Thread: How to: Remove an axle

Originally Posted by Burbman

BINGO...I've never had to change an axle so doing it for the first time. I'm changing both because I can't tell which side is bad, the boots look fine, no grease spraying, etc. I was on here and also Googled till my fingers hurt, the symptom of vibrates on acceleration, smooth on coasting, and gets worse accelerating into a right turn. I found a half dozen posts on various forums with that exact symptom, and the cause was the same every time: bad axle, replaced it and vibration went away...but nobody said which side!!

I'll stop overthinking this and dive into it tonight. Will follow your instructions to a tee and post back.

Good. If u run into any problems shoot me or bill a message. I'll have my phone on so I'll see it. I've done these on my car and someone else's and its very easy. I have faith in ur abilities

Sent from my pager using Morse code. ... .. ... ....

I'm usually offline w/o notifications after 3pm.

For what it's worth thought..that's the passenger side. Vibration when slightly taking a left was the left side axle. Hardest part of my instructions is popping the balljoint. It's kinda funny even watching friends that have helped before..it's like they don't hit the side of the BJ quite right.

un bolt the strut. and pop the tir rod. chances are the struts are not slotted and dont have anywhere to go. you can make some marks to make sure its back where it started as well.

Burb, while you are buying tools. Here's a few you'll want to ensure that you have if you are going to work on a GM 3800 vehicle.

10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 18mm, ensure you have deep sockets and wrenches both.
3/8", 19mm deep sockets only.
7mm nutdriver
Med phillips and med flat blade screwdrivers

When I say socket, I'm talking 6 point only. With that stuff, you can almost completely disassemble your car.

Turn the wheels in the direction of the side you want to work on. Poof... perfect access. Extra work is just extra work.

No 18 must be one of the craftsman sets where they felt it was important to make you buy the key wrenches seperately. Yes..I have had that.

Get the clamp tool, you'll love it.

i would only use them pickel fork on parts your going to change, they tent to tear up the boots. a good hit with a hammer will pop the tie rods free. and a long pipe on top of the lca, and then under the car, then someone jumps on the bar, popped ball joint with the boot intact still.

I run napa axles in my car and havent had an issue, but thats not to say your new axle you bought is a bad new part.

If it was me, I would replace the other side aswell, just to see if that one is the cause. Then if the problem is still there, I would get a new one for the drivers side.

Also make sure your motor mounts arent blown out or smashed from age, that can throw off the axle geometry.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

I run napa axles in my car and havent had an issue, but thats not to say your new axle you bought is a bad new part.

If it was me, I would replace the other side aswell, just to see if that one is the cause. Then if the problem is still there, I would get a new one for the drivers side.

Also make sure your motor mounts arent blown out or smashed from age, that can throw off the axle geometry.

I was planning to do both CV shafts but expected after changing the shaft with a known problem (torn boot) to not have a new issue. Engine mounts might be a contributing factor and most likely need to be replaced. I visually checked them today after the test drive but didn't spot anything obviously wrong. With the vibration only starting after installing the new left side CV shaft and only happened under acceleration, not when I'm off the throttle... I'm not inclined to replace the right side CV shaft until this has been resolved. Be it motor mounts that have impacted engine alignment.... or at least not until I've confirmed the inner hub snap ring is actually engaged in the groove on the stub spline (it appeared to snap on pretty easy), or rule out the shaft has a defect, maybe the manufacture simply put the wrong shaft in the box marked for the 99 with a 3.8.

Anyway it works out, I appreciate the reply.

Hmmnm axle could be off, although I'd usually trust a Napa axle more than most. Ensure the axle nut is snugged up and see if the issue seems to happen more when lightly turning left/right.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Hmmnm axle could be off, although I'd usually trust a Napa axle more than most. Ensure the axle nut is snugged up and see if the issue seems to happen more when lightly turning left/right.

Hmmm, should the axle nut torque be 118 ft/lbs for a 99 GP? Vibration was independent of turning, occurring going in a straight line but only while accelerating and pronounced above 40 mph. Thanks again for creating this thread.

EDIT: Gotta add, just got off the phone with NAPA. Was told to bring it in to exchange for another new one. That's almost painless, lol.

Correct the spec is 118 ft lbs, Let us know if the new axle fixes your problem.

its really easiest to take the outer tie rod from the inner. dont move the lock nut so you can put it back the same. or mark the threads with a sharpy. unbolt the struts. 2 bolts. nuts are 22mm, 21mm. i've encountered both. the knuckle can be turned and pushed down this way. dont even have to take rotor or brake off this way. you can get a small pry or claw/ crowbar, and put it in the end of a long pipe to pop the driver axle out. dont even have to bend down or push hard. i use the breaker bar and tap it with hammer against the cup on the pass axle. doesnt have to be hit hard. anything long and skinny works.

the axles sort of clip in place when the lock goes in. you will hear it. it doesnt leak when seated. at least i've never seen one leak tranny fluid.

doing anything trying to take off the knuckle is hard because the road and elements weather the studs (like on outer tie rod) so the nut doesnt want to unthread without heat, torque, and or pb blaster if you are lucky. i just cut them off anymore.