made a video of a full throttle run today, its pretty shaky.
http://vid1115.photobucket.com/album...ps1deup5wy.mp4
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made a video of a full throttle run today, its pretty shaky.
http://vid1115.photobucket.com/album...ps1deup5wy.mp4
another video, this one is shorter.
http://vid1115.photobucket.com/album...pss5btbrys.mp4
Here are some pictures I took yesterday.
<a href="http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/johntremell/media/20150528_190232_zpsamwdmzap.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k560/johntremell/20150528_190232_zpsamwdmzap.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150528_190232_zpsamwdmzap.jpg"/></a>
I sold the 67, it was actually a Caprice, but pretty much the same as an Impala from the same year.
the Special Edition has come a long way since I got it. Still needs paint, but definitely looks better than it did.
Thanks
same thing different trims biscanne, belair impala caprice.my son and i build him up a 68 belair for his high school car. used alot of 67 parts because many were inter changable for those 2 years. thing i loved about the caprices is the clam shell lights and some had hide away head lights
there are a lot of neat things about the "B" body. the 100 millionth car made by Chevrolet was a Caprice, and the second most vehicle sales in the United States was a "B" body, behind the volkswagen bug. I think if I was going to buy another classic, it would be a Caprice, but it would be done, or I would buy one and have someone build it. restorations are too much work.
they are a ton of work your right.. i like tooling but it gets timely and costly. im at the buy it done point with the classics. 65-68s are my favorite besides the 61 409 but im not rich lol
today I took off the lowering springs I had on the front end and the car definitely doesn't handle as tight, but this is the second time the front passenger side cradle bolt has come loose, so I think I made the right choice. I also changed my lower control arms to the moog problem solver with the problem solver bearings. definitely helps with torque steer.
I forgot to tell the mechanic the replacement strut mounts were in the truck, so I'm not sure if they got changed. do you guys think I should be worried about it, the old ones were less than a year old.
On Thursday I am getting an alignment to adjust for the suspension spring changes, went back to stock on the front and put 2000 Olds Intrigue springs on the back. I am also doing a coolant flush to check for any blockages, and doing a transmission service to check for any problems that may present themselves due to the high operating temps on the transmission. it went up to 230 the other day before I shut it down, and 220 the day before that. Thanks to Bob, I picked up a transmission cooler for 30 dollars on ebay.
I am planning on relocating the intercooler pump to the fender area instead of where it is currently located, right next to the pcm, and am going to build a pcm mount to have the pcm standing up in the engine bay behind the headlight. I may change my mind and relocate the pcm to the glovebox if the wire harness doesn't have to be extended more than six feet for it to reach. Additionally, I plan on rerouting the intercooler hoses so they are out of the engine bay to a greater extent. I have a coolant gauge to install in the heat exchanger to see what my temps are while operating.
I'm thinking the ported L32 heads need to come off for reworking by Chris Hinson and then to get some 150 lb springs installed. double roller timing chain and an sfi approved dampner may follow, as well as an electric water pump.
Wife wont let me do a turbo, so this is my silent protest.
UPDATE:
Switching to a turbo, so the phenolic intercooler came off and was sold to Scotty, and now have an intake manifold ported by Scott and an upper intake manifold to install. I tapped the extra injector bung holes with a 3/8" npt and installed plugs. Should be installing the N/A upper and lower intake tomorrow, hopefully all will go well. Also have a ZZP HV3 to install.
Also installed a double roller timing chain, 130 lb valve springs and an electric water pump.
The last time I fired it up it had a vacuum leak. I'm going to try and work on it on Saturday. I have some new injector o rings to put on, a different vacuum barb that comes straight out, some plastic epoxy to glue the different vacuum barb in, some autolite 104's that I'm going to gap to .050, and I'm going to borrow a 3/8's inch tube bender so I can use my stock L67 fuel rails. The L67 fuel rails fit, but because the L36 upper intake is a different shape, the rails hit on the top. I just need to change the angle that the rails go over the manifold at.
Took the upper intake manifold off yesterday so I could reglue the vacuum line and found my coolant plugs had failed, so I used some jb weld and put the plugs back in. I also installed a new set of 104's gapped to 50. I figured out the reason for my vacuum leak. The fuel injectors weren't sealed in the heads. Next time I head down there I'm going to cut the top of the fuel rail and lengthen it with some nippon lines and get a better angle of injector insertion. Am also going to finish gluing the vacuum line.
Last edited by SgtMarshal; 12-13-2015 at 10:37 AM.
glued a couple vacuum barbs on the upper intake manifold, and started working on the fuel rails. wife wrecked her fusion, so now I need to get my grand prix running so we can have 2 running vehicles.
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...pshywslcml.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...pssrbpddyn.jpg
Last edited by SgtMarshal; 12-20-2015 at 09:33 PM.
wasn't me, wife was driving. she did great, no crying or freaking out or anything. we really did get lucky. looking under the hood, it looks like the radiator is done for, as well as part of the air conditioning. everything behind the radiator looks fine. funny thing is that a guy I knew in the town we moved from is the service manager at the shop that did the towing.
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