THANK YOU!!! Should be able to finish the job very quickly in the morning!!
Hopefully I didn't damage the part on the drivers side.
|
|
05-01-2015
THANK YOU!!! Should be able to finish the job very quickly in the morning!!
Hopefully I didn't damage the part on the drivers side.
Last edited by firstdue; 05-01-2015 at 08:19 PM.
05-01-2015
Ok, got drivers side complete. Wrestling with getting the passenger one in....1st time it was easy....now it's being stubburn.
Got it!! Everything back together and test drove. Smoothest the car has ever felt.
Can't thank the members here enough for all the great "how to's" and all of the help!! THANK YOU! !
Last edited by firstdue; 05-01-2015 at 11:01 PM.
02-26-2016
If you do an axle and a hub at the same time is there enough wiggle room to get the axle out without dropping the control arm or not?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
02-26-2016
pop the tie rod, then the axle will slide out. less work then popping the ball joint.
02-27-2016
I'm going to try this today. I'm guessing the hub comes out easier with the axle out of the way. Guess I will decide weather to do the tie rod way or the lower ball joint way ones I tear into it and whatever looks easier. Wish me luck.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
02-27-2016
Ended up poping the tie rod and ball joint. Could not get the shaft out with just the tie rod off. Sway bar in the way. Not to tough. Used a cats paw on the bottom and a short screw driver on another lobe to pop what was left of the shaft out of the tranny. the inner boot had given out and gave up all the grease a while ago. Passenger side the same way so I will have to do that when parts arrive.
New parts definitely look better than old parts.
Thanks for the how to.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
02-27-2016
FWIW I wrote the write up and knew what I was doing when I did it. Tested many different ways. Tie rod popping isn't the way to go. Ball joint is the answer. Just sayin.
02-27-2016
This.Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I've done it this way everytime.
02-27-2016
All you'd gain doing a tie rod is ability to turn knuckle. To do an axle..you need to pull it out of the hub. That needs movement, not turning.
02-27-2016
^^^ proved true. Thanks bill!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
08-18-2016
Just shove it in far enough to secure it past that ring, when you can't just tug it out you know you popped it in far enough.
08-18-2016
^^^^this. And once you start losing grease your axle life gets really short. Change it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
04-08-2017
Ok so I don't own a pry bar to take off the balljoint, I already took the rotor and caliper off because the caliper is seized and I'm upgrading the rotor to 12.5 but anyway is there any other way to take the balljoint off?
I took the tie rod end out and the axle doesn't go far enough back to slide out
Last edited by Ryan97Rut; 04-08-2017 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Forgot some info
04-08-2017
floor jack handle works, or you can take the two strut bolts out.
04-08-2017
The stut bolts won't budge, I don't have the proper tool for that, the bolts only have 2 flat sides, so I can't use a socket on them.
I have a 1.5 ft handle and it doesn't really make it move
04-08-2017
get a 2x4 in there then and lean on the lca. then smack the ball joint area of the lca with a hammer. it dont take a lot of pressure on the lca to pop the ball joint free.
04-08-2017
You don't turn those bolts with the two flat slides. Leave the nut on the end and smack it back that way. The bolt itself is splined, so you don't want to turn those flat sided bolts. Just smack and wiggle the knuckle.
Or... find something long that you can keep pressure on to pop the joint. I used to put my feet on my 4 foot or less jack handle that I put in there. Yes..I was laying on the ground to hit the joint with my normal sized feet on the bar to slightly push down on it.
04-08-2017
Thank you guys, I finally got it out, those splined bolts were not easy but they finally gave.
Here is what the inside of the axle looks like
https://ibb.co/eQwCMQ
10-02-2021
I know this is an old thread but did that fix the vibration on acceleration my car is doing that but I don't notice it so much turning it seems to do it straight when going straight but goes away when you let the gas off.
However I also read that a motor mount could cause it and I read one time that control arm bushings can cause it I know the control arm bushings are bad on mine and I know the motor mount at the front of the motor is bad on mine it's leading down that side.
Could control arm bushings and a motor mount also cause that vibration on acceleration? almost feels just like wheel balance.
07-29-2022
l know it's an old thread and all, but l wanted to add, if you're having a time with the splined bolts hammering out, a ball joint press rented/borrowed from advance auto pushes them out quite nicely!
| « Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
| Tags for this Thread |
| Bookmarks |
Bookmarks |
