Musta been torqued to "ItHurtz" bodybuilder specs ... lol.
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Mannn. That bolt was something wicked. Gorilla spec for sure. Straight up snapped the c-clamp. Godd damn! I pounded it with a sludge till the bones in my arms hurt from the repeated impact. No joke. I was ANGRY. Eventually it gave.
And Yeah. The welding work looks super pro!
A jeep LOL stupid rock auto
Man those fender wells
Looks like she needs a top off on the yellow diy under coating!
Welding work looks great.. Best part of your update is your podunk cinder block jack stand.
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I never really answered your question Scotty. The c-clamp broke when I tried pushing the bolt out. I put a large socket over the bolt head, then a c-clamp end on socket, while other c-clamp end is pressing on the tail of the bolt. I turned and turned the handle, tightening it until the thing just SNAPPED. It was crazy. I couldn’t believe it! LOL
hahaha. Yes. It's very country. That method works so good though! Held up the rear of the red car like that for what... like 1 year? It's withstood all tests! lol
Intercooler is mounted. Fitment was great. Everything aligned just right. Used the old couplers to create rubber spacers. It's mounted so sturdy that it's overkill really. Went from 4 screws, to 9. Got all the clamps on. That bundle of wires is the fog lights wiring. Wires need to be cleaned up but fog lights work now. Except I noticed they were mounted upside down, so that needs a fix. Gave her a double oil change. One the previous weekend, and another just yesterday. The pipe going up from the air filter needs a coupler. The angle is retarded though. I started messing around with the sending unit for the oil temp and pressure because the readings are not accurate. Also got a nasty power steering mess going on. Pump is leaking like a mofo. And water pump is leaking. I ordered a new Delco water pump, and the power steering is gonna come off the red car. It's pretty new.
ive only bent the piss out of a c clamp, changing my torsion bar keys on my 03 gmc. theres a proper tool, but i failed to have one lol
check the rubber return line on the pump, it might be broken right at the pump. save ya from one of them jobs maybe.
Some parts came in the other day so I got to work. I ordered a new water pump, new IAC sensor, new clamps, a 4" blue coupler, and a black 135* coupler. Power steering pump got replaced in the Turbo prix. Took out the pump from the GTP, pulley and all, and installed that. The pump that came out of the Turbo Prix was toast and leaking fluid everywhere. While the Pump was out I cleaned up that armpit as best I could. I was set on replacing the water pump, but after inspecting everything, the pump looked dry, and weeper hole was dry, so I decided to leave it. I attribute all the wetness to the power steering fluid flinging everywhere. I will keep an eye on the water pump though and make sure everything dries up nicely. The oil pressure and oil temp sending unit got cleaned up. The 135* degree coupler worked out great! That coupler is massive. It allowed me to get rid of an extra union right at the air filter. ****ty photos below:
Changed the trans mount on Saturday. Old was shot to shyt. It was even missing a bolt. Haha. I lifted the engine by the pans. When checking clearances before lifting, noticed the turbo plumbing got in the way so Master Cylinder came off, and the STB.
Next on the list is the engine mount which looks to have busted open. Both front LCA's are in dire need of replacement. One of them is factory still. That's some quality right there. A 20year old ball-joint!! LOL. I'm just asking for trouble driving around like that. Also noticed the passenger half-shaft is busted and flinging grease everywhere. :\
I went with a hydraulic mount. Bought a Pioneer brand mount. An original AcDelco mount is like $90! Next most expensive is $25. Why is AcDelco so much more? That's more than just an upcharge for the brand name. Maybe $40, I would understand but $90? What's it made of? LOL
Working on getting the ignition switch out. Everything was going great until I needed a Torx socket! Mother ****ers, I swear. Almost making **** difficult. First time ever EVER needing a torx socket. Anyway, no other tools I have would work, so I ordered a set with case off Amazon for $17. Also, that connector in the 2nd photo, what a ***** that thing was to separate. Almost went ape on it, then remembered it's the "IGNITION"!!, Be Careful, so I played nice... it ended up coming apart just fine.
Instead of stumbling through the PITA process of diagnosing the voltage drop problem (different thread: Voltage Drop and Lights Dim when Coming to a Stop ), I figure I'll make some educated guesses and just throw some parts at it :\ I skipped swapping the alternator and went straight for the ignition switch. This ignition switch wasn't cheap but the symptoms point to that being the problem. There is the voltage dropping, there was the security re-learn I had to do recently, the DIC goes out intermittently, the Aeroforce connected to OBD port goes out intermittently, and most recently the HUD has been flashing some weird MPH numbers onto the windshield.
I should note that the voltage dropping problem had gotten worse recently, and I decided to curb the car until I can get it figured out. I'm afraid that the erratic electricity flowing through the wires will start frying sensors, connections, etc... AND then I'm really fukked.
Are you saying that the ignition may be causing your car to have flashing hud low volts car running and obd2 intermittently going out can be caused by the ignition? I have the same exact symtoms
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Yes. Exactly that. Strange, unexplained, unidentifiable electrically related problems are most often caused by a bad ignition switch... from what I have gathered anyway (years and years of reading GPF, lol). On one side of spectrum the symptoms aren't that bad (like mine), on the extreme side it can turn into headlights flashing, horn honking, hazards going off, cluster failing... all without being touched.
I'm not 100% certain it's the ignition, but it's a good hypothesis. We will find out very soon Good Sir! An ignition switch replacement might be in your near future. Buy some torx sockets! Haha.
lol I have dem torx bits for sure.. how much did yours set you back i don't remember seeing you mention that.. plz report back your findings
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I should have gone to Harbor Freight for those torx sockets, damn it. Forgot about that. The ones from Amazon don't come till tomorrow, so switch should be replaced tomorrow. It's my Birthday on Friday (35yrs), and I took the day off to cruise around so I want this done ASAP!!
The switch is like $65 on RockAuto. With 5% promo code, taxes, shipping, I paid $80. They had the best price. Others wanted $90 to $100+.
When I bought it, I also got some AcDelco Pro front LCA's for this Blue TurdBo. Those will be next. One of those LCA's is still factory. Factory I say!! That's a 20yr old ball joint. Holy smokes.
Orders sockets LMAO, HF, menards, lowes, home depot, advance, autozone, napa, o rielleys and walmart carry those.
Enjoy the passenger side LCA
Thats the one, 20 gallons of lube,impact of living hell, resting the cars entire weight on it, fire, yes I set it on fire, NOTHING got that bolt out. Thats the only thing thats ever defeated me in life. Gave up and put the tire back on, that was 6 years ago LOL.
Lol
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Well shyt. What options does that leave me? Here's what Im thinking. It's hardened steel so drilling it out, while possible, will be a biatch. There's cutting the screw head off with a disk or saw. Cutting it flush with the subfame will be a challange. That would take the pressure off the screw but the shaft will still be jammed in there. Maybe then though, only the bushing will need some massaging and everything frees up.
ya its stuck in the bushing, cutting the lca off right there, then carefully cutting out between the frame would probably be the least blood involved, you can try a 4' breaker bar and see
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