This writeup on Replacing the Rack and Pinion on 04+ has been added to the How To section and can be found HERE.
|
This writeup on Replacing the Rack and Pinion on 04+ has been added to the How To section and can be found HERE.
Last edited by UR LOSN; 04-06-2008 at 05:22 AM.
And I was so hoping to see some pictures of you covered in power steering fluid.
Great work bud. This definitely needs to make its way into the How To section. Would it be safe to assume that its best to have the steering wheel locked into position? Also, would this be a good time to replace that intermediate shaft, or should that be left alone unless its actually bad?
well the 04+ the shaft was known to have worn in a bit. Gm had a "quick fix" a squeeze bottle of grease.... we had done this to FastKatts car a few months ago...fixed it for a little while..but it came back.
the steering wheel can be locked...it only slides on the rack one way. as there is a flat spot.
it would be a good time to replace it as all you would have to do is pull back the cover under the steering column from the inside of the car, and remove the nut(first), and then slide out the locking bolt. the bolt does NOT turn...only the nut.
then the shaft just slides out.
for some odd reason, I didnt get that dirty(just hands). Billy ended up taking the passenger side(he has a leaking CV boot). needless to say, he got quite dirty!!!!
LOL!!!
sory for no pics, my parents didnt want my dirty hands even coming close to their cameras..lol wonder why....
This may be a stupid question. What is the benifit of the newer 04+ steering rack. Does it have a better ratio. If so would it make a huge difference in the car.
Thats a good question. Is there a difference in the 04+ from the 97-03 that would make it an upgrade?
the 04+ have electronic magna steer. This was just a repair as FastKatt's original rack failed.
this was not an upgrade.....
On mine, it became almost impossible to turn to the left, but turning right was normal
I assume it's not the same all the time...
My guess, some people it would just be impossible to turn at all...
Is this the same removal as for the 1998 Grand Prix?
Should I be concerned if my wheel won't "lock"? With the key in the lock position I can still turn the wheel side to side all the way.
And good to know about the magna-steer. I had an error pop up on the DIC that said service steering and when it didn't work it was one hell of a difference. Next time I started the car the error was gone and it's been good from then on.
link no longer works
Yeah, anyone have an updated link for this rack replacement write-up? I see this project being necessary for my 2005 in the very near future.
I don't have a write up...but check me out.
Jack and support car (usually at factory jacking locations right behind front wheels.
Remove both wheels
Remove the nuts holding the tie rods to knuckles and free tie rods from knuckles
Ensure steering wheel is straight and can not turn
Lift rubber boot on top of rack and unbolt the 11mm holding the telescoping shaft to the rack. Wiggle it free
Lower rear of subframe about 2-3 inches and support at that height
Disconnect the two ps pump lines at the rack
Remove two bolts holding rack to subframe
Slide rack out the wheel well and reverse for installation.
Once completed, start car and fill ps res.
Turn wheel a few times in both directions an allow system to bleed air out.
Repeat with fluid/turning and sitting until system is at the correct level and not making noise.
Thanks Bill! I have done the complete steering system on my lifted GMC Sonoma ZR-2, so I feel a little weird being intimidated by the tight quarters that I have to work in for getting at this rack (and probably the power steering pump while I'm at it).
Last edited by mudhunter; 01-10-2012 at 02:04 PM.
When you lower the back of the cradle 2-3 inches, it won't seem so tight or cramped. BTW, if you are considering change the sway bar or the center bushings, it's a perfect time to get at the bolts for the center bushings.
Thanks for the tip on lowering the subframe. . .I think that will help me out. . .and the part about the 11mm bolt inside the rubber boot, although moving that boot around is a PITA!!!
Thanks Bill for the R&R on the Rack, I have not found anything on the forum about replacing the seals. Has anyone tried it? I see seals listed as a part in parts store. My GM buddy said when he was in school they did not go into the rack, just replaced it. Is this kind of like rebuilding master cylinders today, vs back when I did it in the 80's? Anyone any thoughts?
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |