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So awesome, subed.
well almost had it in today... was mocking it up and cutting were needed, then went to put the tranny on and stuff it when i noticed the pilot bearing was ugly so hell ill go ahead and change it.... stupid F'er wont come out and i broke a piece off... well guess its chisel time or dremel... hate pilot bearings.... on the up side it looks good in the bay.
Sick as tits!!!
^This is not a good saying.
Tits awesome works better.
Looking good so far!
Looks awesome, only thing I'd change is I'd put a CS144 alternator on there. You already have the correct bracket and everything to it'd be a simple swap, and you'll have PLENTY of power, with the bonus that your engine won't eat alternators anymore.
Sorry, I just swapped mine and I don't see why more people don't do it, so I'm gonna tell everyone to do it! lol Great work on the car!
i tried a slide hammer type. and it just laughed at it. i didnt want to drive all the way into town (20 mile round trip) to autozone to rent one, to tired working Mids this week so running on minimum sleep...
I had to take dad's pilot bearing off when i did the original clutch in his truck at 250K miles. It came right off. You're not as lucky but i wish you well.
it wont clear the F body intake
to remove the pilot bearing and you have an alignment tool....pack the inside of the crank/bearing with grease flush to the face of the bearing (try to remove all air...aka put your grease gun and pump it full and pump as you remove the greasegun hose/end)
then get a drift punch/alignment tool put it in the middle and smack it with a hammer to press the bearing out with hydraulic forces
good luck
this routing will end up spinning your WP backwards resulting in overheating...the WP spins the opposite direction of the crank....aka you have to have the smooth side driving it.
that commodore dual idler bracket/stand looks a whole helluva lot like one of the pieces used on the SI L67 beltdrive...but i know it isnt cause the block doesnt have the same bolt pattern on the face as the SII L67....
but id guess for something like that you could turn a single "wide" pulley to use the US SC idler stand and allow both belts to ride on it...it'll work just fine unless you get a crank pulley with an OD (cant have belts spin at different speeds)
Couldn't you run a smaller pulley on the tensioner, and just wrap the belt farther around the crank and come up the other side of the WP? Hard to tell if you'd have the clearance in the pic.
ok after over thinking this way to much, here is what I've come up with.... I'll just make the alternator adjustable like every old engine in the world... I'm such a dumbass for not thinking of it sooner. here is what it will look like. any foreseeable problems?
and the only problem is the bolt here which i will replace and trim the plastic cover.
Yay my idea worked! Plus more WP belt contact.
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