Thread: break line

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  1. #1 break line 
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    today on my lunch all of sudden i had like no breaks!! pedal would go all the way to the floor board only slowing the car down very little....

    was close to home so i went there.. pumped the breaks a few times in my driveway and noticed a leak right by the fuel filter. could it just be a bad break line???
    also i was just out there checking it again, you can hear a swoosh sound every time you apply the break..

    is there anything else that would cause it...??!!


    THANKX
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  2. #2 Re: break line 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you ran the master dry, so that kinda sucks to re bleed, but yes, you blew a brake line. you can cut out the old busted line, or take more to remove more rusted line.

    theres two ways, one is to use a double flair tool and use line nuts and unions to joint the new to old line.

    and the other is to use compression fittings.

    to bledd the master, fill its res up with new fluid, then if you know how to bleed brakes, have some one pump the brake pedal, hold it then you crack the line nut to the master to let it leak the air out, the pedal pushers foot hits the floor, you lock the nut up before he lift his foot. then he pumpps th epedal back up and you crack the line. do this till you dont hear air spitting out any more. repeat for the other line.

    then do the same for each wheel caliper to get the rest of the air out of the lines. watch and fill the res on the master as needed. if it goes dry, you have to start all over with bleeding the master again.

    do all this after the line is repaired.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: break line 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Once the master is done with bleeding, I like to open each bleeder on the caliper and let them all gravity bleed for 5 minutes first, top the master as needed then close them all and do each caliper be themselves. Start with a RR, LR, RF and LF.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  4. #4 Re: break line 
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    have fun trying to fix that. Bleeding brakes is the worse
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  5. #5 Re: break line 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    since when? maybe if you dont know what your doing. its rather simple.

    hell i made a one man bleeder so i can do it solo with no help at all.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: break line 
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    well, at work we just installed a wilwood kit onto a mustang and bleeding brakes that have never been filled before is awful trying to get all the air out, one little microscopic leak ruins everything
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  7. #7 Re: break line 
    GrandPrix Junkie HighOctaneRacing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camopaint0707 View Post
    have fun trying to fix that. Bleeding brakes is the worse
    You should not be near a car then........
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  8. #8 Re: break line 
    GrandPrix Junkie HighOctaneRacing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    since when? maybe if you dont know what your doing. its rather simple.

    hell i made a one man bleeder so i can do it solo with no help at all.

    1 man bleeders are bad ass and so are speed bleeder screws
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  9. #9 Re: break line 
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    Quote Originally Posted by highoctaneracing View Post
    You should not be near a car then........
    saying bleeding brakes is the worse is an opinion asshole
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  10. #10 Re: break line 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camopaint0707 View Post
    well, at work we just installed a wilwood kit onto a mustang and bleeding brakes that have never been filled before is awful trying to get all the air out, one little microscopic leak ruins everything
    no its not, it just takes time to fill every thing. lol silly. OP dont listen to this guy, have at it. ive blown a rear line my self, had it all fixed and bled in like a hour, in the dead of winter too. and i had to run a 5 foot line across the rear of the car too.

    key thing, cut the lines in a place that is easy to work in, so you can cut easily, and flair or use them compression fittings and turn a wrench easy. removing old rusted line is not a bad thing. so cut back to solid looking line.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: break line 
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    well we are doing this on a 1969 ford mustang with an 04 motor and trans and a ford 9 inch rear. There aren't exactly parts made for this.
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  12. #12 Re: break line 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    all that has zero to do with bleeding the brakes. brakes are fing brakes, they all work the same way, since the 60's and up, maybe further back then that.

    4 wheel drums were all the rave back then lol ever do drum brakes? those are fun if your scared of em. looks like a crab trap inside there lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  13. #13 Re: break line 
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    whatevs, just my opinion, it's not wrong, it's an opinion
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  14. #14 Re: break line 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    your opinion is yours, and its weak. sorry. we are not here discourage people from working on their car, but rather help them get through it. dont be such a negative Nancy.......

    brakes are so easy its not funny.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  15. #15 Re: break line 
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    Quote Originally Posted by camopaint0707 View Post
    saying bleeding brakes is the worse is an opinion asshole
    Oh the hostility
    Quote Originally Posted by theaceofspades View Post
    I now own a stance car parts I just like them DICKS
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  16. #16 Re: break line 
    I live here. theaceofspades's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    your opinion is yours, and its weak. sorry. we are not here discourage people from working on their car, but rather help them get through it. dont be such a negative Nancy.......

    brakes are so easy its not funny.
    ^this! Probably were I get the gumption to talk most of my problems because these are a great group of people and there is always someone on here to answer questions
    Quote Originally Posted by theaceofspades View Post
    I now own a stance car parts I just like them DICKS
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  17. #17 Re: break line 
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    Scottydoggs, THANK YOU! So each wheel needs to be removed to bleed them all?? I put a drip pan under the leak, there's a good amount of fluid in there now..
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  18. #18 Re: break line 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    yeah i meant to tell you to do that as the lines will gravity bleed dry with the line blown lower then the master.

    yes each wheel need to come off, theres a bleeder valve on the side top part of the caliper.

    you need two people to bled the master off the lines, but this will work for the rest easy as pie.


    zip ties on the clear line is not needed if they are snug fitting.


    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  19. #19 Re: break line 
    GTP Level Member Impala131's Avatar
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    Please, do not use compression fittings. Compressions fittings are not intended to hold up under high pressure and could blow off when you are really slamming the brakes (and need them most).

    I know there are rednecks all over the internet that will tell you that compression fittings are okay, and nobody they know has ever had a problem, etc... but it's not worth the risk to save a little bit of time. People can die from hack jobs on brakes.


    Use flares and unions, or better yet, replace the whole line since it's probably pretty badly rusted in several places. And bleeding the brakes isn't bad, just time consuming.
    2003 Grand Prix GTP.... the journey begins again....
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  20. #20 Re: break line 
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    Quote Originally Posted by camopaint0707 View Post
    saying bleeding brakes is the worse is an opinion asshole
    Wanted to respond to your dumb ****ing response but I knew to wait because I was sure you were going to make yourself look like the asshole. Karmas a b!tch, b!tch!
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