Thread: A/C Drain line clogged.

I noticed while driving the 06 GP that I just bought a water sloshing sound. That got me to look at the ground where I would expect the condensation line to drain. In this Oklahoma summer, it should have been dripping and it wasn't. I did not find any other posting on this subject in this forum, so I thought I would start one. Maybe when I get to the end I will come back and edit this post with a summary. I will take some pictures as I go.

First finding it was fun. So far all I tried was putting it on ramps, finding it, trying to blow some air through it. I thought I would ping the community to see if there are any tricks. From other sites, looks like it's a small elbo about 3/8". My air had a foot nozzle about 1/8", so there was not a good seal. I might try and tape a small piece of hose to the end to get a better seal. Some other things I found talked about removing the overflow jug, pulling it off, snake out the tube, cutting a slit, clean and put all back together. Cutting the slit in the elbow does not make sense, but I am reserving judgement till I get it in my hand for closer look. I hope I get some time this week before it starts leaking inside. :-(

Found the easiest way to get to it, is to remove the overflow jug, then reach down and the elbow just slips on the drain pipe. I did not see any gunk. I was able to maneuver a 6" 1/4" bolt to try and snake it out. No water came out. Then I got a coat hanger and went as far as I could, still no water. As I pulled out of the garage, I did notice some water, so I thought it was fixed, but I still hear water sloshing. Is there a way for water to get trapped?
TLSelf, could you post some exploded drawings to help get a picture of where else the water could be. Thanks.

your heater core could have air in it it, and thats what your hearing. try flushing the core.

Oh buddy, Mods gonna have a field-day with this. The "How to" section is strictly for write-ups, not for discussion. So expect it to be moved sometime soon.

In answer to one of the questions in your PM. TL is initials for first and middle name, Sheff is last name. Just for online purposes to still give me privacy but usually not taken by others. I always hate those John25661293 and TLSheff is common for most things I do, my "digital Handle" if you will.

Now onto the main topic. Should you have not seen or read this, I would give it a look over, could have some better pics and may apply to what you are dealing with. http://www.grandprixforums.net/water...-fix-6961.html
I suggest this because usually there is very little water condensation built up inside, but this is what the drain is for. If you having alot it would suggest either water is draining down into it (see link above) or there is a leak in heater-core or something else to cause such a build-up.

Now it could just be alot of condensation over time not getting out so here is a exploded view of the AC system. The yellow part is the drain seal, the 90* rubber drop down/hose doesn't show up in the illustration. Still perhaps this will help a little.

Originally Posted by TLSheff

Oh buddy, Mods gonna have a field-day with this. The "How to" section is strictly for write-ups, not for discussion. So expect it to be moved sometime soon.

I did not plan it on being a discussion, I really thought cleaning it would work, then I was going to edit my original post once I figured out the easy way to get there. If they want to move it, then once I get it figured out, I can repost.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

your heater core could have air in it it, and thats what your hearing. try flushing the core.

Thats on my agenda anyway, it still has dex in it. Good and clear, but unknown how long.
I thought in modern cars, water flowed always though the core. I would have thought that would have moved any bubbles out, but this would not be the first time thinking got me in trouble. :-)
I am still deciding on flushing the trans. If it had 60-80 thousand for me would not be an issue, 92,000, kind of scares me. It's clean enough, that I think I going to take a chance. I want to get that done first.

dont take the chance, with a flush, just do the pan drop and filter.

i dont know how, but these cores do get air in them, seen the same i hear water posts a lot, and its almost always air in the core, a core flush fixes it right up. and makes the heat work again, not that you need heat this time of the year. but will want it come winter.

and yes, coolant flows full time to the core, theres no on/off valve like in older cars.

Originally Posted by TLSheff

In answer to one of the questions in your PM. TL is initials for first and middle name, Sheff is last name. Just for online purposes to still give me privacy but usually not taken by others. I always hate those John25661293 and TLSheff is common for most things I do, my "digital Handle" if you will.

I figured that, that is why I asked in a PM, I figured you did not want to share it on the web.

Originally Posted by TLSheff

Now onto the main topic. Should you have not seen or read this, I would give it a look over, could have some better pics and may apply to what you are dealing with. http://www.grandprixforums.net/water...-fix-6961.html

I did read that. I wonder if the 06 comes with that mod already? My car looked like it had the little positioning tab sticking out. I don't have any water in the floor as of yet, just hear a sloshing sound.

Originally Posted by TLSheff

so here is a exploded view of the AC system. The yellow part is the drain seal, the 90* rubber drop down/hose doesn't show up in the illustration. Still perhaps this will help a little.

Yes it helps. Bad news, looks like where it splits and the bolts come from the top, you have to drop it down. To drop it down, you have to disconnect the evaporator. The other thing I see is the tube that protrudes through the firewall, is at the bottom of a little valley. I wonder of something above it is clogging it? Maybe I just pushing it out of the way, then the slope allows it to settle back down.
Anybody any thoughts?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

dont take the chance, with a flush, just do the pan drop and filter.

I hear you. You were on the thread with all the discussion on flushing, so you know my thoughts and FEARS.
it just that if I don't do it, then I will never do it, and my OCD will kill me. These days, a new transmission is cheaper than a funeral. :-)

i look at it like this, if its been serviced its whole life, on time, it would be fine to flush it.

but with unknown history, or knowing its way over due, dont flush it. just do the pan drop. add a shift kits at that time if you want, and then do another service in 50,000 miles. or less if you see the fluid getting dark or if you just beat the hell out of it.


my 97 gmc i had, ( from new) i had it flushed every 30,000 miles, that tranny lasted to 175,000 miles, when it broke, the clutches were fine, a hard part for reverse broke. and i beat the tar out of it, it was a work truck that did around 200 miles a day, around 3,000 a month, and that adds up to around 30,000 or more a year. ( that 175,000 miles happened in 5 years lol) and i snow plowed with it. so regular servicing of the tranny is a good thing in my book.

that was also a oil change a month, tire rotation every other oil change. with 8 lug wheels, it adds up to a lot of work, but better then buying new tires. my tires only lasted 50,000 miles too. so dont rotate then and they are shot at 30,000. and i was running 33x12.5 r16's bfg all terrains tires, at 150 to 170 a tire.