z06 driver needs driver mod. Nice car though. I believe headers can be made to fit but you have to clearance where the dp goes.
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z06 driver needs driver mod. Nice car though. I believe headers can be made to fit but you have to clearance where the dp goes.
There's a "custom" down pipe on it now so if headers will fit I'll make something work by cutting up this one or having something new welded up. I feel a obd2 swap with headers, plugs, and 180* thermostat is a good game plan? Doing a front seat swap, doing some body work, and clutch and maybe some custom mounts to make motor vibrations less as all part of winter plans
If you feel like dealing with the hassle then headers. If not a Plog is worlds better than the factory manifold.
Awesome engine, not so awesome car, but awesome sleeper. Have you had a chance to take it out to dragstrip?
I'd swap to obd2 just to make everything easier on the car.
The firewall near the downpipe area needs to be re-worked, cut up and re-sealed. I don't know if you'll be fighting clearances with the getrag as well but if you can get the headers to fit it would be ideal and in the end cheaper. I don't know if the harness will be so easy on that particular body style, may want to look into that before you drop a lot of coin on harness'.
If it helps, you can see some of the firewall cutting/reworking we did in this build - http://www.grandprixforums.net/proje...ild-27674.html
Love your build man! I'm Puting up on lift when get out of work (supervisor on nights at a factory so hours suck) and put pics an measurements up. I mean if there isn't a way for headers I'll go for plog for sure since still beater then stock. As for the harness, all I'm losing is my time because it's $50 max at jy for the harness and ecu and found perfect donor. I won't go ripping parts or wires from the cavalier before I know for a fact it'll work though.
Txslow6: I personally love this car purely for the sleeper factor which is why I bought it I got the car for less money then anyone would believe and only has 25k on motor and 77 on shell. It's just a toy and I love the thing. Was actually looking at a 3800sc Buick when this came up for sale on local forum
Iforgot to mention big driver behind the obd2 swap. It appears the shop never hooked up the obd port so I couldn't data log with the moated cable I bought so couldn't do what others do with these cavaliers. I like to keep my hands busy on days off so I look forward to the swap
rear mani
down pipe - is the wideband sensor there to close? if so where should i move it measurement wise
crossover
crossover flange
random
did 180* thermostat today, put a optima in, and new starter. Starts no problem and very strong. Next question is how am i looking for clearance? I will have to get a slim fan for a different front mani but i dont think i have any wiggle room in the back. Is there a front and crossover option i shoul look at or just the PLOG? What about spark plugs? Part number and brand? Just want to cover everything needed for making tune safe easier
is that your subaru?
Damn.. I really like that cavi. Haven't seen many in that condition.
Looks really tight in the rear.
Might be better off fabricating headers from scratch.
auto lite 104's gapped at .055" seems to be a crowd pleaser.
Spark plugs, NGK are a good choice for a daily driver because you dont need to change it as often as autolite copper core 103 -104. The NGK TR55 are one heat range colder good for 3.4 pulley plus cold air induction and a colder T-stat 180. Any thing more then those look at getting NGK TR6, the TR55 setup plus a 3.25” supercharger pulley, 1.80:1 or 1.90:1 rocker arms or very mild cam, exhaust headers, cat-back exhaust system, and reprogrammed PCM. Gap at .55 - .57
TR55's are copper core.
Thus last the same.
Well Ill take your word for It, I'v got TR55 Iv never used 103's or 104's. I typed that up using zzp, wbody store, and 3800 performance.
They're copper.
T is the reach/size/thread/gasket. R means resistor, 5 is the heat range, 5 is pregapped to 0.59", and the suffix is the plug type. No suffix is copper core, thus V power, GP is platinum, IX is iridium.
Ring ring schools in session. I only knew about half that haha.
No that's my buddies STI. As for Welding up a custom header I fear in the rear if went bigger would run out of room immediately just like if bought a aftermarket one. It's tight by firewall.
Would I see any gain from getting a crossover pipe that would bolt to stock (does that exist?) and the plog for the front.
Thanks for all the spark plug information everyone! Much appreciated.
As for how far from motor the wideband should be? Any insight? Just want to make sure I get the most accurate reading possible.
I've heard that you want the wb pretty close to the motor.
The is3 cam requires ported heads.
I had the vs with the genV and it was awesome, power all the time but stock like drivability. Cams can be done in the car and the vs doesn't require anything else but it's good to replace the valve springs with it. I've also run the xp cam and I loved that one too.
zeitronix is a very high end brand and will blow an AEM out of the water. Logging with an AEM is garbage. As far as sensor location, if you want to get super technical with it follow this http://www.wbo2.com/lsu/lsuinstal.pdf that is every ounce of WB sensor location info you could ever need, if not just put it back where it was. Being that your existing exhaust setup accommodates stock manifolds well, I would not try to reinvent the wheel with it. A powerlog in the front and a ported stocker in the rear could be the answer for fighting KR. If you want to make more power a cam is the way to go IMO. Especially with a 5 speed, the extra powerband alone would be worth it. I have a Comp "xtreme energy" 76-802-9 in my car, I rev it to 6200 on l92 springs every day for the last 16k miles and it rocks. If you can do LIM gaskets and a timing chain you can change the cam in the car. Maybe its just because I do this stuff at work every day but ive never understood why everyone is so afraid of changing a cam in the car.
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