Thread: My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!!

These should help it breathe a little better too.

I did the hardware store striker bushing mod today:



Just over a nickel per side, and no more slamming the door to get it to shut.

Well, hopefully this kills the squealing. If I does, I'll tear into the other side next weekend. I probably should have done both sides at the same time, but I'm just plain tired.

Time for a little update I suppose. The truck has been pretty much just sitting for the last year. Didn't feel like playing the emissions test game, plus the V8 S10 is done and my reliable daily driver. Having said that, it's LS swap time! Picked up this 2001 Yukon XL for an even $1000.



Probably wait till the weather cools down a bit, but I should be doing regular updates soon!

I have a problem.

so the square body gets the swap, and you part out the rest of the hoe?


if you had grass there would be no parking all over the place like that lol

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

so the square body gets the swap, and you part out the rest of the hoe?

Yup. Going to pull the motor and trans, the the Hoe gotta go. I'd like to sell the shell in one shot vs. taking the time to part it out. Should be worth a couple hundred. Having a clean title gives me more options. Plus the 60e works, so that should be worth another couple hundred. I'm thinking I'll have this 5.3 for $300-$400 by the time all is said and done.

if you had grass there would be no parking all over the place like that lol

Sometimes I wonder if having a gate to the backyard is a blessing or a curse. Knowing I can store these vehicles give me free reign to snatch them up.

So I broke down the RPO codes on the donor truck. I like to nerd out on minutia. The things that stood out to me were;

7200 Lb GVW
Positrac LSD
130 amp alternator
HD trans cooler
High capacity air cleaner
Reese type trailer hitch

The suspension/towing stuff should help with the resale value of the roller. Even though the seats are trashed, I'm tempted to grab them for the K10. They feel very nice. I will be measuring for fitment for sure. I'f I can find a cheap set of steelies for the Yukon, I'll snag the alloy wheels too. They should fit the K10? I'll research that...

Here's the full list:

AG1 : ADJUSTER, FRT ST, POWER, 6 WAY DRIVER, SPLIT BENCH
AG2 : ADJUSTER, PASS ST POWER, 6 WAY, SPLIT BENCH
AJ1 : WINDOW TINTED, DEEP, ALL EXCEPT W/S AND DRS
AL4 : SEAT RR, BKT
AS3 : SEAT, RR, SUBURBAN
AU0 : LOCK CONTROL, REMOTE ENTRY – KEYLESS ENTRY (DOMESTIC)
AXP : VIN IDENT POSITION, MULTI- PURPOSE VEHICLE
A31 : WINDOW, POWER OPERATED, ALL DOORS
A95 : SEAT, FRT BUCKET, HIGH BACK, PASS & DRIVER RECL
BVE : STEPS RUNNINGBOARD, SIDE
B30 : COVERING, FLOOR CARPET
B39 : COVERING, FLOOR CARPET, LOAD FLOOR
B58 : COVERING, FLOOR MATS, FRT & RR, CARPETED INSERT
B85 : ORNAMENTATION, EXTR MLDG BELT REVEAL
C36 : HEATER, AUXILIARY
C49 : DEFOGGER, RR WINDOW, ELECTRIC
C5Z : GVW RATING, 7200 LBS
C60 : HVAC SYSTEM, AIR CONDITIONER FRT MAN CONTROLS
C69 : HVAC SYSTEM, RR, AIR CONDITIONER
DF5 : MIRROR I/S, R/V, LT SENSITIVE, COMPASS, O/S TEMP
DH2 : MIRROR, I/S FRONT VAN, LH AND RH, ILLUMINATION WITH DUAL SUNSHADE
DK2 : MIRROR O/S, LH & RH, REM CONT, ELEC, DEFOG, PAINTED
DK7 : CONSOLE ROOF, INTERIOR, CUSTOM
D07 : CONSOLE, FRT COMPARTMENT FLOOR, CUSTOM
EVA : TEST DVT, EVAP EMISSION REQUIREMENT
FE9 : CERTIFICATION, EMISSION, FEDERAL
FF6 : ARM, LH, TORSION BAR SPRING ADJ (E)
FF7 : ARM, RH, TORSION BAR SPRING ADJ (F)
GT4 : AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO (DUP WITH 5 X 1)
G65 : LEVEL CONTROL MAN, SELF-ADJUSTING
G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP
JAN : PLANT CODE - JANESVILLE, WI, BOC
JC5 : BRAKE, VAC POWER, 4-WHEEL DISC, 7200 LBS
KG8 : GENERATOR, 130 AMP
KNP : COOLING SYSTEM TRANS, HD
K34 : CRUISE CONTROL, AUT0MATIC, ELECTRONIC
K47 : AIR CLEANER HIGH CAPACITY
LM7 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.3L, MFI, IRON, GM
M30 : TRANSMISSION, AUTO 4 SPD, HMD, 4L60E, ELECTRONIC
NF2 : EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL, TIER 1
NP5 : STEERING WHEEL, LEATHER WRAPPED
NP8 : TRANSFER CASE – (ACTIVE) – PUSH BUTTON CONTROL, 2 SPD
NZZ : SKID PLATE OFF-ROAD
PF4 : WHEEL, 16 X 7, CAST - ALUMINUM
QMK : TIRE ALL P265/70R16 WOL R/PE ST TL
SLM : STOCK ORDER, PROCESSING CODE
TFE : SALES INCENTIVE COMMITMENT PLUS
T96 : FOG LAMPS - FRONT
UP0 : RADIO AM/FM STEREO, SEEK/SCAN, AUTO REV MUSIC SEARCH CASS, CD, AUTO TONE, CLOCK, ETR.
UQ3 : SPEAKER SYSTEM, PERFORMANCE ENHANCED AUDIO
UY7 : WIRING HARNESS, TRUCK TRAILER HD
VB3 : BUMPER, RR, STEP, CHROME, IMPACT STRIP
VR4 : TRAILER HITCH, WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM
VXS : VEHICLE COMPLETE
V22 : GRILL RADIATOR, CHROME
V54 : LUGGAGE CARRIER, ROOF, PAINTED
V73 : VEHICLE STATEMENT, USA/CANADA
XMK : TIRE FRONT P265/70R16 WOL R/PE ST TL AL2 111S
YD3 : FRONT AXLE, BASE EQUIPMENT FOR SCHEDULING, GVW PLATE
YD6 : REAR SPRING, BASE EQUIPMENT
YE9 : CONVENIENCE PACKAGE, COMFORT & DECOR LEVEL #3
YMK : TIRE REAR P265/70R16 WOL R/PE ST TL AL2 111S
ZMK : TIRE SPARE P265/70R16 WOL R/PE ST TL AL2 111S
ZW7 : CHASSIS PACKAGE,PREMIUM SMOOTH RIDE
ZW9 : BASE BODY AND CHASSIS
ZY1 : COLOR COMBINATION, SOLID
Z82 : TRAILER PROVISIONS, SPECIAL EQUIPMENT, H.0.
Z88 : CONVERSION, NAME PLT GMC
1SC : OPTION PACKAGE 03
1SZ : UNT OPTION PACKAGE
41U : PRIMARY COLOR, EXTERIOR, BLACK
6XL : COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP
7XL : COMPONENT FRT RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP
92I : INTERIOR TRIM SHALE/PEWTER
922 : LEATHER, MED DK PEWTER II/VERY DK PEWTER

Brandon, do your research on the G80. A lot of people call it "Grenade 80". Meanwhile if you look on the truck forums you can get a used Eaton locker for low money when the guy swaps gear ratio. Cam suggested that to me when my G80 blew a hole in the diff cover. Upon swapping and opening up the old diff, it was nothing but metal soup.

Now that I've suggested you do the research before automatically swapping that in... mine survived me for 140K miles and around 15 years. I would burp the throttle to engage it and make an easier 180 turn. I did burp the throttle on/off in 4wd low while on pavement chained to a super heavy fork lift that was bottomed in the grass. I got the forklift out at the expense of bending the driveshafts. Same truck had the 4L60E and never let me down.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Brandon, do your research on the G80. A lot of people call it "Grenade 80". Meanwhile if you look on the truck forums you can get a used Eaton locker for low money when the guy swaps gear ratio. Cam suggested that to me when my G80 blew a hole in the diff cover. Upon swapping and opening up the old diff, it was nothing but metal soup.

Now that I've suggested you do the research before automatically swapping that in... mine survived me for 140K miles and around 15 years. I would burp the throttle to engage it and make an easier 180 turn. I did burp the throttle on/off in 4wd low while on pavement chained to a super heavy fork lift that was bottomed in the grass. I got the forklift out at the expense of bending the driveshafts. Same truck had the 4L60E and never let me down.

The G80 is in the donor SUV. It'll be someone else's problem shortly. The K10 has a plain Jane 10 bolt open diff. It's probably going to need a rebuild in the near future. 350k+ miles on it. It's a little loose. You get that classic "chunk" when dropping it into gear. When that happens, I might upgrade to an LSD or at least a lunchbox locker.

I took care of one nagging issue today... About a year ago, I pulled the IPC to replace a couple burned out bulbs. In my rush to put it back together, I messed something up (It was my DD at the time). Everything would work fine during the day, but when I pulled the headlight switch at night, the gas gauge would fall to "E", the door buzzer would faintly alarm and the high beam indicator would half light up. After a little googling, I decided it was most likely a bad ground. (Yes, I googled before I asked. Crazy, I know!) So I pulled the IPC back out, sanded the contacts on the bulb holders and the PCB with some 2000 grit and checked everything with a DVOM before reassembly. Put it all back together and all is well now. It was weird having actual screws holding things together and not just plastic clips. 1984 seems like a different world!



As I'm typing this, I'm thinking there's a high probability I forgot to reconnect the speedometer cable. That's tomorrow's problem. I may have been delirious from the heat. It was 105° in the shade.

I had a 75, it seems like they didn't change a thing forever in those trucks.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

I had a 75, it seems like they didn't change a thing forever in those trucks.

Yeah. Like 14 years. No major changes from '73 to '87. Makes the parts easy to find though.

I told myself I couldn't tear the Yukon apart until the S-Blazer was out of the backyard. I plan to start the trans swap on that this weekend. In the meantime I spent some time pre-cleaning the engine compartment. Removed that mysterious silver canister on the left inner fender. Did some Googling... Turns out it's a toilet paper oil filter. Some real old school stuff!



Noticed that grandpa chose to mount it directly on top of the build sheet. Apparently he gave zero F's about documentation and original equipment replacement parts. LOL!

4 wheels and a steering wheel.. that's what he figured it said!

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

4 wheels and a steering wheel.. that's what he figured it said!

I think that's really all he cared about. This truck has ZERO options. No AC, fixed steering column. Doesn't even have intermittent wipers!

My grandpa bought this truck brand new from a dealership in Grand Rapids, MI.

Berger Chevrolet, as a matter of fact.

The '70s: How Chevrolet Supported Racers Without Supporting Racers

My 75 had the floor vents that were pull open/push closed, wing windows and that's about the feature listing.

my 77 2500 had ac and the fly windows in the doors, and a slider in the back window. you could really get some air flow going on there if the ac crapped out lol that was a fun truck, i put headers on it and a one foot pipe with turbo mufflers on each side, and thats it. talk about loud lol

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

My 75 had the floor vents that were pull open/push closed, wing windows and that's about the feature listing.

Yup. Pretty much the same here.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

my 77 2500 had ac and the fly windows in the doors, and a slider in the back window. you could really get some air flow going on there if the ac crapped out lol that was a fun truck, i put headers on it and a one foot pipe with turbo mufflers on each side, and thats it. talk about loud lol

Mine has the back slider and the wing windows, no AC though. Unfortunately, the rubber on those windows is so dry rotted I'm hesitant to open them and if I open the slider, I eat a bunch of dirt. Just using the old crank windows for now.

I haven't had any substantial time to work on the engine removal. Just a couple minutes here or there. Not really sure where I want to start. I figured the first and most obvious step would be to give the engine a quick bath. Nothing crazy, I'll pressure wash it when it's out. I just don't want to look like a coal miner while I'm working on it.






To





I also bought the credits to license the PCM. Just killed the VATS for now. When the time comes, I want to be ready to run this thing on the stand. Took a picture of the odo for reference. A mere 246K. That's just over half of it's expected life.

Ohhh dust.. wow, better clean that up. Around here we have different weather patterns that leave a lot more gunk on engines. You may have to deal with the heat, be thankful you have no moisture for rust etc.