Thread: Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

Ok, here is a visual example of what I've been dealing with. Hopefully u can understand my frustration, lol.


So I'm tuning open loop MAF using wideband error %. I was tuning the injectors I just installed, and i had everything going in the right direction. This photo is after a run, i



I made a tiny adjustment around 8000hz to richen up that spot. Save, flash, drive for 5 minutes and then I get this:






And it wanted to stay lean. I did find that a couple injector O-rings are leaking, so I'm fixing that now. But I had the same issue when I was using the 60# injectors. They could have been leaking too though, cause I had noticed a fuel smell especially after a quick deceleration to a stop. I'll report what I find after I get the o-rings replaced. Also pulled the FPR and it was a bit dirty, had some rust on the inside of the rail where the fpr sits in.

Holy crap, I didn't know tuning should be this easy! I finally am 100% that I got the issue sorted. It's crazy because for awhile I was wondering what kind of magic y'all are invoking if you were able to tune around the issues i was seeing. Because this is my first car i've tuned I had no baseline for comparison. Had many days where I just felt defeated, lol. Been testing it for 3 days and everything is staying where it should.

Right now I'm using stock l67 injectors. Was only able to tune up to around 9500hz, around 60% throttle, before flow rate maxed out. Tomorrow I'm installing the 60's again. Hopefully the tune won't be wrecked if I just scale the IFR. Will be interesting what it does to a dialed in tune with stock injector settings. Maybe I stand a chance of tuning the injector offsets now. I'll have to make some tables that correspond to the offset table and error %, but I have hope. After that I have the 2.8 pulley ready.

Injectors are back in and we're moving forward. Thought I'd try to tackle the SD exhaust leak, my nemesis. Put a huge glob on the front crossover connection and tightened down the clamp. I only gave it a couple hours to cure, because that's me, impatient. If anyone is familiar with HP tuners you know the comparison feature. Here is the difference between the decent tune I had on it, and after fixing the leak.




Mid range is certainly affected. I'm surprised idle isn't more affected, but this was a fast tune and I didn't really do much idle scanning. So air is being sucked in the exhaust leak and giving my wideband a false reading. This should definitely help my gas mileage though because cruise was pretty ugly and I was adding about 2-7 percent too much fuel in those areas.

Still need a more permanent fix because this stuff will probably eventually burn out.

Been in closed loop for a week now. Trims are all looking good. Bought a smaller belt for the 2.8. Messed with it for a few minutes, couldn't get it on, so put the old belt back on. I think it's.ok, but I do see the boost fluctuate on a wot pull. I'll have to pull out my belt stretcher and make it work.

Installed a water/meth failsafe today. Works as it should, pulls timing if the AEM controller errors out or runs below the water level sensor. Wish I could command a richer mix as well. If there were more IAT tables in HPT I probably could. I remember dhp having more IAT tables. But this is at least a small safety net.

Ordered some Por15. Next step is to try to stop the rust. The body looks good, but the underside is losing the fight. Went to jack up the car a few days ago and well basically my jack point are toast. Broke off a 4x3 chunk of rusty metal, lol. It's mostly everything under the side skirts that is rusting out. Strut towers are good. Hopefully the por15 gets me through another year or 3.

I know I've been through a lot of "fixes" trying to get a stable engine to tune. Plugs, O2 harness, evap, vac leaks, etc etc. But I'm 99% sure I know what my issue was.

I tested my fuel pressure several weeks ago with a harbor freight fp gauge. It read around 63 at idle. My first thought was that the gauge was off because, well, harbor freight. Around when I was doing injectors I pulled the fpr and found that there was rust inside the rail where the fpr sits. Likely from the e85 and because car sat for letting me periods of time. I cleaned it out and.put new orings on fpr. Well, that's about the time when my tunes stabilized. But I made a few changes and wasn't sure what caused it.

Yesterday I picked up a clean fpr at pick n pull. Before I installed it I tested pressure again and.it was around 47-48 idle. Installed the new regulator and same pressure! That's when it hit me. The whole time the.majority of my issues was with that rust in the rail. Tune is still solid. It's actually very good, couldn't be happier.

Just wanted to note that for any e85 guys. Anyways, next and.probably last task (for now) is a tranny cooler. My temps have been cracking 220°. Fluid is ok, just slightly brown but smells fine. But I want her to last as long as possible. I'll probably just drain the pan and top off with new fluid. I put a drain plug in it last time I changed the filter.

Oil cooler installed. I was seeing 220° + when tuning. After I installed I took it for a romp and highest I saw was around 185. My transmission fluid didn't look or smell that bad, but after putting in 6 fresh quarts the shifts have firmed up as well.


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My wheels are kinda rough. I'm thinking of having them refinished, but wanted to see what 20 bucks in plastidip would look like. I've never used this stuff before. What do you think?


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I love plastidip... go on dipyourcar.com and get some dip coat. makes it smoother and last longer

all dip

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That's one dippy car! Nicely done. I may consider spraying the car in the future. The paint is pretty shot. Hood is full of crowsfeet, I think it's called. And rest has multiple scratches and dings. Biggest issue is rocker rust. Gonna tackle that next. I have a buddy who does pdr, who owes me some dent repair for fixing one of his cars. Passenger side has a dozen small dents in the doors.

A lot of the damage is from sitting in garage too close to kids bikes. So I keep it outside, mostly ,which isn't any better.

So after a blowout of a brake line yesterday, I replaced the lines today. RF I did a few months ago. Rear two I took back to the connections before the subframe. I may do the lines to the rear wheels, need a better look at them.

But my fuel feed line sprung a leak when I was taking it out of the plastic bracket, right before it bends up to the engine bay. Need some advice on best route to go. I could do a compression fitting patch in that section, or I could run SS braided line with AN fittings from the leak to the rails. Anyone know what I'd need to do that? I still have factory fuel rails.

Also thinking about doing braided line at the 4 wheels. Is there a kit that is a direct bolt up?

Here's some Jegs part numbers for anyone needing to replace fuel line with braided from hard lines to factory fuel rails.





First time I've been to a Jegs store. Had no idea that the original Jegs store was right here in Columbus. But man, that's a lot of yellow. 10ft of hose was perfect to go from rails to just after where the rails go horizontal under the car.

Still working on it. Taking my time cleaning rust off brackets and painting some stuff. Hard lines are done though. It actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I thought it was gonna be a ***** to run the rear two lines down the engine bay out to the rear wheels, but that nicopp is so easy to work with.

Got her back on the road. All went fairly well. Only issue I had was when I cut an oring when pushing on the fuel line quick connect. Forgot to put a little lube on the rail before I pushed it on. Thankfully Advanced sells replacements that fit the AN fitting. Brakes definitely feel better, probably because the fluid hasn't been changed in a long time. I replaced all the brake lines except the RR line that goes over the subframe. Thankfully that was in good shape.

Thanks. I'm going as soon as I can. Just tricky with wives night shift schedule and 3 kids. This Friday is gonna be a cool day though, so we'll see.

Found this at the yard. First gen V I've seen there. Had to pull it off and see what condition it was in. Looks to be in good shape, no play and rotors don't look bad. What sucks is that it's 220+30 core. Another yard I visit sells blowers for 100. If it was 100 I would have taken it home, but I'm not sure it's worth it. I'd have to get throttle body or adapter, gaskets etc so I'm in what, maybe 350-400. Are the gains worth it for you who have swapped?





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got my gen 5 off lkq for 117 shipped to my door. has like 115,000 miles on it