Thread: My Baby - 2000 Silver Mist GTP :) lots of pics!

Ok, getting closer... Everything in one spot now. Gotta clean up the block and get things started. Still no time off, so it'll be slow go at first. The bench has all the goodies : )

This looks fun

Ok, finally some time off...



So it begins, scraping the ol' gaskets off and cleaning things up. Gasket matching the LIM too. Pics later...
: )

Ok, so cleaning it up and getting ready, here's what I found:



Rear cover had a load of RTV around it, so I figured, let me open it and take a look. Was planning to remove balance shaft anyways...



Glad I did, as it appeared the gobs of goop partially blocked that oil galley coming from the balancer bearing. Nice huh?


Oh boy... Taking out the cam and this is what I found...



tell me your thoughts... There was no damage to piston top, no problem in lifter galley... Hmmmmm! Defect (metal) or lifter gone bad?

Dont mind me, it's slow going as I'm only getting a few hours at a time to work on it. Last worries are that I have all the bolts needed for reassembly, lolz! Everything was in boxes as I got it (engine).

Thanks for looking!
: )

Ok, a bit of a setback... Heads are gonna need some work. Instead of one or two, just gonna get new guides in all, valve job along with it.
FUAC....

heres what tipped me off, "Huston", we have a problem...

I wouldn't rebuild it WITHOUT re-doing the heads.

Porting the heads, getting them rebuilt with a bowl/valve job will help quite a bit.

As for the rear cover, yikes. And the cam looks like a failed lifter to me. I'd put in new lifters with a new cam and move on.

If a lifter failed there should be more marks on the cam lobe.

It's kinda common to see just the top of a cam lobe worn away. I pulled a cam out of a 200k mile 5.3 block at work and all the lifters were still mint but one cam lobe had the top eatin away and metal started folding over on itself.

Thanks guys, was my thoughts as well (lifter). Cam was being junked anyways if stock.

As for the heads, they weren't from the block, I should've opened them up and taken a look as I've had them sitting there for a while. All in all, even with the addt'l head work, cost is still cheaper than new, is like I'm getting all the porting done free just sux to be ready to put it all together and then find things needing done.

Have comp cam chromemolly pushrods too, but somehow they got wet while stored and rusted in a few spots won't be using them as I've got a new set of YT 1.8's going in with BBC cam. Maybe give em to someone who needs 7.0 pushrods.

As for the block/rear cover, I decided to plug the rear oil galley with Balance Shaft removal as so:



is best way IMO. Yes, thats two part epoxy/JB weld!

Nice.

Just be sure to plug the oil galley port that runs to it in the front part of the block and freeze plug where the gear is (I think it's an 1 1/4")...and remove all that crap

3 weeks to get my heads back, but they're back. All new guides, recut valve seats! All new viton seals, pac springs installed, etc. Not going to use the Cometic MLS gaskets, going with Felpro's.

And it took 3 rear crank oil seals (screwed 2 trying with cover on) to get one on right. Had to remove rear cover again, lol, put it in from the back. What a pita! (See pic of failed attempt through rear)



Anyways, installed Overkill's BBC cam too.





On to the double roller!




: )

Here's all the crap that came out of the block from the head bolt holes...



Ready for heads...




Heads on!



Next, Rhodes Lifters, YT 1.8 RR's, LIM... Need to paint the SC before I drop that on though.

I'd drop the motor in before painting the blower...that way you don't scuff it up...get the LIM and everything else on though...makes life a little easier...been there, done that.

As for your PM...sorry for not replying...run that by me again with the block off? For the double roller I had the oil galley port that would normally oil the balance shaft gear tapped and plugged at the machine shop. Then had a freeze plug installed. I also wish I (which is kinda too late on your end) had the lifter valley drilled out for extra cam oiling like the aussie blocks...instead of the two holes the US block do, the Aussie blocks have 6 or 8 holes.

Originally Posted by blueguy

I'd drop the motor in before painting the blower...that way you don't scuff it up...get the LIM and everything else on though...makes life a little easier...been there, done that.

As for your PM...sorry for not replying...run that by me again with the block off? For the double roller I had the oil galley port that would normally oil the balance shaft gear tapped and plugged at the machine shop. Then had a freeze plug installed. I also wish I (which is kinda too late on your end) had the lifter valley drilled out for extra cam oiling like the aussie blocks...instead of the two holes the US block do, the Aussie blocks have 6 or 8 holes.

The PM was just questioning the freeze plug (post #70), I though you meant the front hole where balance shaft bearing was (above timing chain)? My only thought on closing the hole is to keep oil traveling down into the crank/pan rather than maybe going onto top of timing chain. I'm probably over thinking things. Yeah, I've read about opening up the oiling paths, including enlarging crank holes, etc. but I really didn't do anything to bottom end. Just cleaned it up and putting all the goodies on. : )

Yeah, it needs to be plugged...hopefully you had that port tapped and closed inside the opening for it as well.

Wasn't thrilled about the thought of tapping the block and having metal shavings potentially getting in stuff. I did the rear cover option as shown above.

For all the work, I might as well just put the BS back in and let it close the hole (front bearing). Again, although I've not seen this mentioned anywhere else, ie, close that front hole if BS is removed. Is why I've asked : )

Yeah at this point, I'd just toss the BS back in to save yourself the trouble, if anything came up.

Peace of mind, there.

Progress so far...


YT 1.8 RR's and Rhodes Lifters installed, and yes, BS back in too.











LIM ala BillBoost...





SC Cleaned and prepped for paint... Have had good success with Duplicolor High Heat Engine Paint (Ceramic 500*) it goes on very thin and watery, so light coats are a must!





Results... Stripped two bolts, so replaced them all for a few $ and BLING!





Of course, donated 'FREE' engines come with their PIA... Here you can see the first few threads on crank are screwed. Nothing a 3/4"x16 tap didn't fix though!





Because RazeKar... Polished the Elec. WP, lolz





And all together now, except a few missing bolts on front cover, the Balancer Pulley, etc


But, its all good, will take what I need from parts car which needs dismantling now!








: )

Currently on hold as I've been back to work

next up is stripping the parts car for what I need, will take requests when I'm ready to do it, lolz...

On the blower, did you just use silver spray paint, or did you get high temp paint? Also any clear or prep for it?