Thread: Twin Engine Oldsmobile, 4-4-2 much, tribute to the original Hurst "Hairy" Olds

lol no

it was a fun mockup, but each fullsize IC goes on its own engine, with the ssic probably stacked on top of the rear engines IC to allow for better air dispersion above the core with a larger plenum volume.

we shouldn't need to stack cores with em modified for single pass and post core bbv paths

took forever to get these

Those uniball pins are bad ass..

Have you checked rotor clearance with the lowers yet?

not yet, just got em yesterday....still need to take em for black oxide... but they are metric G body parts, so if they clear their rotor it should clear ours, even with the larger 7/8ths rod end at the LBJ spot....the 3/4" rod end in that pic has a smaller head dia than the oem lower ball joint.

the tie rod pins are not snug fitting on the knuckle, but its common for the aluminum knuckles to get their taper oversized from the studs spinning inside em, so they should be plenty tight with the brand new steel knuckles....

i like the lowers....you have to drill the knuckle out to 5/8ths for the threads... but, with the spacers all under the rod end, its pivot is nearly 1/4" lower than OEM, the spacers above the rod end can add 3/4" to that for a total roll center correction of 1 inch if need be.

gonna probably need all of it with the chassis at the 3.5" ride height...but hey at least we'll have good neg camber gain under compression...which can only bring tidings of joy in the corners...lol

One more question - What's the misalignment angle of the FK rod ends compared to stock ball joints?

Originally Posted by 95naSTA

One more question - What's the misalignment angle of the FK rod ends compared to stock ball joints?

14*, it angles up far enough that the axle would be going under the inner rod ends of the LCA. from full compression to full droop on the TR i measured only 10* at the LCA.

the 14* is for the std 3/4-3/4 fk12, where our outboard is the fk12 oversized shank (7/8ths with 3/4" ball) but if i recal it was the same just a fatter body around the 3/4" uniball.

Originally Posted by Sven The Sexman

Question: Why not run the Fiero rear subframe setup? Wouldn't that have been a little easier since all the parts are readily available?

cause it sucks.

its a complete compromise towards cheap mass production. plus it would have locked us into only one suspension geometry...which was far from ideal.

id honestly have to say over the last 14 years that the majority of headaches we've dealt with are directly related to OEM parts that are far from ideal, cheap, but far from ideal.

went clean sheet with the whole new tube chassis. no more OEM headaches for us.

just full adjustable anti dive/rise geometry, control arm length/pitch, track width (hub to hub), roll center, bump steer, caster, camber.

but with parts/strength you'd find on a baja truck, available at summit and others... weakest part of the suspension is the OEM struts/knuckles and hubs, followed next by the weakest rod end at 38k lbs strength.....at each corner

several cars have been before us, all have had massive suspension deformation issues, resulting in plenty of wrecks and one death.

while we are paying tribute to the original "Hairy" we dont wish to follow in its footsteps....we wanna have fun for the next 30 years

when dealing with the unknown.... overkill is the best kill....
I would hate for us to build a car and then have to completely re-cut it up and make it stronger 10 years from now...do it once...do it right.

sweeeet


just finished the last custom pieces for the 442...the upper strut to uni-ball adapters...yes thats a hacked off agx upper shaft... finished the last of the spare chromoly threaded sleeves for the LCA's. have enough for all 4 LCA's plus two spare LCA's and two just in case one or two gets ****ed up somehow...it wont derail us. (the whole damn car is rolling redundancy lol)


i also made two more for the cressida...so i can modify the LCA's fo a mad tyte stance yo! no really it'd ditch the last oem rubber bushings up front and make me feel safer about brakes and handling on a 3000lb waGN with the front brakes and suspension for a 2000lb ae86...


i just gotta drop the new strut bushings off for black oxide like the inner LCA heim spacers on the left that i made a couple weekends ago.


probably end up shipping all this stuff to wally on a damn skid

well today about 200lbs worth of crap is getting shipped to wally.

was finally able to do a true mockup of the knuckle side of things


strut to C/C plate bushings are done


one of the LCA models


and i finally finished the IC reservoirs...wrapped up till we need to figure out and weld the mounts

You mention using a steel knuckle, is that something you are making? I think the 442 originally had a steel or cast knuckle, wasn't sure. And what are you guys planning on using for a wheel bearing?

Seems like in the overkill, you would never use a W-bodyish wimpy gonna fail axle/bearing setup.

the dorman knuckle is cast steel but uses the beefier casting design vs the trimmed down iron/steel oem 9c1 knuckles

the 94 oem stuff was a stamped sheetmetal knuckle integrated to the front strut with changeable cartridges. the ball joint bolted to the knuckle and the bj stud went through the control arm.

we found some NOS timkens via the non abs part numbers and tossed in arp's and bolted em to the knuckles with some custom stainless knuckle to bearing spacers that i made a tab for a brake cooling duct and a BJ shield
all the part numbers are in this pic

My thought was around the 92-99 Bonneville wheel bearing. Those were close to bulletproof. But they bolt in from the front, not back. Not sure if they'd even work for the application.

they are the same pattern but those are designed for the older iron knuckles with the bolt threads in the knuckle.
you could use em but youd have to use nuts and bolts.

id doubt its stronger, its the same bearing design across their whole range.

if you wanted to use corvette bolt pattern wheels all youd need to do is bolt on corvette rear wheel bearings...the spline and dimensions are identical.

picked up the seats for the new chassis... 17" pro drags...thankfully the seat can flex enough to fit my fat ass lol
reusing the gforce camlock harness' that way we can just get em rewebbed once we are ready to roll.

Nice seats....I love our Kirkey road race seats in our car, nice and light too. Are you going to permanently mount them to the floor or on factory manual sliders. we made a billet aluminum plate 1/4" thick to go under ours. Then we cut out a skeleton pattern of holes to make it as light as possible but have room to bolt the seat to the plate.