual.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

I figure you got the TIG to expand your home capability to include stainless and aluminum mainly.

Yup. Exactly. Stainless is cool, but I'm really excited to get into aluminum.

...if it were me, my first efforts to get to know the new machine would be on steel.

Agreed. I'm trying to think of something I can make to practice and that would still be useful. I'm sure an idea will present itself.

Once satisfied with those results, you could sell the MIG to gain floor space and offset your expense like usual.

This is EXACTLY what I was thinking. Short of some heavy fabrication, like a utility trailer, I can't think why I would use the MIG over the TIG. Even if I do need to do some heavy welding, the Alpha has stick welding capability.

Is there a reason for a home gamer to keep a MIG welder if they have a TIG/stick machine?

Originally Posted by BrandonHall10

Is there a reason for a home gamer to keep a MIG welder if they have a TIG/stick machine?

There are probably situations where one handed MIG can't be beat for ease in confined areas, like maybe if you bent up full dual exhaust systems at home. But I haven't used TIG or stick. Well, maybe once each. All I can say for sure is that if all you do is steel theres no need for TIG. I can't say that I have seen a TIG weld be beautiful on thin steel but that may be because of the operator. At work, our guy with tig has done thin stuff that is considered very sensitive to the heat but to me it looked like it would break off. Personally I have conquered the thin steel nail-biter pieces with mig and get minimal warpage but that is pure practice, tons of it. I just knew there was no way in hell you was gonna have two welding carts in there with the way you operate. Not for long, anyway. Make some tackle boxes or something as exercise, you could give them away.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

I just knew there was no way in hell you was gonna have two welding carts in there with the way you operate. Not for long, anyway.

You know me too well.

Originally Posted by tomsteve

TIG is being used for body panels/ metal replacement in restorations quite a bit. its easier to control the heat leading to less chance of warpage, welds are softer so easier to work, less cleanup after, and easier to work metal after welding. mig welds are rather brittle/hard and dont work easy.

Even after just a week of playing and practicing, I'm seeing a huge difference in the amount of control (specifically heat) you have with the TIG. I love it!

So I got the headers all welded up and installed for the last time. I'm pretty okay with where they dump. I should be able to make that work.

I haven't given up. Just slogging my way through the least exciting part of a swap.