You there Bill?
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You there Bill?
i would think the length does not matter much, its all about that pivoting, ratchet head, and a snap of the wrist, and it was out, literally in a snap of your finger out, that fast.
Doesn't look like too much fluid coming out of the axle location...Couldn't you just put a catch can under that and insert the new axle ASAP to stop the flow? Then just top off what was lost? I just did the trans service yesterday, not looking forward to doing it again....
Do you typically change the axles seals when you replace the axles?
I changed my axle seals when I replaced mine half shafts. And on my gp very little fluid came out of the shaft. Those seals are only 8 bucks apiece from the dealership so is replace em
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If the seal rips or the metal ring thingy comes off, replace the seal, they normally don't get damaged.
I didn't replace them on mine. And hardly any fluid comes out. If you jack the car up to that whatever side you are doing is higher than the other, it will slow the leak or prevent it.
Fluid coming out depends on how the vehicle is sitting. If you do the passenger end, jack it higher than the drivers and you'll have minium fluid.
Seems like it would be easier to take off the hub bearing and just slide the axle out through the hole. Once it releases from the trans it should fold over at the CV joint so you can back it out of the hub bearing hole and drop it out. The you don't have to F with the ball joint and the tie rod and alignment. Any reason this wouldn't work? maybe not as fast as Bill's write up but I work a little each evening, I'm not a speed guy.
It won't fit like that. I tried it on my gp and it wasn't happening. But it didn't mess my alignment up at all!
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I took out my passenger side cv shaft 4 times in two months trying to solve a leaking seal and got it down to a science
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If you go the ball joint route, you don't unbolt the tie rod, just swing the knuckle over and puch the cv shaft out. Then just install new one and no need for an alingment.
Also you can take the 2 strut bolts out too and pull the knuckle down to slide the axle out. If your struts have never had camber bolts or been rounded for camber adjustments. I did it that way on my sisters car, didnt even mess with the camber, and even if it did, its such a small amount ( .1 - .2 ) that I wouldnt even worry about it.
OK thanks guys. It's up on stands with wheels, calipers, rotors and axle nuts off, picking up the axles today. Was looking at it last night and I wasn't seeing how just popping the ball joint would allow the control arm to move enough to let the axle out. I'm sure it will get a little clearer when I dig into it tonite. Figured I may as well ro the motor mount and trans mount while I'm in there, '01 with 146k miles.
Burbster, why did you pull the rotors and calipers? Oh..right you were aiming for the wheel bearing route. Since you've lived up this way before, this will probably make you smile. Most of the time the hubs have crusted up in the aluminum knuckle and that makes taking the bearing out a bearing replacement exercise. You pull the bearing and the abs ring and back of the bearing stay in the knuckle. In the process of yanking that out..you trash it.
Cam when you pull the knuckle bolts, you mess with alignment.
I dunno....looked like they would be in the way? Was trying to do a little pre-work in advance of picking up the axles. The caliper cage is only 2 bolts and the rotor came right off, so not a lot of extra work. I just changed the RF hub bearing, like 2 weeks ago. Surprisingly, one little tap on the left side axle and it broke free of the axle splines. I noted that when I took out the old hub bearing there was grease or anti-seize on the axle splines...looks like a good trick to make replacing the hub that much easier when it fails.
I work slow, if I did this for a living I would be one sorry broke-a$$ dude.
Also thinking I can take some flat stock, weld up something like this to use with my slide hammer:
3 pieces of flat stock welded in a U shape with a nut welded on the end, looks pretty simple.
Yea its really not that hard of a job. If u go to replacing the drivers side one its a little more difficult to pop out of the transmission. And get back in. When I did mine I removed the two strut bolts and not the lower ball joint and it worked fine for me. Just be careful putting new shaft into the transmission that u don't damage the shaft seal.
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First off, to set the stage, I'm nearly 41 and don't do this for a living. It's literally a hobby that spiraled out of control because I had the tools and garage.
You doing the driver or passenger side? If you use that tool and a slide hammer on the paasenger side, you are making it harder on yourself. Crawl under and whack it from behind. It's super super eaaaassssy.
On the brakes and caliper.. if you are slow, then it was an extra however long that can be avoided. I'm trying to help you finish sooner. Then..FWIW, if you find a step missing from one of my write up's, please say so. Cause a guy that lists socket size etc etc thinks he's got all the steps,. If one is missing..I need to add it.
I think he wishes it was a little easier, like you said ...it's cake once you've practiced it about 10 times.
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