How to pull an engine: BillBoost Style

**BillBoost37** · 03-25-2013

That is the map sensor. this sensor on the new motor is located behind the charger, directly over the valve cover on near the EGR.
coloring on the wires from old plug to new plug are identical. Match them up and you are set.

**jscgdunn** · 03-27-2013

Thanks will take a look again this weekend.

Best Regards,

Jeff

**jscgdunn** · 04-08-2013

Hi Bill,
We were able to get everything connected. However no start. Everything works except it does not turn over at all. It acts as if the it is in gear when you are trying to start...nothing at the starter. Battery is good. Turns over fine when crossing on solenoid with screwdrive but does not fire. There is fuel pressure.

We did switch the PCM from the impala.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jeff

**BillBoost37** · 04-08-2013

Yup...you switched pcm's. Do a security relearn.

**jscgdunn** · 04-08-2013

We thought it might be something to do with that. I expect the relearn is in the owners manual?

**BillBoost37** · 04-08-2013

See chat as well...

Relearn can be found googling.. it's basically

turn the key to on, not start. Watch security light.. after 10 min it should stop flashing. Off for 10 seconds, back to on for another 10 min.

You do 3 rounds of 10 min on til light is off.. then after the third, you turn off...wait the 10 seconds and start the car (might need a little throttle action)

**jscgdunn** · 04-08-2013

Thanks Bill,
You are awesome! My last engine swap involved a small block chevy. There were about five connections to do; we used to pull the engine in the back yard under a shade tree.

Thanks again

Jeff

**jscgdunn** · 04-08-2013

Thanks again: is there any advantage is using the impala pcm? I thought it might miss the SC?

Jeff

**bigburban** · 04-08-2013

woooo ill be doing this saturday

**BillBoost37** · 04-08-2013

Then it would be helpful to mention:

The monte pcm may be a part number that Regal doesn't like. There's a chart that Darkhorizon posted. Then there's the programming. Monte BCM programming in the pcm likely won't play nice with the Regal parts.

The best way to ensure you do this properly is to account for the right engine and right transmission gearing in the right pcm for the year of the car the stuff is dropped into.

Example, My 2000 Regal GS. When my motor blew, I put an 07 L26 (Naturally Aspirated) Lucerne 3.8L into it. In Tiny tuner, I used a file for a naturally aspirated 2000 Regal and kept my HD transmission 2.93 gear ratio. That was a start. I found that the NA motor being less powerful needed me to tweak the shift settings a little in order to stay in the power band longer. Tweaked the maf etc and it's running very well for the last 8 months.

**jscgdunn** · 04-10-2013

Thanks again Bill.

Car started right up after I switched PCMs back to the original. I had assumed the orginal PCM would miss the SC but the car missed it's PCM more.

Lesson is the original PCM needs to be used; now just to get it tuned for the tranny.

Jeff

**seventone** · 08-13-2013

I took all the pictures I could when I did it BillBoost style. You can find them here

SC 3000 Engine Removal Photos by zero_seven_one | Photobucket

I printed off a checklist and taped it to the window and checked Things off as I went.

Thanks Again!

**camopaint0707** · 08-13-2013

What did you chain the back to on the engine? Also can any more information be had if one is pulling the engine with the transmission?

**camopaint0707** · 08-13-2013

Can any more information be had if one is pulling the engine with the transmission?

**seventone** · 08-13-2013

Originally Posted by camopaint0707

What did you chain the back to on the engine? Also can any more information be had if one is pulling the engine with the transmission?

My engine had a hook near the alternator bracket/heater hose connections

**Bowtie70SS** · 08-18-2013

I have a GTP with a locked up engine. I wonder if it would be easier to pull the engine and trans out the bottom or to drop the oil pan and disconnect the broken rod from the crank?

**camopaint0707** · 08-18-2013

I am pulling the motor to drop the oil pan.

**McFly1999** · 08-19-2013

Originally Posted by Bowtie70SS

I have a GTP with a locked up engine. I wonder if it would be easier to pull the engine and trans out the bottom or to drop the oil pan and disconnect the broken rod from the crank?

Similar situation here. I have a GT with a locked up engine. Since I can't turn the flywheel to get to all the torque converter bolts, I was thinking I could slide the torque converter out with the motor and then pull the whole thing. It requires that I remove all the pullies [to get enough room to slide the engine away from the tranny].

So, Bill... which is the best solution:
1. Remove all pullies/accessories and slide the torque converter out, provided I have a good engine puller that will play nice going perfectly sideways.
2. Drop the oil pan and disconnect the broken rod, provided that the rod won't interfere once disconnected
3. Drop the whole thing out the bottom.

In my situation, I'm ready to go from the top, but the torque converter is still attached.

**BillBoost37** · 08-20-2013

You need to pull the trans too. See the writeup that includes the trans. Camo.. please man, remember the post where I'm not going to click the buttons ofr you.. bingo. If you search on my screen name and "eas y" without the space...you'd find that how to with trans included.

The only car I successfully pulled a TC with a motor was a Bonneville, a big ole 96 Bonneville and I had to lower the subframe to get the HB to move forward far enough. There shouldn't be enough room in a W body from my experience. Do both engine and trans. However, in reality, you need to unlock th emotor to get all the bolts. Best of luck, a new converter may be cheaper than the effort to get the bolts.

**McFly1999** · 08-20-2013

Thank you Bill. As always, you are all the all knowing Grand Prix god.

Link to pull (from the top) engine with transmission included:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-p...top-69453.html

The torque converter cost from where I got my replacement engine is $12, plus $2 core charge. No brainer... except it's a 30min drive each way for me. Question I need to figure out is will it take me more than an hr to remove the oil pan and release whatever has the crank hung. Don't know, but I'll pull the pan off once it's all out, and take a quick look.

Apparently, pulling is recommended rather than dropping. Dropping would require a lift, which I don't have, but you could use the engine puller as a Body Puller and leave the drivetrain as you pull the body. Seems like more work, and worth doing only if you want to remove the subframe and suspension because you need those for some other project.

Good luck... on to my pull...