I have used these forums for a lot of information but haven't participated until now.
I created an instructable that has a bit more pictures and fluff, however this is the slimmed down version.
When my 2005 Grand Prix decided to start flashing its high beams when ever it wanted, I discovered I had a defective turn signal switch.
As most people do, I turned to my trusty service manual. "all data"
Much to my Surprise, I discovered a very lacking "take it off, Put it back on" description.
I Googled and Forum hopped searching for a simple "How To" but found nothing specific to my year.
So here starts the fun!
You will need the following.
1. Screwdriver with removable bits
2. 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver
3. T-25
4. Two plastic cards
5. The new combination switch
I bought my switch from RockAuto.com. More Information for ACDELCO D6276C
I opted for the AC Delco switch. I figured the factory switch lasted for 155XXX miles, so why not replace it with with another Delco switch
Now the ratcheting screw driver model I have is old, however the the part number is still valid with Craftsman just the head head slightly changed.
Craftsman 3 pc. Bit Wrench Set, Ratchet Screwdriver - Tools - Hand Tools - Screwdrivers
It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to Disable the Air bag.
Your face is about to spend some close personal time with the steering wheel.
You don't want that system live while you are fiddling around near the air bag.
Locate the Fuse Box under the hood.
The Air Bag Fuse should be listed as SIR.
In my fuse box it was the number 9 fuse.
There should be a fuse puller located in the box.
The fuse puller simply slides over the top of the fuse,
With a firm pinch of the puller and a tug straight back should remove the fuse.
If you are missing a fuse puller a pair of needle nose pliers works too.
It took me a few minutes to figure a way to get it open with out scratching it all up.
Random Cards from my wallet was the answer!
The trick was to use 2 cards
Slide one along the seam while pushing up. It will start to separate.
Go to the second side and do the same.
Once both side are un-clipped you can tug them farther apart, then the fun begins.
I couldn't get a good photo of what to do but it goes something like this.
With the column all the way down you pull the halves apart.
They don't fully come apart at first.
There are 2 clips on the top that are to the left of the hazard switch. These will need to be rocked back and forth to come free.
Once the stubborn clips come up it will wiggle much easier.
Now with your thumbs push from behind the wheel towards the dash, there is a lip that has to clear the wheel.
Once it clears it will come up and off
The whole time you are pulling popping the sides apart you will need to rock the column up and down as you are moving the pieces. If you don't move it, you might end
up just locking one side after unlocking the other.
Now the hardest part is over.
There are only 2 screws holding the switch in one on top and one on the bottom.
The top one is super easy.
The bottom one is where you get to spend that close personal time with your steering wheel.
Take the 90 degree Ratcheting screw driver and go to town.
You can move the column up, to pull the lower shell down
This will let you make 1/2 turns instead of 1/8 turns.
With the bolts out the switch will lift up easy.
Bring the switch up to the gauge cluster to get to the wire harness easier.
One at a time, Simply slide your finger nail under the lock tabs and give a firm tug to the plastic connectors.
Installing the new switch is easy.
It all goes back together the opposite of coming apart.
After plugging in the new switch, place the bottom bolt in the hole and lower it into position.
There is a small spring loaded pin that must be pushed in, inorder for the switch to fully seat.
To make securing the lid faster start in the far right lock then while lowering the lid line up the pen with the hole
Next lock in the far left corner.
Now massage the lip back under the wheel and a small push should re-secure the 2 top clips.
