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So can you guys tell me that the engine was in 100% mechanical health at that point?
Or are you just going to assume the tune magically decided to up and knock one day?
How about suggesting reading the old spark plugs and picking new ones based on how the old ones are burning?
Or is Racecar logic winning here?
agreed....but a few degrees here and there. barring some other issue (which im sure jeremy could have figured out) 5 seems a little much to me
coming from the guy who drives it every day, it sees 2-3* . I hardly ever race it. However it was raced in MI and it did see 5* on the aero. Oddly enough I'm on a 3.5 now vs the 3.4 I was on the day of tuning. It's a mess.
mess....hmmm
All of you babies, STFU and go PM each other sex stories and get out of Dan's thread.
If you have anything really raunchy...send it to Drunkie; he likes that sh1t.
Went and bought AL606 Coppers. Starting to install them, I got to the 5th one and the plug wire ripped. So now the car sits until I get my MSDs in the mail. Quick questions..
1: I need to move my car in the garage, can it run on 5 cylinders for a short time?
2: Where is the fuel filter? I'm going to replace that also.
3: how do you disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and fuel filter with the fuel line quick disconnect tool from AutoZone?
You can run shortly on 5 cyl. Or you can wrap where its ripped in electrical tape for temp fix
I think I will just run on 5 cylinders shortly. I already removed the 5 plug wire. You know the answers to my other 2 questions? Of coarse you do
The fuel filter is on the drivers side, about half way back, around the rockers down there. It's easy, just unbolt and it comes right off. Simple simple simple.
How do you remove the fuel line? Isn't one end a fuel line and the other end bolted?
From the filter? One part of it is bolted in, you use a crescent wrench or a line wrench and hold the filter with one and twist the other end off. If it's rusted badly, twist the filter instead. The other end is just a plastic clip onto the rubber line.
As for the fuel rail and such you mentioned, I've never taken it off with one of those tools, but there's two prongs inside it right there. Do you have the two special orings to replace them there?
neutral push
you work so hard on those muscles, use em
el oh el. this guy is funny^^
limp that bish.
And im guessing i need to pull the Fuel pump relay when the car is running to avoid getting gas everywhere? and i have this tool, im just not sure how to use it on the fuel rail line.
OEM/Fuel line disconnect tool for GM, Ford and Chrysler (25043) | Line Disconnect Tool | AutoZone.com
I neutral pushed the car back to its original spot on the driveway but my driveway is kinda uphill and im lazy so no neutral push again, ill run on 5 cylinders for about 15 seconds. i like 5 cylinders
buddy I wish I could help but I've never used that tool. I'm sorry... in fact, if you figure it out let me know because I found a guy and special ordered the o-rings to go in there so I prevent fire.
However you can pull the relay if you wanna go that route. Or you can just take the cap off the fuel rail and press the needle in and bleed out the gas.
But honestly, I've never done that. To me, you're working with the fuel system, you're gonna get gas everywhere anyway. A little gas spewing everywhere is NOT going to hurt a thing, as long as you're not smoking or driving the car right away of course. I just let fuel spew.
EDIT: But just by looking at the tool, it looks like you just wrap it around the fuel line and push it up in the winged part of the flange or whatever so you can release the lines from the rail.
Brandon,
Your so smart.
How about you just drive 12 hours and do this for me and call it a day, sound good? good
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