Thread: Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

Lol, no burnouts until I have a spare transmission.

oh you need to smoke em up. other wise it will never stick well. i end up dragging the back wheels 5 feet lol

https://youtu.be/WVJaWxRR9lE?t=18

Dang you shift into 3rd way before I do. What was your time there?

13.8 would have been a .7 if i didnt let off due be running lean. i run the hpt scanner when i make runs, so one eye on the lap top looking for the kr to flash and the other eye on the wb lol saw kr, looked at the wb, let off. that was a fresh tune where i zero'd out the pe time vs rpm. first passes, need the maf adjusted from that.

now it have best go faster then you lol its got more tm folders tuned now since the gen 5.

I think I am using your torque management. I was thinking to adjust it so it drops even less timing on shifts. But again, it's a balance between wanting to save my transmission, and trying to get faster. But then I have always wanted to tear down a transmission. I've never done a tranny swap before and the eager-to-learn part of me says just grenade it so I have a new opportunity to learn.

my trans is pretty new still, just passed 3 k on it, full rebuild. its got like 20 passes on it already lol

If the engine mount isn't totally destroyed, like many pics I've seen, how do you know if it's hydraulic or not? My dog bones never lined up that great so I figured it is one of the mounts. I expected the stock one to be blown out.



Guess I could drill a hole in it and see? The GM part number on it doesn't pull anything up.

Anyways, did that and the dog bone bushing. I'd say it feels snappier on a punch out.


Looks like my HB is next.



It doesn't vibrate or wobble yet, but the cracks look nasty. Pretty sure it's a dorman balancer, installed when I did the swap. So that's kinda crappy. Is there a better balancer I should install? Can't say I'm looking forward to the install cause torquing that sucker down sucked.

I installed the zzp solid engine mount, btw. Tranny mount looks ok, but I may do that soon.

Yeah the zzp poly engine mount was out of stock. And I don't do business with Intense anymore. The story is somewhere here in this build log. I will have to look into the overdrive hb. Thanks

Car started suddenly running like crap. Felt it was definitely missing on one cylinder. Scanner confirmed #6 misfiring. It was worse at idle, but felt down on power when I got on it. Popped the hood this morning and found the issue. Very simple fix. Anyone wanna guess what the issue was? Hint: it takes a socket and short extension to fix.

You got it. Was just loose. I like when things like this pop up though. It's nice to file another symptom and fix in my memory. I didn't even think a loose plug would make it run like this, but makes sense now.

Of course the worse always comes to mind. I was thinking a fried exhaust valve or low compression. Was thinking I need a compression test.

Could be bad news, but I'll ask the pros. Tightened up the spark plug and still getting misfires on cylinder 6. Plug was wet so I think fuel is fine. Wideband reading rich too. Swapped wires and coil pack and new plug. Misfire stays on #6. I have a bad feeling it's a dead cylinder. Was gonna compression test but for whatever reason I can't get the tester threaded in the hole. I ran out of time and patience so I'll try again tomorrow.

Anyways, any obvious thing I'm missing? Seeing how the plug was loose it makes me think the worst, but I dunno if detonation can even cause a loose plug? Haven't beat on the car since the track, it just started missing one day when I was driving my daughter to the Dr. I know the compression test will reveal the truth, but hoping it has good compression what else could cause misfire on one cylinder? The cylinder isn't completely dead, the exhaust gets hot.

Well I have compression. Swapped plugs, wire, coil and misfire stays on 6.

I pull injector wire and engine runs the same. Yet that exhaust pipe on the header gets hot. Like huh? So I pulled injectors and tested that injector and it sprays just fine. Test light shows power to that injector harness. So that brings me back to spark but I have spark, verified by cranking with sparkplug out and in wire.

Thinking of pulling valve cover but not sure it's necessary since I have compression?

Any suggestions on what to troubleshoot next? Right now I'm thinking ....well, nothing lol. I've taxed my limited skill set. I'll turn the wrench, you guys give me some ideas. We got this!

I did and still misfire on 6. There is a light ticking at idle, sounds like an exhaust leak but in the front. Doesn't get louder with rpms. And it's running rich, injector duty cycle is usually like 1.8 at idle, now it's at 1.2 when in closed loop.

So it has fuel and spark. Exhaust gets hot yet it still runs rich. Broken rocker? Think I'm gonna try to pull rear valve cover. Hope it's doable without pulling the coolant elbows.

Alrighty then, suspicious confirmed. I was pretty sure it had to be mechanical.




Valve stem seal popped off. Now my question, is this a sign of other issues like a bent valve, or can this "just happen"?

if you had just put them on and were new. yes sometimes they tend to come off. mine have not tho in 10,000 miles since i last put this set up together. used felpro seals again.

some guys they tend to keep popping off im not sure if its installer error or something larger.

i make sure the base there is dry and clean, then use a 10 mm socket over the valve stem to push it down as far as it will go.

Hmm, think these are viton. Pretty sure I still have a new set somewhere. I know I installed them right. I was super careful, heads we're off and squeaky clean. They have maybe 15k on them. I did have the seats milled down in case I went big cam and rockers. Shouldnt matter.

So, just bring piston up top and pop off the spring? Never done this in the car before.