Thread: Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

Nice. Yeah you got a killer deal on that meth kit. My local yard sells blowers for 100. I'll have to keep checking.

Did you do the gen V by itself? Just curious what your experience was. Intake temps much lower? Was it a noticable increase in power? You had to step up pulley size?

gen 5 is more efficient, so the 3.0 is like running the 2.8 on the gen 3, still making 13 ish psi. the 2.8 on the gen 5 made 15 at 5,000 rpm. but maxed the injectors big time.

ive got a n* as well. def woke it up. spins the tires like im on a wet road but its bone dry lol

at no point was it floored here or you'd hear more whine.

took this vid hrs after getting my engine back in last week lol

Gotta love that 3800 low end torque! That's what makes these cars so fun to drive. Sounds good man. Got my e85 today. Tuning commences.

My injector minimum pulse width mist be 1.7ms. So doubt I'll be able to tune out the rich decel. Guess I can live with that. Played with IFR to try to lean it out from 0-30kpa, since normal driving ever sees that range. Increased my IFR table by bumping up the numbers in cells 0-30, and it only changed the upper end, as in I went lean at wot and got knock retard. Well crap. So either I've got a configuration issue with Scanner, or I'm stupid and don't understand manifold pressure. Perhaps both.

Why does the manifold pressure only go to 140 in the editor I wonder. Maybe because I'm using an n/a pcm? Man, the.more I try to learn about tuning, the dumber I feel, lol. May have to buy one of them online courses. Or just say F it, it's a cheap car with a limited pcm and have fun trying not to melt pistons.

you using the na bin file?

I believe so. Reptile did my very first tune. He took my stock file and basically tweaked it for my first start.

I'm gonna go back to the tune I had a few days ago that worked well. Think I'll stop trying to mess with the Injetors and try to make the MAF tune as good as I can. I'll just pull maybe 5 degrees of timing, tune MAF, then see how much timing I can bring back in. I had 19° wot with my dhp tune but probably only because I was drowning it in fuel.

Laptop took a dump. No, damnit, I did not backup my tunes or scanner settings!

sucks, but you can just read the pcm again.

Yeah but I was on a tweaked untested tune when I lost my others. No biggie. Thankfully the one I sent you is saved. The scanner setup was the biggest loss. But I got it setup now. Blessing in disguise because I understand it more now.

Found a good tuning guide for v6's on the hpt forum. Gonna give that a shot now.

Things I think I've learned. IFR table should probably be the same number in all cells. A scan today showed that my trims consistently followed my flow rate curve.
VE table is only used when maf fails. So tuning it is pretty much irrelevant. Also, if trims are high or low when entering pe, it will effect the entire time you are in pe.

So the method I found is to set PE at 0, disable closed loop by setting ECT enable high, and tune MAF AFR error. Cruising areas first, then wot 2nd gear for higher frequencies.

Got the tune pretty dialed in...finally. After O/L PE tuning I am now back to C/L and seeing 0 to -4 trims. Mostly in the idle/cruise cells. Not easy to tune them. Wish I had some long steep hills around here.

So, the fun part has began. I was at 18 degrees timing with just a touch of KR. So I swapped to my 3" pulley. Tried this years ago and it was KR city! Had to drop 2 degrees of WOT timing and it's better, but still see KR on long pulls. But, I'm still at 11.20 wot AFR. I think I can go lower with E85, maybe 10.9-11.0. Gonna see if that doesn't take care of the KR.

Maybe placebo, but car feels better with the 3", especially at part throttle. Gonna keep it on and see how clean I can make the tune. I'm looking at DIY meth kits though. Think that's the next step.

Never seen my commanded AFR and Wideband look this good.



It's just locked in. Beautiful! Check out that Commanded AFR vs Wideband. I swapped plugs today. Been running the AP104s for 4 years, maybe 14k miles. They were pretty nasty from running so rich. Swapped to copper 103's and amazingly my KR pretty much disappeared. Get blips every now and again with high load, low rpm but WOT was so nice I was able to add 2 degrees timing back to my table and no KR. I have 1-1.5 KR randomly. Like the photo I posted. But i can do 5 more WOT runs and see zero knock.

What likely helped the most with the plugs was the old set had a range of gaps. .054 to .060. Think those were the first plugs i ever gapped, and apparently I did a horrible job. New plugs are .049.

Topic is new plug after a couple wot runs. Heat range look ok? Bottom is old plugs, obviously.

AEM meth kit ordered today I blame Scotty. Should have it Sunday.

Any tips, or is it a straight forward install? Hoping to source some 100% meth I can mix myself but will start with wiper fluid.

I'm gonna tune for it. Need to figure out the best way to do so.

you can use washer fluid, but if you get 50/50 real meth you'll need a re tune. washer fluid is only like 30% meth.

i scan my maf htz and the wb, freeze frame the scanner and click through the scan watching the maf cells and wb. once the wb is rich or lean you know what cell to start removing or adding fuel from. you could just start out with pulling a few % of fuel out of the maf from 7,000 htz to the top, thats your wot range of the maf. get the afr to the mid 12's. i start spraying at 6 psi, then max is set to 10. i make 13 psi. you want max to set a few psi before actual max boost.

lower your timing to like 13 wot during this. if you go lean it can knock like a crack head looking for a fix. pmvr you gt the afr set to mis 11's spraying meth, put your old timing file back in and start adding to it 2 degrees at a time to be safe. this is also when you drop that pulley if you have a smaller one. i went from a 3.2 to a 2.8 pulley, then i was 14 wot, to 21 wot. ive still not tried to go any higher, but i feel it might take a few more degrees. with the corn you might make it to mid 20's or more.

as far as install its cake. they even have each wire is stamped what its for and color coded. directions are easy to follow too. they have tuning directions included in the directions too. they say to lean it out to 12.6, then start spraying, the meth makes up the afr and makes it richer.

i got my controller in the glove box, tank in the trunk with the pump next to it. all wires and tubing run the pass side carpet to the shiftier cable hole where the tube exits to the intake as well as the vac line for the controller.

Very nice, thanks! Seems common sense then. Is there a reason to run the tank in the trunk? I was thinking engine bay for ease of hookup.

I'm not sure that cranking timing that high will show much gain. There's a point where torque will start dropping. Maybe it's 25°, or maybe it's 18? Hard to say without a Dyno. Stock for the imp is 22°. I might just have to get a Dyno session this summer. It's feeling good right now at 17 though. Big factor for the kit is safety. Some runs I can see no KR, but sometimes I can see 2-3°. I now realize how heat soak can effect the tune. Had no idea until tuning open loop.

I'm definitely getting a smaller pulley though. I have a couple I'll trade for a 2.8 if anyone is interested

if you got room to put the tank and pump up front do it. i lacked the space, so it went in the trunk.

Cool, got plenty of room. Where did you put the nozzle? I was gonna just put it in my diy CAI, like 8" from the throttle body. I just read where bio tapped into the supercharger. Is it better to have it after the TB?

you dont want to spray the maf. so any where post maf is fine, tb spacer was on my gen 3, the gen 5 i drilled and tapped the case.


follow the black tube that loops over the intake then leads to the blower near the bbv.