Thread: My Junkyard Engine/Transmission Removal Method

Well, I've had several people ask me about this, so I figured I'd finally spill the beans and hopefully this will help someone out.


First off, I'm sure I'll miss things on the first post so I'll be updating as I go. Also, if you have any modifications or suggestions, please comment and I'll be happy to add/modify things!


As far as pictures, I'll be going to the junkyard in a few weeks to pull and engine so I'll take detailed pictures then.


All in all, I've pulled several engines in about than 30 minutes using this method. Before I start though, I unfortunately have to preface that I am in no way responsible for you hurting yourself, others, property, or your firstborn child as most of this method is extremely risky if you don't know what you're doing or don't keep your wits (and fingers) about you.


See below this list if you just need the transmission


RED is for those wanting to pull the transmission too


1. Go to the next door car trunk and grab the spare tire cover (or two) and lay them under the car you want to rip the heart out of
2. Get under there and use that 10mm ratchet to remove the transmission inspection plate cover
3. Use a screw driver to "pry" the flywheel and turn the flex plate until you see the first torque converter bolt, from there repeat until you remove all three (18mm)
4. Right by the cover, use a pick to remove the transmission cooler line clips and simply pull them to remove the lines (careful they will drip)
5. use a long extension and 13mm on an impact (recommended but not required) on the passenger side to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the differential housing cover.
6. easiest way to do this is to climb on top of the engine and use a deep 13mm socket to remove the two remaining bolts to the bracket attaching the engine to the transmission. You won't be able to see them, but you should be able to feel them. Some people prefer doing this through the wheel well, but there's so much in the way, I find it easier to reach from above.
7. While you're up there, remove the upper radiator hose (or if you don't care or are in a hurry like me, just cut it)
8. Remove or cut the lower radiator hose
9. Remove or cut the fuel lines
10. Remove the coolant overflow bottle (on later models where it's by the belt)
11. Cut or remove the drive belt (15mm counterclockwise on tensioner if you care)
12. You can ignore this step and just cut these lines when you pull the engine, but I usually do it this way: using a thin wall deep socket 13mm remove both power steering pump bolts at 12 and 6 o'clock and either pull it up and strap it to the side out of the way, or my favorite, just cut the lines.
13. Remove the 15mm bolts from the upper engine mounts and remove the dog bones.
14. If you care about the wire harness, spend the next few minutes unplugging the maf, tps, map, iat, fuel injectors, egr, etc. sensors to remove the wire harness, or as I usually do, Just cut the big bundle of wires coming from the middle of the fans to the engine, and the rear going down to the bank 2 o2 sensor, (for transmission folks, cut the bundle going the transmission stuff too).
15. This is a tricky step, use the longest extension you can imagine with double swivels on each end with a 18mm socket and carefully thread it from the passenger wheel well to the bellhousing bolt right where the power steering pump was under the exhaust manifold between the engine and transmission (a very bright head-light really helps here) and using a very long breaker bar or if your impact is strong enough, remove this bolt (I usually start it with a breaker and remove quickly with the impact)
16. Remove the Air box assembly (if you need help with this, stop reading and find something else to do....)
17. Optional, but it's usually so quick I do it anyhow: Using an extension remove the exhaust crossover pipe using a 13mm deep socket (rear has a cover then the bolts). You can remove the throttle body if you wish, but you really don't have to.
18. Loosen but don't remove the bell-housing bolts
19. under the car, using a wrench and ratchet, remove the ground bolt connected from the bellhousing to the starter wire
20. Remove the two bolts securing the starter to the engine 15mm? and either cut or remove the remaining wires going to it and remove.
21. remove the upper engine (/transmission mount bolts if you're removing the transmission)
22. Go to any car and pull the seat belt out as far as it'll go and cut it closest to where it comes out and cut the far end and remove the clip (you'll use these to lift the engine
23. Tie these around both lift loops in front and rear of engine together in the center for clipping to the lift.
24. Remove the throttle body cables if the throttle body is still on
25. If you haven't already, disconnect or cut the evap line
26. Place the engine lift in place and hook up and put tension on the straps
27. Oh, if you care about the axles, remove them. I'm not detailing it here because I don't care about them...
28. Remove the bellhousing bolts we loosened earlier
29. Using a long breaker bar 18mm loosen the four subframe bolts (on 04+ you have some "extra" brackets on the front)
30. I cannot stress safety on this step enough!!!! I prefer using an impact with a swivel so I can keep everything out of the way, but remove the rear subframe bolts and then the front. That last one might drop the subframe a foot or so so be careful!
31. As you've noticed, the subframe is still attached because of the struts. Now CAREFULLY remove the six strut tower bolts and the subframe will drop to the ground, hopefully breaking the cv joint with it.
32. If you don't care about the transmission, Carefully use something long to "kick" the transmission off the engine.
33. Gently lower the engine/transmission near the ground and use a pry bar to pry the transmission off the engine (we'll come back for it)
34. Pull the engine up and out! Sweet success!
35. wrap another set of "straps" around the transmission and just lift out.


For those just wanting to pull the transmission, perform steps 1-6, 10-12, last part of 14, 15-21, 22-23 and 26 isn't expressly required, but I recommend it for safety, 27-32 and just drag it out like a greased pig!


As a note, there is another method that I've used on occasion when I really don't care about any of the accessories, is to essentially do 1-4, 13, 16-21, 29-31, to drop the transmission and engine to the ground, then separate the transmission from the engine on the ground and remove. This method is EXTREMELY dangerous, and I only use it if I can't get access to a lift and need the transmission (engine is too heavy to "slide out" without a LOT of help), but it works so I'm mentioning it!

I've removed a lot of stuff in yards and in a garage. I don't see your method being 30 min if someone is following your steps.

If you want a trans or engine out in 30 min through the top.
Cut fuel lines, coolant hoses, trans lines, ps lines and wiring harness going to engine plus O2 wiring going to cat at back of engine
Unhook TB cables if the car is not drive by wire
Remove two bolts holding trans cable bracket and pop cable off trans
Remove two nuts off motor mount under subframe and two nuts off trans mount on the top of the mount.
Unbolt AC and push it onto the subframe (or cut the hoses..but this is freon and you don't want it on you)
Unbolt two bolts from downpipe to rear engine manifold
Pull coolant overflow bottle and front engine upper mounts
Lift out

If you don't want trans..not it's easy to take off as all bolts are easy to get to.


Also.. maybe I missed it, I didn't see the trans to engine mount being taken off in your steps.

torque converter bolts are 18 mm btw.

FWIW...trust me when I tell you I have also done tons and your method has a bunch of extra steps even with impact.. 30 minutes alone? Doesn't feel like it's doable. By leaving the subframe in, you only need the crane for almost no time because by the time you are ready.. all you do is lift. Additionally, you don't need to break any axles. simply cut the inner boot clamp and the axle will slide right out. Convenient because the inner shaft cup works as a nice plug to keep the trans from leaking.

Fastest removal I did in a jy was on a car that had rolled. The bellhousing was broken as was the lower engine mount and ac bracket. Undid the ps pump, engine to diff bracket , dog bones and lifted.

I think you've done it enough times.

Scotty will chime in.. as I'm calling him out. He pulled into the garage and 4 hours later he had a different transmission and was driving home. That included (his words) stopping for the guys picking up the wood etc and test drive. That's a pretty quick spin around for a trans swap.

its all true.

Luckily people can use that haynes as a heat source while they burn it. It's that good. There are so many how to's on the site. Want to find them? search my name and Eas y without the space.

I think all of them add. It's always good to be open to reading a different way etc. Who know when we find some easier method or quicker way to do something.

Pictures in a JY.. doubtful. It's enough of a pain to get them in a garage. Honestly doing pictures while working takes tons of time.